Hydraulic Fan questions

00LincLS

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The Fan was working properly and now it doesn’t spin. I know the fan should be good and the only few things that could cause it not to spin is the fan motor, pump or actuator solenoid.

1. Is there a way to test these parts to see which one is the malfunctioning part?

2. If the fan is fine and it’s the motor, can I remove the motor off of the fan and replace it with a new one?

3. Should I just replace all 3 components?

Don’t suggest converting to electric please, working with what I have atm and converting is out of my range. Any positive help and feedback is greatly appreciated.
 
1. Yes, but most of the dealers even wouldn't invest in the test equipment.
2. Yes.
3. That's up to you. That was the usual dealer approach to the problem.

You left fluid out of the list of possibilities above. How's the fluid?
 
1. Yes, but most of the dealers even wouldn't invest in the test equipment.
2. Yes.
3. That's up to you. That was the usual dealer approach to the problem.

You left fluid out of the list of possibilities above. How's the fluid?
The fluid is good and full.
 
It's not the actuator. Even when fully closed, the fan should still spin slowly
 
Anybody have any ideas then? Since it was mentioned that it’s not the actuator. Does that narrow it down to the motor or pump or is there something I’m missing?
 
If the fan is able to be turned by hand, the fluid looks decent, then I would still go with an actuator.
 
If the fan is able to be turned by hand, the fluid looks decent, then I would still go with an actuator.
That’s what I’m confused about. The fan can be pushed by hand, the fluid is full. The comment from FDR is what’s confusing since they are saying it’s not the actuator. I don’t know what signs to look for to eliminate a part and need help.
 
Do you see circulation in the reservoir when the engine is running?
 
You should be able to see fluid moving when you open the cap and look inside the reservoir.
 
So, the pump is pumping at least some fluid, but the fan motor isn't moving...
So that should narrow it down to the motor since there’s fluid in it, there’s some type of fluid motion and the fan can be pushed by hand, correct?
 
So that should narrow it down to the motor since there’s fluid in it, there’s some type of fluid motion and the fan can be pushed by hand, correct?

Unfortunately, I'm not 100% sure of that. If there had been no circulation, I think that it would pretty certainly be the pump.
 
Unfortunately, I'm not 100% sure of that. If there had been no circulation, I think that it would pretty certainly be the pump.
So it sounds like it’s either the motor or pump but to be certain I’d probably replace both the motor and pump.

The other problem I’m having is find the oem number for just the motor and pump.
 
The pump is (well was) YW4Z-8C628-BA.
I can't find the fan motor.
 
The pump is (well was) YW4Z-8C628-BA.
I can't find the fan motor.
Yeah I’m not finding the motor alone. Everything I’ve found is the motor and the fan together. May just get the fan/motor together and the pump and replace everything.
 
lol just replace the solenoid! Trust me, you do not want to remove that fan motor just to find out that it was still good. There are fittings that are a complete bear to remove without fabricating yourself a new tool. In my case, I believe that i had to make a 4 inch 17 mm open end wrench out of a longer wrench. If I recall correctly, it also has to be thin to fit.

At the same time, it wouldn't be too far fetched to tally up the costs involved in this endeavor and seriously think about an electric fan conversion. Dollar wise, it could turn out to be 1/4 of what it costs to replace everything that you are looking at replacing. At the end of the day, if you completely restore the stock hydraulic cooling fan system, you still end up with a quirky setup. No matter how much you polish that turd, it's still a turd. And yes, my turd is still working, on its 3rd solenoid/actuator. I only removed my cooling fan 9 years ago because I was changing the radiator. At that time, I was on my original actuator and no, the radiator did not fix it. It was a bad actuator.
 
lol just replace the solenoid! Trust me, you do not want to remove that fan motor just to find out that it was still good. There are fittings that are a complete bear to remove without fabricating yourself a new tool. In my case, I believe that i had to make a 4 inch 17 mm open end wrench out of a longer wrench. If I recall correctly, it also has to be thin to fit.

At the same time, it wouldn't be too far fetched to tally up the costs involved in this endeavor and seriously think about an electric fan conversion. Dollar wise, it could turn out to be 1/4 of what it costs to replace everything that you are looking at replacing. At the end of the day, if you completely restore the stock hydraulic cooling fan system, you still end up with a quirky setup. No matter how much you polish that turd, it's still a turd. And yes, my turd is still working, on its 3rd solenoid/actuator. I only removed my cooling fan 9 years ago because I was changing the radiator. At that time, I was on my original actuator and no, the radiator did not fix it. It was a bad actuator.
So what’s all needed to convert to an electric fan? Like parts etc.

The actuator was actually one of the parts that I considered could be the problem. I then got confused by an earlier response saying it’s not the actuator.
 
There are some excellent posts regarding the topic. I do not have the details, but they involve what to get for a fan, where to get the power from to run it, and how to install another vehicle's thermal controller switch to provide the fan with intelligently switched power. It also tells you what to get for a new belt without the length needed to wrap around the pump delete, IIRC.
 
There are some excellent posts regarding the topic. I do not have the details, but they involve what to get for a fan, where to get the power from to run it, and how to install another vehicle's thermal controller switch to provide the fan with intelligently switched power. It also tells you what to get for a new belt without the length needed to wrap around the pump delete, IIRC.
Are they stickies in the forum here?
 

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