98 Mark VIII needs suspension compressor

T

turn_on68

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Anyone have anything to say about who to buy a new compressor assembly from? I see them on eBay, new, re built, ect. for anywhere from $165 to $169delivered. Air Suspension, Arnott, any of you had good or bad experiences or know of someone else to check out?
Lee
 
turn_on68 said:
Anyone have anything to say about who to buy a new compressor assembly from? I see them on eBay, new, re built, ect. for anywhere from $165 to $169delivered. Air Suspension, Arnott, any of you had good or bad experiences or know of someone else to check out?
Lee
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Try Eddie Spinks at www.americanairsuspension.com he sells rebuilt air ride compressors and they are good. I have one from him on my Town Car that i have had for 3 years, Eddie will make you a good deal.
 
Brand new ford......F7LZ-5319-AA list $527.73 LVC..$379.97 plus ups

Max
 
mrzeee said:
Brand new ford......F7LZ-5319-AA list $527.73 LVC..$379.97 plus ups
Max
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I'd always suggest Max when it comes to OEM Ford Parts you can't beat his prices and service...

pepperman said:
Try Eddie Spinks at www.americanairsuspension.com he sells rebuilt air ride compressors and they are good. I have one from him on my Town Car that i have had for 3 years, Eddie will make you a good deal.
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But when it comes to the aftermarket on the air ride Eddie is the place to go.. None better.

Max and Eddie are the Mark VIII owners best friends...
 
Eddie's price on line is $165 delivered for an overhauled complete assembly.
Arnott is $169 delivered with a brand new supposedly better compressor and special coating to keep rust from developing inside.
 
NO compressor on the market new or rebuilt is better than the one you can get from Eddie. As anyone on here that knows me can contest that I slam my car to the ground (with the aid of my switch kit) and I drive it that way DAILY. I have had Eddies compressor on my car for well over 4 years and its still going strong. I have been using his compressors since 97 on several different Marks and as you will see in the pic I have provided what I mean by slammed. So, if you look at the pic and look at how high your car sits you will see what I mean. His compressors have been pumpin my car up for years and have NEVER failed.

His compressors have more flow, and more pressure than any other compressor on the market (for the Mark VIII, not aftermarket companies that is). He has been rebuilding these compressors for years, and he knows how to make them have better flow characteristics, and pressure. You will NOT go wrong with a rebuilt compressor from Eddie.

omgitfell.jpg
 
1wykdmk8 said:
I've got a used one that works $10 (includes shipping) if you are interested?
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I maybe? Any idea what code would be showing up if it was the relay and not the compressor? One of the sites said one should always replace the relay when replacing the compressor? I here a click when the key is turned but the compressor no longer turns on? I am all the way down and it really rides rough.
 
A good way to test the relay would be to swap it with the ABS relay that is located inside the driver's side inner fender. They are the same part.
 
billcu said:
A good way to test the relay would be to swap it with the ABS relay that is located inside the driver's side inner fender. They are the same part.
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Thanks, any way to tell me where to look for the relay for the suspension? Is it right there with the compressor? Also is there any chance it is a fuse? Is there a fuse on the suspension system. If so,is it on the left drivers instrument panel or the box under the hood. I am sure this is totally a coincidence, I had the windshield replaced the same day the suspension went out.
 
There is a fuse for the relay, in the power distribution box under the hood. There is also a fuse for the suspension module in the fuse box inside the car.

The relays are easy to find once you remove the plastic inner fenders.

This is what it looks like:

relay.jpg
 
billcu said:
There is a fuse for the relay, in the power distribution box under the hood. There is also a fuse for the suspension module in the fuse box inside the car.

The relays are easy to find once you remove the plastic inner fenders.

This is what it looks like:
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WOW Thank you so much for the pics. I will check the fuses also.
 
Ray are you trying to compete and beat my prices???? Nice guy...I take a day off and Ray steals my leads!!

That relay IS the same as the abs relay p/n F3LY-2C013-A list is
........$105.42 LVC would have been $75.90

What a deal you just got!!

Ray you know I'm just kidding....right?

Max
 
mrzeee said:
Ray are you trying to compete and beat my prices???? Nice guy...I take a day off and Ray steals my leads!!

That relay IS the same as the abs relay p/n F3LY-2C013-A list is
........$105.42 LVC would have been $75.90

What a deal you just got!!

Ray you know I'm just kidding....right?

Max
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Max thanks for the price. I just wanted a back up in case mine is bad and not the compressor. $10 I can not turn down. Max do you know if I use an OBII scanner are there codes that will be stored on the suspension failure that will pin point the compressor vs the relay? I really do not want to open both fender wells to swap relays unless I can be assured that the relay is bad? I have a compressor coming, meanwhile my back bones are breaking, my teeth chipping, as I ride around slammed to the ground. So I have access to a scanner.
 
If you're handy with wiring, you could unplug the compressor/vent valve connector and test just the compressor with a fused 12v wire and a ground wire.

It might be easier to just remove the inner fenders though. You don't need to remove them completley, just the front half, enough to get your hands in there.
 
Anyone have any pics of removing the front bumper cap or a step by step of doing it? Apparently it is easier to go the extra time and remove the bumper cap than going thru the fender well, and you have more room to get at the compressor without cutting your self on the fender well sheetmetal.
 
I disagree, it's easier to just work through the wheel well.

Remove the tire.
Remove the plastic liner.
And it'll all on there in the front.

Also, remove your air filter housing and throw out the "air silencer" that'll be in the way of the compressor.

While you're at it, maybe consider changing your fuel filter too.
(Get the $7 tool to simplify life)
 
I just swapped compressors from my parts car this weekend. My parts car already had the bumper off so it was a little easier. Having the bumper off just makes it easier to get to the front bolt, clip and hose that goes to the reservoir or whatever.
I did everything to my car through the wheel well. Definitely isn't a hard job, but it helped having an extra person present.

Mine was being noisy and finally went...After replacing it, I couldn't believe the difference. It is so quiet you can't even tell it's running unless you pay extra close attention.
 
I am speaking from experience here....I have done it both ways and I have to say the extra few seconds that it takes to remove the bumper cover is WELL worth it when it comes to being able to get to things without having to contort yourself and reach to get them. With the bumper cover removed you can get to everything you need to with TOTAL ease. Not only is it easier, but you have plenty of room to work, and you will not scrape the livin hell outta your arms/hands with the bumper cover removed.
 
1wykdmk8 said:
I am speaking from experience here....I have done it both ways and I have to say the extra few seconds that it takes to remove the bumper cover is WELL worth it when it comes to being able to get to things without having to contort yourself and reach to get them. With the bumper cover removed you can get to everything you need to with TOTAL ease. Not only is it easier, but you have plenty of room to work, and you will not scrape the livin hell outta your arms/hands with the bumper cover removed.
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HERE! HERE!
:)
 
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