Lincoln Ls Timing Chain Tensioner Swap

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LincolnSedan

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Replacing secondary timing chain tensioners with 4th gen and chain that includes master link to swap new chain. Intended to not remove 2ndary cam (disturb it) and swap tensioners. 2000 model year. Old tensioners so far in good shape but suspect. Cannot remove the old red colored tensioner, too large to lift out of the space between the cams.

The new tensioners may fit between the cams without removing the cam. Do not have the cam locking tool. If destroying the existing tensioners to get them out, seems like contamination in the engine would be a big concern since the splinter all over.

Can the 2ndary cam be removed by marking the existing position with a greese pencil in multiple places, then carefully placing the bearings in the proper order, orientation; then carefully following the torque sequence? Is it possible to do it without the cam locking tool?

Already removed the old chain, cannot zip tie it, wanted to swap chains anyway.
Any ideas on the best procedure from this point?
 
ok im here and wondering why its a 100 dollar piece of steel and there is only 1 of them also wondering were I can develop slop notice that you may have to rotate the crank a few to get tension on the secondaries the pin I was told is part of the beginning of a timing adventure but not to be used to take off the chains
 
not clear on what you are saying? there is one locking tool as there are 2 flat spots on the cam that have to be in exactly the same plane. the locking tool would alot the removal of the sprockets or maybe help with replacement of the main chain. there are no issues with the main chain or tensioners.

can see how the tool would lock the cams in position and make it possible to remove sprockets. it would be impossible to get the correct torque on the sprocket without that tool, ie if it was damaged, needing replacement.

one person online zip tied the sprocket to the existing chain. procedure calls for replacement of chain with tensioner. the torque on the cam lobes is like 53 inch pounds, some small value, with a specific sequence.
 
yea the flats on the cams but the tool kit has one an the main chains as in 2 and two sets of flats do one then the other hope the other doesn't move havnt done main what about putting in the flywheel pin and just have at taking off the sprockets chains one set at a time who has the denou link
 
sorry, do not understand what you are saying? are you talking about removing the sprockets? are you saying someone has a tool they could loan? My intention was not to remove the sprockets but that would be easier than removing the cam. One I have installed, using the marks, think it is dead on, just have to do the torque the caps down.

could you please explain more clearly what you are saying?> are you suggesting a procedure? flywheel pin?
 
If i understand you locking the flywheel, the cam will spin when trying to take the sprocket off. guess that is why there is a locking bar for the head.
 
LincolnSedan said:
Replacing secondary timing chain tensioners with 4th gen and chain that includes master link to swap new chain. Intended to not remove 2ndary cam (disturb it) and swap tensioners. 2000 model year. Old tensioners so far in good shape but suspect. Cannot remove the old red colored tensioner, too large to lift out of the space between the cams.

The new tensioners may fit between the cams without removing the cam. Do not have the cam locking tool. If destroying the existing tensioners to get them out, seems like contamination in the engine would be a big concern since the splinter all over.

Can the 2ndary cam be removed by marking the existing position with a greese pencil in multiple places, then carefully placing the bearings in the proper order, orientation; then carefully following the torque sequence? Is it possible to do it without the cam locking tool?

Already removed the old chain, cannot zip tie it, wanted to swap chains anyway.
Any ideas on the best procedure from this point?
Click to expand...

It's fine if you remove the chain. I did the same job, but I didn't need to use the cam locking tool, so it is definitely possible without the locking tool. You can partially remove the exhaust cam if the chain is still on (but ziptied to the sprocket) and slip the old tensioner out and the new one in OR just remove the whole cam and do the tensioner job that way. When you install the cam again with the chain on and tensioned just make sure the cam flats are parallel (on the same plane). I used a small level to check. On my '00 LS V8 I put the crankshaft keyway at 6.00 o clock pointing straight down and both cam banks with their flats on the same plane and it works fine doing it that way. Not sure about 03 LS since I think you have the variable cam timing, though. . .
 
see the in the know page for the job with the crank pin and the single cam lock tool and order I assume returning the timing is with the tdc mark but the pin is at atdc and there is the question of compression or exhaust stroke if im not mistaken or will the cams be relaxed when the flywheel pin is in to return the cams ??
 
ntdeac New LVC Member, yeh, used the straight edge method. now understand full timing chain r and r. think, on the main chains, there are dots to line up at the bottom. 1 has to be tdc. in this case, main chain and tensioners look good. looks like the timing came in well, had to remove the cam, no way to get the old tensioner out due to size. the new ones may slip in between the sprokets.

the job generally, is not a fun time. a medium sized 1/4 drive 10mm is very helpful to get the covers off esp on the rt side.

at about 124k, the original version of the plastic tensioners where good except a hairline crack starting, the surfaces where the chain rides where not that bad. could reflect oil changes and not hot rodding it. can see how the design is stupid, have plastic floating around your engine.

cam locking tool seems essential if removing sprockets, say if you had the chain skip, having to replace it. may not have a key way. there is a whole long procedure for r and r of the entire set, maybe other tools.
 
have to use flats and cam lock tool to play with the timing set found out today that invariably something will move your cams ….
 
ntdeac, on the right side, no matter what position I put the chain on the exhaust cam, it produces slac in the chain on the top side of the 2 sprockets. the tensioner is facing down, I want the chain slack on that side. when trying different chain positions on the exhaust sprocket, the flats end up out of alignment relative to obtaining slack in the desired location under the tensioner. bottom side. o

Only solution I see is loosen the sprocket bolt, then I need the locking block it would seam since I will need to re attach the allen bolt to the proper spec in 2 steps. rotate the sproket to make the chain position happy, apply torque.

some questions arise on this (keeping in mind this is a modification of the full procedure to replace the entire timing set, just tensioners and chains.

1. does on absolutely need the tool otc tool 303 532 timing chan tensioner tool (already buying the locking block tool for the cams, dont want to collect more unless needed (some say the pins on the cheap ones may come out unless welded)
2. for sure, is the jaguar timing set kit usable on the lincoln 3.9? some chatter that it works with some jag and newer engines but not the lincoln, bolt spacing it would be labeled a jag tool kit
3. 2ndary tensioners are suppose to be the big thing with these cars, needing to go to gen 4; are the primary chains, guides and tensioners also a an isssue? do you get advanced warning first like they start ratting, making noise rather than blow the engine?
4. is the main chain set as bad as the 2ndary tensioners? do the chains stretch in this case?

looking not to tear into it, does not even look like they are warn, guides look ok from the top, any info, thanks.


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