94 mark electrical problems lost half the cars systems

94markinterceptor

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Okay here's my problem I was at the tire store and got a pair of tires on the back (I think we all know why lol) anyways I forgot to turn the air ride back on and the message center let me know so I got out and turned it on (the car was running) got back in the car and the message center was off and the fuel gauge is standing strait up. I also lost all back brakes (as per the nice people:rolleyes: at nj DMV inspection station) not weak or uneven but none at all(e brake holds fine)...... now i have checked all fuses with a meter that I can find and my main ground strap (battery to chasis) Is there some other common link between the brakes the fuel gauge and message center that i'm missing:confused: ohhh yeah the air ride works. If anyone has any ideas please let me know I only have 30 days left on my rejected inspection sticker and I need this car to be legal again.
 
Is there some other common link between the brakes the fuel gauge and message center that i'm missing.

Charging System is the only "common" item.
ABS pump is run off the charging system
Fuel guage is also electric
Message center is also electric.

the only common thread between the three is the electrical system.

On the very electrical loaded mark 8 the most minor of charging problems can wreak havoc with the on board systems.
Could be bad battery, could be bad alternator, could be a combination of both which is VERY VERY COMMON.

weak alternator takes out the battery, weak battery takes out the alternator, which is why they always say "Charge the battery" before installing new alternator.

That is how "on the edge" the electrical system is "loaded".

nothing that happened during the tire change contributed to this, unless they left the key on and ran your battery down..and that in turn wounded the alternator.

I'd have both the alternator and the battery tested.
 
update

today on the way home the airbag light started to flash a code 12 which from what i could find means low battery voltage so saturday i will have the battery load tested and get the alternator bench tested at advanced it very well could be either or with my luck both the car sat for two years before i bought it (for $400) due to a $2.10 o-ring for the compressor drier
 
Might just be a bad battery, stick with the stock alternator unless it's absolutely junk.
The OEM's are better than the aftermarkets.

if it's just "borderline" keep it.
 
update electrical better brakes still confusing the hell out of me

okay today i did some digging and found some bad wires behind the fuse panel in the dash so as far as i can tell most of my electrical problems seem to be all better ;) (except the @#$%^&* stereo it comes on but nothing comes out i got an amp bypass harness out of a mark vii at the junk yard it just connects the speaker wires at the amp without having to cut up the factory harnesses and still nothing but thats not a problem at the moment) the rear brakes still arent working (the only way i can tell is the nose still dives on even normal braking) if anyone knows how to test the abs system without a $600 tool please let me know im gonna try to make a rig to put in line with a gauge to check pressure does anybody know what range (max psi) the brake system on this car should be.

:confused: FYI the rear brakes do work in the form of the traction control it was raining tonight on the way home and as i took off around a corner i could feel them working to try to stop the wheels from spinning
 
the traction control is operated by the ABS pump.

sounds like you have a mastercylinder issue if the traction control works, but your rear brakes dont work via the brake pedal
 
okay ill get a master cylinder off my donor (a mint 1994 mark that was rearended its only got 65k on it and over the last three weeks im the only one who has touched it ) at the junk yard and give it a try any thing tricky about bleeding the brakes on this car ive never delt with bleeding abs brakes before the abs module :give
 

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