the DCCV short term while a replacement is on order. Its 96 degrees out and my DCCV took a crap. Once i get the new one i will have it installed asap, but for now is there a way to plug/block/cutoff the coolant hose that goes to the DCCV itself. Mine is unfortunately stuck in the fry your nuts off position and i figured even though the valve is stuck i could somehow stop the flow of coolant to the DCCV valve itself. Make sense? Any sort of plug that could be inserted and secured on the hose supplying the hot coolant?
Anyone know how to disengage or block off ..
- Thread starter Fla02LS
- Start date
Why not turn off the climate control and drive with the windows down?
CrackerJack
Dedicated LVC Member
+1
The AC eats fuels and power, if it's above 75f Im rollin with the windows downnnn
The AC eats fuels and power, if it's above 75f Im rollin with the windows downnnn
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Disconnecting the DCCV electrically will not help. The valves default to the full open position without power applied. Pinch the hose off. Running the AC doesn't reduce mileage anymore than rolling the windows down does.
I have been driving with the windows down, no other choice since the a/c systems literally blows fire out the drivers side vents, but even with the windows down the record 96 degree heat and sun here in Florida it stills gets unbearable. I noticed a few hoses and wanted to make sure i have the correct one. There is one hose that goes from a plastic "t" on the upper radiator hose, that hose goes directly to the dccv. Then there are two coming off the dccv that i am guesing go to the left/right side heater core. There is a return coming from the heater core but i dont see the point in clamping that one since the heat has already gone thru the core.
One other concern, is clamping down one of these hoses with vise grips gonna cause any other clamp or connection to break loose? Dont know how much pressure that would cause to build up. I was thinking when the dccv is working correctly and the a/c is on 60 degrees then it should be internally blocking any coolant from flowing which would be the same a pair of vise grips.
Just trying to make it a few more days till the part arrives.
One other concern, is clamping down one of these hoses with vise grips gonna cause any other clamp or connection to break loose? Dont know how much pressure that would cause to build up. I was thinking when the dccv is working correctly and the a/c is on 60 degrees then it should be internally blocking any coolant from flowing which would be the same a pair of vise grips.
Just trying to make it a few more days till the part arrives.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
No, that is the correct hose to clamp down on. Blocking that hose keeps you from having to block the two incoming hoses. The heat won't get to the heater core because you will have stopped the coolant from circulating. (Water can't flow in if it can't flow back out.) You won't be increasing the pressure anywhere, the system is designed for coolant flow to the heater core to be blocked when not needed. Just pinch the hose in the middle, away from any of the couplings. I promise this will work.
Joe, my upper right (closest to the engine) hose is leaking at the DCCV. I believe the nipple may be cracked at the unit. It produces a drip about every three seconds. Is this the hose I would need to block to keep coolant from entering the valve? I will need to drive the car about 3-5 miles to and from the body shop and don't want to leak too much coolant.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Since you have a leak, you would have to pinch off all three hoses, as the coolant would just back feed the leak otherwise. Also, I think that it would be very hard to pinch the hoses off enough to prevent a few drops from getting past. (A minor flow of coolant through the heater core wouldn't overcome the AC, so it is still a solution for that.)
I think that at the leak rate you describe, you should be able to drive a few miles to get it fixed.
As always Joe, THANKS for your help. I will need to drive it to and from the body shop before I can get the valve and replace it. Unless I can't get the bumper replaced by Friday then I will just take it to FFF as is. It ain't purdy, but it is totally driveable!