Roger that lol I'll get the pressure tester asap
Engine knocking sounds
- Thread starter Morgynn
- Start date
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
No, not at all. That would be a very bad sign. There should be a slight suction of air going into the fill cap due to the PCV system. If there was air and oil spitting out (blow-by) that would mean that your rings are shot.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Even with the engine off, you should see that the parts are wet with oil. With it running, it won't be much more than that. Don't expect to see a river of oil or anything like that. There are plenty of large drains to take it all right back to the oil pan.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Come on. He'd be getting cam timing codes if that were the case, because the VCT needs decent oil pressure to work.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
I knew I shoulda put one more post in.
Not sure how all the oil passages flow. I just assumed that since the oil pump was on the front... that it fed the bearings, tensioners, and cam phasers first, (including the VCT's)... with the cams being fed last.
Wouldn't be the first time I was wrong.
Not sure how all the oil passages flow. I just assumed that since the oil pump was on the front... that it fed the bearings, tensioners, and cam phasers first, (including the VCT's)... with the cams being fed last.
Wouldn't be the first time I was wrong.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
How do you explain the coil codes not coming back after adding the oil thickener?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Can't possibly be related...
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Fair enough.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
So the coil s magically healed themselves?
Yep got under it and the sounds coming from the trans, I pulled off the case for the flexplate and it looks like everything us running straight as an arrow, could it be like a sensor or something? It does jerk a but when you're shifting from p to d4 or d5, and reverse.....
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Definitely tourque converter, got it moved to a different position and it's got some bolts but some are gone so that would.be my issue I'd say
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
No, there's a good possibility that you are correct about that. If the rubber strip between the inner and outer parts is coming out the front side, then you need to do something ASAP. If it is coming out the back side (rubbing on the timing cover), then you have a little while to deal with it. If it is still sitting even, then you can take a chance on it for a while yet.
Any idea how I go about replacing these bolts? What's going to be easiest
How shitty of a job us that?
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Unless you're an expert on this transmission ....get some detailed information on it....it's more complex than one may think
This transmission has:
- five forward speeds.
- electronic shift, pressure and torque converter clutch controls.
- three compound planetary gearsets.
- three bands.
- three multi-plate clutches.
- two one-way clutches.
- static engagement feel.
- shift feel.
- shift scheduling.
- moded torque converter clutch (TCC) applications.
- engine braking utilizing the coast clutch and band.
- manual first and second timing.
- reverse inhibit timing.
How much do you think its going to cost me in parts? And do I need any special tools? My buddy is a journeyman heavy duty and says he'll help me out so it shouldnt be too hard i hope
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
This may not be exactly in order... and I may miss something...
- disconnect battery
- remove rear half of exhaust
- remove tin underbelly heat shield pan.
- unbolt and remove rear driveshaft coupler, (color code each bolt assembly and keep in hole it came from because the coupler is a balanced assembly)
- index mark center driveshaft support and note location/direction of spacers... then unbolt center driveshaft support
- disconnect main electrical harness behind intake manifold, and relocate both halves of the harness so it doesn't get crushed when lowering transmission
- unbolt torque converter from flex plate
- disconnect o2 sensors and remove wiring from trans
- support tailshaft of transmission and unbolt rear support.
- lower transmission part way and disconnect solenoid pack harness.
- disconnect and remove vent tube on passenger side of trans, (so it doesn't get crushed)
- lower trans enough to loosen all bolts.
- you may have to loosen or remove front half of exhaust
- you will need at least one jack stand to support rear of engine
- remove all but 2 tranny bolts... leaving one on each side. Wiggle trans off dowel pins. If it wont wiggle off... you will need a propane torch to heat up the aluminum case to expand the aluminum off the dowel pins.
- put jack under trans and shim with wood to match the angle... then ratchet strap trans to jack... then remove last 2 bolts, (or use transmission jack). Ooorrr... if you and your buddy feel manly enough... you can bench press it down off the engine to the ground.
- You'll want to start with the back if the car about 18" off the ground... and the front about a foot higher... or put the vehicle on a hoist. Otherwise... the tailshaft will hit the ground before you get enough angle to pull it off the engine. Don't do this job with the rear wheels on the ground... because when you disconnect the driveshaft... you might want to change your user name to "Slim".
Reverse everything for install.
To replace the torque converter... don't stand the trans on end with all the weight on the tailshaft. Keep it flat on the ground. Support the lower part of the torque converter with your hands... lift up a little to support the weight... and pull it straight off the input shaft. You will notice the back side of the converter has a nose with slots. Those slots "key" into the pump. Also... there is a splined gear inside the torque converter... that goes on, (and turns), the input shaft of the trans. When installing the new torque converter... the trick is to catch the gear inside on the splines of the input shaft... while rotating it to key into the pump... while at the same time getting the nose past the seal without farking it up. If you did it right... the torque converter should be slightly countersunk in the case... not flush. Take note of the depth when pulling the trans... that way you have a reference when installing the new one.
Then reinstall in reverse order... making sure one bolt hole on the torque converter lines up with the flex plate, (probably best to make sure one of your bolts is at the 6 o'clock position when you start pulling the trans).
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Forgot to add that you could fill the new torque converter part way up with fluid before installing it... and you should lightly lube the nose of the torque converter with a little tranny fluid... to help get past and lube the seal.
smegun
Well-Known LVC Member
red oil light is on no dtc's scan tool states coolant is way hot but cluster gage is normal