No RAP wire in 1st gen without moonroof?

[theophile]

2002 V8 sport, no moonroof. I've been hunting all night for a RAP wire and I think I may be out of luck. The passenger C pillar harness doesn't have the moonroof writing that most people have tapped into successfully, and after studying wiring diagrams of the power windows and trial and error with a voltmeter, I don't think there's a RAP wire in the driver door either.

It looks like the RAP for the windows is handled by the driver door module. It gets constant +12V in, and has yellow and White going to the window motor. One is +12V when window switch pressed up and the other is +12V when the window switch is pressed down. None of the wires demonstrate expected RAP behavior, and I have checked them all for positive and negative trigger. This makes me think it's handled by the window module using the data bus.

If anyone has gotten this to work in a 1st gen without a moonroof, I'd love to hear from you.

 

[LS4me]

2002 V8 sport, no moonroof. I've been hunting all night for a RAP wire and I think I may be out of luck. The passenger C pillar harness doesn't have the moonroof writing that most people have tapped into successfully, and after studying wiring diagrams of the power windows and trial and error with a voltmeter, I don't think there's a RAP wire in the driver door either.

It looks like the RAP for the windows is handled by the driver door module. It gets constant +12V in, and has yellow and White going to the window motor. One is +12V when window switch pressed up and the other is +12V when the window switch is pressed down. None of the wires demonstrate expected RAP behavior, and I have checked them all for positive and negative trigger. This makes me think it's handled by the window module using the data bus.

If anyone has gotten this to work in a 1st gen without a moonroof, I'd love to hear from you.

I used a line converter off of a speaker wire.

 

[joegr]

I used a line converter off of a speaker wire.

What?
He's talking about the Retained Accessory Power wire, the radio staying on when you turn the key off until you open the driver's door (or ten minutes expires). I think you are talking about the remote amp turn-on wire?

 

[joegr]

I think that you will still have the ability to do this. Even though the wires aren't there, the signals to the non-existent moon roof should still be available at the REM (in the trunk, behind the light). Pins 14 and 15 of connector C420C are the ones that you need. Unfortunately, on the gen I, there isn't a simple RAP signal. Instead, there are these two lines that have up to four different states (one off - two off, one on - two off, one on - two on, one off - two on). I forget which of those four is for retained power. There is a thread on here somewhere that did indicate which it is. Basically, you will need two relays to make this work.

 

[LS4me]

What?
He's talking about the Retained Accessory Power wire, the radio staying on when you turn the key off until you open the driver's door (or ten minutes expires). I think you are talking about the remote amp turn-on wire?

I thought he wanted access to a RAP to add an accessory......

 

[joegr]

I thought he wanted access to a RAP to add an accessory......

Sorry, I assumed he was replacing the headunit.

You know what happens when you assume...

 

[LS4me]

Sorry, I assumed he was replacing the headunit.

You know what happens when you assume...

Been there!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[theophile]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I am replacing the HU. That's good to know about the REM. I'll search for that thread. It had also occurred to me that if all else failed, I suppose it could be possible to pick up a used roof panel control module and add it in just to get the RAP pin out.

Side note: Having a southern-owned car sure is nice from a no-rust perspective, but the flip side is sun damage. My C pillars shattered when I removed them, and the plastic was dark yellow and brittle. Going to have to find new ones in the yard or else get creative with epoxy.

 

[LS4me]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I am replacing the HU. That's good to know about the REM. I'll search for that thread. It had also occurred to me that if all else failed, I suppose it could be possible to pick up a used roof panel control module and add it in just to get the RAP pin out.

Side note: Having a southern-owned car sure is nice from a no-rust perspective, but the flip side is sun damage. My C pillars shattered when I removed them, and the plastic was dark yellow and brittle. Going to have to find new ones in the yard or else get creative with epoxy.

I thought the HU controlled the delay......

 

[1LoudLS]

it does, which is why there is no RAP wire at the radio, its read through data by the radio. but other places use RAP too, and you can tap into it and use it to give this feature to an aftermarket radio.

 

[joegr]

it does, which is why there is no RAP wire at the radio, its read through data by the radio. but other places use RAP too, and you can tap into it and use it to give this feature to an aftermarket radio.

Exactly what I did on both of my LSes. However, there is an exception to "there is no RAP wire at the radio." In the case of the THX nav, an RAP wire actually does run to that headunit.

 

[1LoudLS]

ExIn the case of the THX nav, an RAP wire actually does run to that headunit.

true.

 

[theophile]

I think that you will still have the ability to do this. Even though the wires aren't there, the signals to the non-existent moon roof should still be available at the REM (in the trunk, behind the light). Pins 14 and 15 of connector C420C are the ones that you need. Unfortunately, on the gen I, there isn't a simple RAP signal. Instead, there are these two lines that have up to four different states (one off - two off, one on - two off, one on - two on, one off - two on). I forget which of those four is for retained power. There is a thread on here somewhere that did indicate which it is. Basically, you will need two relays to make this work.

I may not be using quite the right search terms but I've not been able to find the thread you mentioned. I found the one discussing the moonroof wire and the need to use a relay due to the negative trigger, but not one discussing a two-relay setup for getting RAP off the REM. Anything else about the thread you can recall that might help me turn it up? TIA!

 

[joegr]

I may not be using quite the right search terms but I've not been able to find the thread you mentioned. I found the one discussing the moonroof wire and the need to use a relay due to the negative trigger, but not one discussing a two-relay setup for getting RAP off the REM. Anything else about the thread you can recall that might help me turn it up? TIA!

Sounds like you found the correct thread. He never went "all the way" and added two relays so that the derived RAP signal only triggered when it really should.