Fuel Pump

Oh crap.. I'm beginning to understand ABE!

*hangs head in dismay*

KK: he's talking about when he starts his car it's taking longer and longer to crank.

I doubt it's fuel pump related, actually.
 
Has anyone installed a Walbro with out the rubber insolater? Also, Has anyone installed this with out dremelling or cutting the fuel bump housing support, I remember I wedged the walbro in there, and it fit, but it was a tight fit. I'm thinking something is funky with my pump install. Still having the issues with the car taking longer than normal to crank. I think my hp problems may be directly related.

-Waiting on the fuel pressure guage still.

I have read on some other posts, that the walbro high output/pressure may damage/will require to run a different fuel pressure regulator? Is this correct. I've had the stock one in for little over 8 months now, i've pulled off the vac line twice and never smelled gas FTW
 
So you want us to guess at what your fuel pressure is... HMMM.... my internet magic 8 ball says 33.75.... How about you wait till you have the gauge and come back and tell us a pressure and we can go form there.
 
Did some reading on other sites, that walbros are known to not hold line pressure. That the anti check valve something or other frequently go bad resulting in longer cranks. This explains why it takes longer to crank cold. Yes KK I know I don't have the guage that's why I explained it hasn't come yet.
 
Why are you asking for help when we are just going to need to wait for you to get a pressure reading anyways?????????????????
 
If it takes longer to crank and you suspect it's not holding fuel pressure in the line, turn the key to the on for a few seconds to let the pump build up pressure before you start cranking. If it starts right away after trying this, yeah, it's losing pressure...
 
Ok 32 psi at idle, turn key on spike 42 psi but does not hold pressure in the line once the fuel bump cyles on... It goes right back to Zero. With the fpr vac line off car at idle 42 psi.
 
Now we have some real info... Definitely sounds like something is leaking down in the system very quickly....

Could you get a reading at wot under load (driving) with the vacumm line on the FPR.... This will help to know if your car actually is getting enough fuel.
 
I've read that some of the walboros dont hold pressure in the lines while the car is off due to safety reasons or something? NHRA possibly?
 
Abe you might want to check that rubber inlet where the sock attaches

if you didn't remove one of the two fingers on the bottom of the bracket you could have sliced that rubber tube.

my 255 walboro wouldn't hold pressure after shutting the motor off, but it never gave me any hard start or long cranking issues.
 
its not that long, its only on cold starts. Ice cold starts, it'll take about 4-5secs with me watching the guage. I'm getting good fuel pressure all around when the cars on. I'll watching the fuel pressure build up to about 20 ish and then itll come on full going to the normal 31-32 at idle.

But as soon as I prime it, it'll spike to 41 psi ish, then immidiately not hold pressure and go back to zero. If its warmed up it'll start up though, but it takes a 2 secs usually. Before it would instantly start up.

It's probably the check valve in the fuel pump, because if im getting good FP regardless.
 
Abe you might want to check that rubber inlet where the sock attaches

if you didn't remove one of the two fingers on the bottom of the bracket you could have sliced that rubber tube.

my 255 walboro wouldn't hold pressure after shutting the motor off, but it never gave me any hard start or long cranking issues.

Yea, it's worth checking out. But if I have to tear that fuel pump out again, im just going to have it replaced with another unit. I think I have a year warranty on it.

From what I gather the check valve is an internal part of the fuel pump. Guess they're not made that well. Everything looked fine when I installed it. I did wedge it between the fingers but I bent the bottom bracket a bit so it would fit snug. I did forcibly do anything that would cause damage.
 
never heard of no safety bs. sounds like a bad check valve in the pump, or a leak somewhere.

+1 but this wouldn't be the reason for less then expected performence though, because im still getting the correct fuel pressure in the rail at wot above 3000> right?

its just the fuel system doesn't hold pressure while the pump isn't pumping
 
You have more than adequette fule pressure.... 40's at WOT under load means everything is working Aok!
 

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