OBD2 won't Communicate

jdcook18

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I Have a 2000 Lincoln Ls with 140k miles on it I'm currently trying to get it to pass emissions but the emissions computers wont communicate with the obd2 port and several obd2 scanners wont communicate either iv managed to get one scanner to work but that's it. The car currently has an airbag light on for the clockspring, and an abs light on for the right front wheel speed sensor I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it though. The car also says check traction control when driving and fuel data error. Iv checked all the fuses in the car along with pin #4 #5 and #16 on the obd 2 connector under the dash and they all seem to be fine so I'm not sure where to go from here any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Faults with any systems should not keep the OBD from working. Only Ford specific scanners will be able to pull codes from the ABS, SRS, and other non-emissions related systems.

What was different about the one scan tool that worked?
 
Faults with any systems should not keep the OBD from working. Only Ford specific scanners will be able to pull codes from the ABS, SRS, and other non-emissions related systems.

What was different about the one scan tool that worked?
The scan tool that worked was a bluetooth bosch scan tool I picked up from oreillys that reads ABS,SRS, and Engine DTCs. My Innova 3100a fails to communicate it doesn't read ABS or SRS though that's the only difference I can think of though, its same thing with the shops scan tools and Emissions computer
 
usually it's from no power to the dtc connector. most other fords it's power from the cig lighter that powers it.
check fuses everywhere. engine bay as well.
 
I would think that the connector has power if the bluetooth adapter worked.
Did the tool that worked indicate in any way that it was communicating with the PCM? If the connection to the PCM is bad, that might explain it as well as the fuel data error.
Verify the OBD connections between the diagnostic port and the PCM. If those are good, you might have to send the PCM for repair.
 
I would think that the connector has power if the bluetooth adapter worked.
Did the tool that worked indicate in any way that it was communicating with the PCM? If the connection to the PCM is bad, that might explain it as well as the fuel data error.
Verify the OBD connections between the diagnostic port and the PCM. If those are good, you might have to send the PCM for repair.
The tool didn't give any indication of an issue communicating with the pcm I could get live data, read codes it didn't seem to have any issues how would I go about verifying the wires from the connector to the pcm I know pin #16 had 12.5v and both pin #4 and 5 are both good grounds
 
I Have a 2000 Lincoln Ls with 140k miles on it I'm currently trying to get it to pass emissions but the emissions computers wont communicate with the obd2 port and several obd2 scanners wont communicate either iv managed to get one scanner to work but that's it. The car currently has an airbag light on for the clockspring, and an abs light on for the right front wheel speed sensor I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it though. The car also says check traction control when driving and fuel data error. Iv checked all the fuses in the car along with pin #4 #5 and #16 on the obd 2 connector under the dash and they all seem to be fine so I'm not sure where to go from here any help would be greatly appreciated.

First off I didn't see anywhere you specified the details of the obd2 scanners so that first off we could know whether or not you're using the wrong hardware. I own a 2000 LS myself and kind of assumed any Bluetooth/wifi or usb obd2 adapter would work without issue ;but NONE WORKED!!
The frustrating part is that they would half way kind of connect , like in Torque and the Ford Android app it would look like it's connected fine ;but scanning never worked.
Instead of just creating a new thread and waiting to be spoon fed the magickal solution from the all knowing LS Elite Owners Group here on the forums (nothing against anyone choosing otherwise).
I took the initiative to scour threads for hours collecting data and came into the knowledge that Gen 1 (and possibly Gen 2??) require a pinout that's compatible with MS-CAN and non working adapters can have the pinout changed in order to be able to communicate ;but buying the right adapter from the hop is the easiest way if you lack basic soldering skills.
The exact unit I bought is a USB obd2 adapter with CAN switch, I went with USB because hard line connection is far superior to either BT or Wifi.
I also bought this specific unit because it was confirmed to be Forscan compatible and I have a computer built into my car that's running Windows 10 and Forscan with Extended License (free)
For any gen LS Forscan is the must have software, for Gen 1 LS you can program remote entry key fobs with ease and doing this on Gen 1 LS prior required blood stained underwear and a months worth of Chipolte Away to heal the damage inflicted by the stealership's deep penetrating billing policy lol.

You don't list the adapters that don't work or the one you say did connect or the settings, you don't give any details of the software you're using or the platform you're using it on.
You did explain what's going on technically ;but narrowing down the exact root of your issue is going to require actually having information to critically process what's actually happening.

You also don't say whether or not the car is running while you're trying or if you're moving or what position the ignition is in (on-acc-run).

Long winded comment aside as a 2000 LS owner that's faced the exact same thing I'm betting on you not having the right Modified Elm 327 adapter.
Here's a link to the exact one I bought,
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0744KSPTC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can go with a Modified Bluetooth or Wifi one if you don't want USB, as I said I chose to get a USB adapter for a couple reasons other than superior connection quality. A big factor for me is using Windows 10 and a laptop VS using a cell phone or tablet and hokey/almost malware like programs that basically only give you read access to DTC codes and the most basic of information.
If you have some tech/soldering skill the pinout on regular obd2 adapters can be changed to work as MS-CAN by swapping 2 pins, or you could solder in a toggle switch to switch between the 2 CAN busses (Correct me if busses isn't the correct term it just felt right).
Anyways I hope you're able to gain a little insight from my long winded borderline rant lol
Give some of the details I asked for if you were trying the proper Elm modified adapters switched to MS-CAN and still facing the same issues.
If not.... ahaha yeah right if not.
 
First off I didn't see anywhere you specified the details of the obd2 scanners so that first off we could know whether or not you're using the wrong hardware. I own a 2000 LS myself and kind of assumed any Bluetooth/wifi or usb obd2 adapter would work without issue ;but NONE WORKED!!
The frustrating part is that they would half way kind of connect , like in Torque and the Ford Android app it would look like it's connected fine ;but scanning never worked.
Instead of just creating a new thread and waiting to be spoon fed the magickal solution from the all knowing LS Elite Owners Group here on the forums (nothing against anyone choosing otherwise).
I took the initiative to scour threads for hours collecting data and came into the knowledge that Gen 1 (and possibly Gen 2??) require a pinout that's compatible with MS-CAN and non working adapters can have the pinout changed in order to be able to communicate ;but buying the right adapter from the hop is the easiest way if you lack basic soldering skills.
The exact unit I bought is a USB obd2 adapter with CAN switch, I went with USB because hard line connection is far superior to either BT or Wifi.
I also bought this specific unit because it was confirmed to be Forscan compatible and I have a computer built into my car that's running Windows 10 and Forscan with Extended License (free)
For any gen LS Forscan is the must have software, for Gen 1 LS you can program remote entry key fobs with ease and doing this on Gen 1 LS prior required blood stained underwear and a months worth of Chipolte Away to heal the damage inflicted by the stealership's deep penetrating billing policy lol.

You don't list the adapters that don't work or the one you say did connect or the settings, you don't give any details of the software you're using or the platform you're using it on.
You did explain what's going on technically ;but narrowing down the exact root of your issue is going to require actually having information to critically process what's actually happening.

You also don't say whether or not the car is running while you're trying or if you're moving or what position the ignition is in (on-acc-run).

Long winded comment aside as a 2000 LS owner that's faced the exact same thing I'm betting on you not having the right Modified Elm 327 adapter.
Here's a link to the exact one I bought,
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0744KSPTC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can go with a Modified Bluetooth or Wifi one if you don't want USB, as I said I chose to get a USB adapter for a couple reasons other than superior connection quality. A big factor for me is using Windows 10 and a laptop VS using a cell phone or tablet and hokey/almost malware like programs that basically only give you read access to DTC codes and the most basic of information.
If you have some tech/soldering skill the pinout on regular obd2 adapters can be changed to work as MS-CAN by swapping 2 pins, or you could solder in a toggle switch to switch between the 2 CAN busses (Correct me if busses isn't the correct term it just felt right).
Anyways I hope you're able to gain a little insight from my long winded borderline rant lol
Give some of the details I asked for if you were trying the proper Elm modified adapters switched to MS-CAN and still facing the same issues.
If not.... ahaha yeah right if not.
The scanner that works is a bosch obd 1050 and I'm using the bosch mobile scan software on android the other scanner that doesn't work is an innova 3100a im not sure what the emissions shop is using I'm not using any adapters I've also tried using them with key on engine off and key on engine on it works with the bosch but nothing else I'm not really concerned about me being able to read the obd2 I'm more concerned with the smog shop being able to read the car so I can pass emissions and register the car
 
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Ok let me clearly explain this.
For the Lincoln LS gen 1 like ours you need an obd2 adapter that has been modified. The name will clearly reflect whether or not the adapter is in fact modified.
The Amazon link I provided previously is guaranteed to work for you and is only 30$.
It will be called whatever the model is ;but include the phrase "Modified Elm 327". The normal CAN bus used by the obd2 adapters is setup with a pinout that's for HS-CAN and Gen 1 LS requires MS-CAN which uses a variation pinout that has 2 pins reversed from the factory HS-CAN setup. As far as I know Forscan is the only software that has the ability to auto detect the pinout of the adapter and correct the pinout itself.
You first need the right software and I'm positive the Bosch program isn't it. You should start with forscan lite for android, followed by the free Ford app (not the modern day my ford app that comes with new cars ;but unless you have a Ford VCM and a subscription to Ford IDS software or a Snap on Scan tool your best bet is Forscan.
The settings are a straight forward user friendly layout and graphic interface without any need for command line.
Forscan lite is free ;but I suggest finding a way to use a Windows PC, laptop or tablet to use the full Forscan program.
To summarize the adapters you're using aren't the right MS-CAN setup on the pinout required by the car so even if you kind of connect 2 of the pins are sending and receiving the wrong signal.
You can google (or forum) search ms-can obd2 adapter mod to see which 2 pins have to be manually switched or just get Forscan!
I hope I explained it clearly.
 
None of that has anything to do with the scanner at the official state inspection shop not working with the car. You seem to be ignoring that. He has to fix his LS to work with the shop scanner, or he can't legally drive it.
He has a problem, and the fuel data error is very likely related to it.
 
None of that has anything to do with the scanner at the official state inspection shop not working with the car. You seem to be ignoring that. He has to fix his LS to work with the shop scanner, or he can't legally drive it.
He has a problem, and the fuel data error is very likely related to it.
So I went out and messed with the car today checked all the fuses again they all were fine I'm not sure how to go about checking the relays otherwise I would check those as well. Im also not really sure what voltage I'm supposed to be getting out of the rest of the pins on the obd 2 I know that pin 16 is supposed to be battery voltage and 4 and 5 are both grounds but I'm not sure about the rest. I did notice when messing with the fuel button and reset button it would say fuel data error then briefly say 334 miles to empty then again say fuel data error so I'm wondering if there's maybe a short? I'm not sure really where to start looking though. I consider myself to be pretty mechanically inclined but I'm not that great with electrical systems. I have an appointment with the local ford dealer on the 11th just in case I cant fix it by then. I appreciate all the help though this is just kind of a frustrating problem
 
There isn't a lot that most can do for a problem like that without dealer level equipment.
 
There isn't a lot that most can do for a problem like that without dealer level equipment.
Alright well I guess I'll wait till my appointment at the dealer. In the mean time I'll just finish up some small interior issues and look around the forums for what might be causing the fuel data error issue. This just sucks because Iv put alot of work into the car to get it road worthy (new tires, coils, spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, degas bottle, sway bar bushings, tie rods) and I'm stuck because of this one issue. I think it's a pretty cool car I'm used to audi's and this is my first lincoln, someone gave it to me and I had honestly never heard of an LS. Thanks for all the replies though I appreciate it
 
I Have a 2000 Lincoln Ls with 140k miles on it I'm currently trying to get it to pass emissions but the emissions computers wont communicate with the obd2 port and several obd2 scanners wont communicate either iv managed to get one scanner to work but that's it. The car currently has an airbag light on for the clockspring, and an abs light on for the right front wheel speed sensor I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it though. The car also says check traction control when driving and fuel data error. Iv checked all the fuses in the car along with pin #4 #5 and #16 on the obd 2 connector under the dash and they all seem to be fine so I'm not sure where to go from here any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would start with replacing the Clock Spring. It is fairly easy with the use of YouTube. You can purchase the part through rockauto.com. for about $135 or so. I did this on my 2002 LSE and it all worked out good and I saved about $300. Many things go through the clock spring. All of the steering wheel controls etc.
 
I would start with replacing the Clock Spring. It is fairly easy with the use of YouTube. You can purchase the part through rockauto.com. for about $135 or so. I did this on my 2002 LSE and it all worked out good and I saved about $300. Many things go through the clock spring. All of the steering wheel controls etc.

Seriously? Nothing OBD related goes through the clockspring.

Through the clockspring: Steering wheel radio controls, cruise control buttons, steering wheel button illumination, the driver's airbag, and the horn. That's it.
 
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So just to update I finally got it figured out I ended up having about 8 wires that were broken/corroded on my main harness that runs underneath the fender liner on the passenger side and then up through the bumper and underneath the passenger headlight and fuse box under the hood. The wires were broken where the harness bends to go up underneath the headlight. I soldered and taped up the bad/broken connections and my innova scanner (same one the smog shop uses) had no problem connecting it also solved my fuel data error and front drivers side turn signal not working. So I hope me posting this will help someone who has this problem out. Once again thank you for all the replys.
 
Thanks for the update. I've read of others with wiring problems in that location, but I didn't realize that those signals ran through there.
 

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