New 3.58 Gears?

Lucky_Ls

Lucky_Ls

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I'm planning on using some of the money I get back on my tax return on my LS's performance. So I’ve been researching the 3.58 gear swap in the search function. One conclusion that was made is that I should go NEW 3.58 gears. Now here’s my question. I get the whole first production run LS’s had 3.58 (2-99 - 6-99 early 2000 LS's have the 3.58) and that 2003+ V8's have the 3.58 and also 2002+ T-birds have the 3.58 (Axle tag number: 556B - 3.58). I’ve seen some of you have used the 02 T-bird pumpkin with the 3.58 gears but what parts did you replace? Is replacing the ring and pinion gear a must? Please help, this is some that I’m really looking forward to having done and I want as much feed back as possible.
 
You can fit the 3.58's into your existing pumpkin. Might as well do a locking diff too while you're in there. I have a locking diff just waiting to be put in. All materials are sitting, waiting, for me to get my hands on a dial indicator.
 
I didn't know I could fit the 3.58 gears into my stock 554B diff?:confused: Well do I just order the gears and the carrier?
Also, with getting the limited slip is it still a nice ride? My LS is my daily driver and traveler as well.
 
That's what I was told. The information given to me is if you are only using stock LS gears, you can use the same pumpkin.
 
yes - a LSD for a 8.8 will work in the Gen1 - the pinion and ring fits on the 8.8 LSD. There are several threads on this.

If you are doing a gear swap - then you will have to redo your preload and backlash - meaning you will likely need to order new spacers. This is a DIYer job - but you'll need to understand how to perform these steps.
 
ummmm i disagree with quick on doing your rear end. No offense man, but you don't seem like you have done too many rear diffs before. these things grenade under normal conditions. I would HIGHLY recommend you don't do it your self. That being said... Quick is pretty right when he says is could be a DIY job if you know what they are. Maybe get a buddy who knows it pretty well to show you the ropes.
 
oh and pete.... you keep messing around with that LSD I'm gonna do it for ya overhaulin style...... "your cars been stolen" "its ok they stole my car it came back sexy and a beast"
 
That's what I'm doing. My brother in law has set up a few rear ends before. He's installing mine for a case of beer.

Only catch is, he doesn't get any of the brews until the work is done. A mess up on the install could prove VERY dangerous.
 
SPSully said:
oh and pete.... you keep messing around with that LSD I'm gonna do it for ya overhaulin style...... "your cars been stolen" "its ok they stole my car it came back sexy and a beast"
Click to expand...

I'm down :D

The dial indicator was the holdup. They aren't cheap for a tool I would only need once or twice. But it's definitely a vital tool for making sure the shim size is correct.

Unless someone knows where to get one for under 125 bucks?
 
Quik LS said:
This is a DIYer job - but you'll need to understand how to perform these steps.
Click to expand...


SPSully said:
ummmm i disagree with quick on doing your rear end. No offense man, but you don't seem like you have done too many rear diffs before. these things grenade under normal conditions. I would HIGHLY recommend you don't do it your self.
Click to expand...



I kind of agree with the both of you. I would consider doing a differential install (and the requisite readjusting) a DIY job too just like Quik said. However the proper steps do need to be taken for it to be a successful install that will perform well and last a long time due to it having potential to be a "high wear" point. There will be special tools involved but nothing too insane for a well practiced home DIY'er. I suppose I would consider a job like this as on the upper end of the capability of the average skilled/confident home DIY'er. If you do your own wrenching on a regular basis then setting your own diff up should not be a huge issue if you take your time. If a person finds themselves doubting their abilities in doing a job like this correctly then it might be suggested that they take it to a professional. Most of what I said is fairly common knowledge but I felt the need to jump in here for a reason or two. Good luck on the installs guys and girls.
 
Ok now that the installation has been covered I have another question. Where do I get this "LSD" for the gears? And as I stated before will this be okay for a daily drive and for travel and what not. I don't want to sacrifice drivability for just some extra power in the low end and a better lanch.
 
ok

a LSD wont give you any power, just add traction. And as far as drivability no real loss. Its the same as running a posi unit in a factory posi car. the vette, for example is typically posi of some sort.


you can get the tracloc at a dealer, or junk yard. Some of us went with after market lockers, but unless your gonna push big numbers you wont need that kind of performance.
 
My locking diff is from a 2004 Mustang GT. 8.8" 28 spline
 
Harbor Freight it is. Thanks so much for finding that for me! Looks like I'll be making that 80 mile trek sooner than I thought...
 
nobody tell him I have one here in the heated shop with what ever else he can think of maybe needing for the job
 
Must be nice!

I'm just getting into performance mods, so I have no collection of specialized tools.

My garage is heated, if you count the torpedo heater. But it's not insulated...

New garage hopefully this spring. Radiant floor heat, sloped/drain floor, wash bay, and lift are all on the menu.
 
Oh no... going to get the dial indicator this saturday. Shim kit will be ordered tomorrow. LSD should be installed next week.
 
IMO, I wouldn't even bother swapping in 3.58s from the 3.31s. You're hardly going to notice a difference. You'll see more of a difference from adding a limited slip diff.
 
Can you just add a 8.8 Trac-lok to the factory gears? I got a spare one from my mustang.. lol
 
Has anyone checked to make sure that a stock mustang 8.8 limited slip diff will work. Those are set up to use C clips to hold the axles in, where most IRS's, not sure about the LS yet, use spring clips one the stub axles that expand into a slot in the side gears in the diff to hold the axles in. I know this is how the 8.8 mark IRS works. If it is the way the LS is and there aren't the groves in the side gears in the standard diff, you could have a problem with the stub axles moving in and out. Just wanted to throw that out there.
 
pektel said:
My locking diff is from a 2004 Mustang GT. 8.8" 28 spline
Click to expand...

02blackls said:
Has anyone checked to make sure that a stock mustang 8.8 limited slip diff will work. Those are set up to use C clips to hold the axles in, where most IRS's, not sure about the LS yet, use spring clips one the stub axles that expand into a slot in the side gears in the diff to hold the axles in. I know this is how the 8.8 mark IRS works. If it is the way the LS is and there aren't the groves in the side gears in the standard diff, you could have a problem with the stub axles moving in and out. Just wanted to throw that out there.
Click to expand...

Pektel said he used a standard 8.8 Trac-lok.. if this is true, ANY 8.8 ford limited slip (28 spline) would work. I'm very interested.
 
Well he said that is what he has, I wanted to make sure it wouldn't cause him problems if he installs it.
 
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