Probably, but trying to fix them is a PITA and probably not worth fixing over replacing (well, unless you're me and a glutton for this kind of thing). Mine use 5050 LED chips, which have 3 LEDs and 6 contacts in an SMD package, reflowed to a tiny circuit board, which is then soldered to 4 other boards. You can't really resolder them with a soldering iron because the other 5 solidified solder joints will hold the chip in place and make bridging the gap difficult. The next option is a heat gun to melt all 6 points at the same time, but then there is a good chance you'll also melt the solder holding the boards together and have the whole thing fall apart. And being 5050 sized LEDs, they're 5x5x1mm squares that you can only hold with tweezers... maybe.
If you recall, I actually bought red versions of those 5x5050 168 LED bulbs and replaced each individual LED with orange for my dash using a heat gun (and had a couple start to fall apart). Searching "orange 168" on eBay only returned "amber/orange 168" which was just amber/yellow. While most non-working orange LEDs were due to a bad connection, Some of them were actually turning off, cooling down, and turning back on. The cycle would be 5 seconds on, 20 off or so. They were over-driven and not responding well. They were too hot to touch.
My dome light LEDs also don't sit in the socket properly and require a Fonzi hit every once in a while.
Soldering SMDs sucks and some of my dash lights don't stay on now. As a result I'm coming up with a new design for the gauge cluster using Superflux LEDs placed as needed, instead of clusters placed where the original bulbs were. I'm also going to hit the HVAC board with the heat gun and try and fix a couple of intermittent LEDs there, too (... also my work replacing with orange).
Then again, I put much more scrutiny and negativity on anything I either made/modified or believe I can modify to be better than how I bought it...
