Intermittent Oil Light, Steering Booster, Pass Window, Door Ajar

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2002LSV8

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Intermittent Oil Light, Steering Booster, Pass Window, Door Ajar

2002 Lincoln LS V8 Base

PROBLEM - Intermittent Issues As Follows:

Oil Pressure Light on dash comes on when starting car and the following don't work
Pass Front Window doesn't work,
Horn doesn't work
Power Steering Booster not working - Harder to turn, but can turn
Other things may not work too, but haven't noticed, or checked
Note: If I disconnect the battery overnight "sometimes" it clears these issues up,
but lately this does clear it up all the time.

NOTE: Sometimes Driver's Door Ajar Buzzer comes on along with the above issues
(If I disconnect battery for 10 mins, Door Ajar does not come back on)

NOW, the intermittent problems are constant (except Door Ajar is still intermittent)

Also, just started getting Check Engine Light with code P0402Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected

Just replace battery (battery with hose), also had a scan done to verify battery & charging
system are working properly.

Car runs fine, haven't noticed anything out of the norm.

Any idea of where to troubleshoot?
 
2002LSV8 said:
Intermittent Oil Light, Steering Booster, Pass Window, Door Ajar

2002 Lincoln LS V8 Base

PROBLEM - Intermittent Issues As Follows:

Oil Pressure Light on dash comes on when starting car and the following don't work
Pass Front Window doesn't work,
Horn doesn't work
Power Steering Booster not working - Harder to turn, but can turn
Other things may not work too, but haven't noticed, or checked
Note: If I disconnect the battery overnight "sometimes" it clears these issues up,
but lately this does clear it up all the time.

NOTE: Sometimes Driver's Door Ajar Buzzer comes on along with the above issues
(If I disconnect battery for 10 mins, Door Ajar does not come back on)

NOW, the intermittent problems are constant (except Door Ajar is still intermittent)

Also, just started getting Check Engine Light with code P0402Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected

Just replace battery (battery with hose), also had a scan done to verify battery & charging
system are working properly.

Car runs fine, haven't noticed anything out of the norm.

Any idea of where to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
I would suggest testing the oil pressure just to make sure the oil pump is working properly...this would be crucial ...if the oil pressure is low and the illumination light is warning you (that is if the system doesn't have a short somewhere) then I would suggest not driving the car because you could lock up the engine...oil pressure test doesn't cost a whole lot at a Indy shop
 
I understand what you're saying, but whenever the oil light is on, I get the other issues too, which leads me to believe it's something else causing this. I never get just the oil light without the others issues at the same time. I either get them all, or none of them.
 
2002LSV8 said:
I understand what you're saying, but whenever the oil light is on, I get the other issues too, which leads me to believe it's something else causing this. I never get just the oil light without the others issues at the same time. I either get them all, or none of them.
Click to expand...
Got you.
 
Sounds a bit like a loose ground connection. Maybe pull the kick panels and clean and tighten the ground connections you find there? (Disconnect the battery negative first.)
 
joegr said:
Sounds a bit like a loose ground connection. Maybe pull the kick panels and clean and tighten the ground connections you find there? (Disconnect the battery negative first.)
Click to expand...
Passenger Compartment Fuse Box:
F6wR9tq.jpg

Excuse my ignorance about anything electrical, guess that's why I'm here..lol
Are you talking about the two areas I have boxed in blue? Do I need to disassemble the plugs completely, then clean?

Also, just noticed that the radio stays on after I turn the car off and close the door (stays on for 10 mins), it use to always turn off when the door was opened.

Could these issues have anything to do with an "ignition switch" going bad?

Thanks for your prior reply, very much appreciated...
 
No, not any of that. I'm talking about the wires that go to lugs that are bolted to the metal of the car.
The radio staying on is an issue with the data bus.
 
I just noticed all my front lights (headlights, turn signals, flashers, parking) are not working either. Just noticed now because I seldom drive at night.

It's starting to seem like the FEM. What's you thoughts about the FEM?
 
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2002LSV8 said:
I just noticed all my front lights (headlights, turn signals, flashers, parking) are not working either. Just noticed now because I seldom drive at night.

It's starting to seem like the FEM. What's you thoughts about the FEM?
Click to expand...
FWIW....The FEM is expensive and the cluster is expensive, You could always have a diagnostic scan to find out for sure which one is at fault. I'm thinking $100 dollars at most ...at least you will know what direction to go
 
AmsterDutch said:
FWIW....The FEM is expensive and the cluster is expensive, You could always have a diagnostic scan to find out for sure which one is at fault. I'm thinking $100 dollars at most ...at least you will know what direction to go
Click to expand...
Agree, that was/is my next step, appt set for next Wednesday (7-1-2020) for the dealership, boy I hate going there...lol

Thanks.....
 
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I agree with Joe about possibly a ground issue.

There's a main one in the trunk... down in the spare tire well that gets rusted up pretty bad.

Check for white powder corrosion at the wires coming off the battery... that go to the relay/fuse box in the trunk.

I realize that's at the opposite end of the car that is having problems... but sometimes bad grounds can do funky things where you least expect it.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
I agree with Joe about possibly a ground issue.

There's a main one in the trunk... down in the spare tire well that gets rusted up pretty bad.

Check for white powder corrosion at the wires coming off the battery... that go to the relay/fuse box in the trunk.

I realize that's at the opposite end of the car that is having problems... but sometimes bad grounds can do funky things where you least expect it.
Click to expand...
Checked that one, and a few others, but they are all tightly secure and look new. I did disconnect them & sanded the sides, but still the same issues.

Thanks for the input.......
 
Yes, the FEM is a possibility. I disagree about it being expensive. They are probably $20 at pick-n-pull junkyards.
 
joegr said:
Yes, the FEM is a possibility. I disagree about it being expensive. They are probably $20 at pick-n-pull junkyards.
Click to expand...
I searched online, found a couple on eBay for around $80-$100 for the same FEM I have (YW4T-13B525-AB) and they have a 30 day return, couldn't find them anywhere else.

Looks like I'll probably go ahead and get one and try it, before going to the dealership.

Anything I should look for when buying one, or installing it (disconnect negative cable first)?

My FEM:
Eek7Jyh.jpg
 
Yes, always disconnect the battery first, and always disconnect the battery negative first (or only) to disconnect the battery.
 
It should be, as long as it is from the same generation (2003 is a possible exception here), and same country (unless you don't care about DRL).
 
UPDATE:
Ordered a used FEM on eBay ($40.87 shipped - 1 yr warranty).
I came today, so I did an R&R, connected the battery cables, started the car..........Surprise, everything is working again the way it should. Took it for a drive and no issues.

Who would have thought the FEM could cause so many issues.

Wanna say Thanks to everyone for their input, it saved me a trip to the dealership, which is always a good thing...............
 
FINAL UPDATE:
The "Check Engine Light with code P0402" was a separate issue that just so happened to get at the same time.

P0402 - I replaced the DPFE, but that didn't work, then cleaned the EGR Valve, and that didn't work either, then replace the EGR Valve (with in gasket that came with it), and that worked..........
 
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