Due to a coolant leak I had the coolant inlet pipe replaced the other week by Firestone. No more coolant leaking but my fans come on and stay on. I took it back and reminded them that these cars must be "Burped" when replacing anything on the cooling system. The technician said that he did burp the system and their was no more air in the system. I left it there overnight for them to double check anyway. They called me the next day and I was told that the fans on these cars are meant to stay on all the time. I was like no they are not because they didn't come on before. Long story short, my fans still come on when it reaches operating temp and they don't go off! Even while sitting at idle and no load is on the engine. A/C is off as well. What should I do? I want to demand my money back, but I need to know where in the service manual that it talks about cooling fan operation so I can show them that the fans are not supposed to stay on. I will also need to prove it just in case this thing goes to court!
Pissed off (Cooling issue)
- Thread starter sexyLS
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Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
When one part goes on the cooling system, everything cooling must be replaced with the exception of the radiator and maybe (MAYBE) the DCCV. Lincoln did not use a coolant-friendly plastic in their cooling system, and the car is such a short run model that they aren't going to bother changing the plastic to fix the issue. You can't blame Firestone for not knowing this, but they shouldn't be telling you the fans have to be on all the time.
If you want to press them on it, ask them that if they are confident that there are no other problems with the car and that the fans should be on all the time, if they will give you a written guarantee that if the car overheats they will cover all engine repairs. See what they say to that, although I think you'd do better to just ask them to replace all the plastic, then burp the system.
If you want to press them on it, ask them that if they are confident that there are no other problems with the car and that the fans should be on all the time, if they will give you a written guarantee that if the car overheats they will cover all engine repairs. See what they say to that, although I think you'd do better to just ask them to replace all the plastic, then burp the system.
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
What's the year and engine. With out that info there's no way to help you.
2000-2002 fans run constantly because its hydrolic and fluctuate with rpm.
2003-up are electric.
2000-2002 fans run constantly because its hydrolic and fluctuate with rpm.
2003-up are electric.
04 3.9 V8. I have replaced all of the cooling part already including thermostat housing the coolant outlet pipe, the coolant inlet pipe, a piece on the back of the engine but again they should not tell me that the engine cooling fans should stay on all the time when it reaches operating temp otherwise there will be no need for the sensor to tell the computer when to turn them off
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
What kind of LS do you have that has "fans?" I only every seen LSes (gen I and gen II) with one single engine cooling fan.
Yes, the electric fan should be off at first engine start up, if the AC is off and it is cool outside. I keep my AC on year round, so the fan is always on for me.
All of your plastic cooling system parts need to be changed. Do them all now and you won't have to worry about them again for several years. Also, they need to follow the exact factory procedure for bleeding, not just some generic "burping." I would never use Firestone for that kind of work on an LS.
Yes, the electric fan should be off at first engine start up, if the AC is off and it is cool outside. I keep my AC on year round, so the fan is always on for me.
All of your plastic cooling system parts need to be changed. Do them all now and you won't have to worry about them again for several years. Also, they need to follow the exact factory procedure for bleeding, not just some generic "burping." I would never use Firestone for that kind of work on an LS.
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
Joegr
Just answered your question, if you run the system in automatic temp control then yes your fan will spin constantly. Since the A/C is being called for, my suggestion is that you take the time and burp the system your self, or have the dealer do it by flushing the system with vacuum pressure. Also look at your degass bottle and cap make sure the cap is holding pressure and the degass bottle does not have any cracks.
There are very few big box shops that know how to really work on the ls. Search this site for your problems and read through the valuable info here then take that info with you and have them do the procedure right. While you watch them. Cause the bleeding procedure could be done once or take as many as up to but not limited to 7 times to get it done correctly when it's done Manuelly, and there is still no guarantee all the air is out.
Just answered your question, if you run the system in automatic temp control then yes your fan will spin constantly. Since the A/C is being called for, my suggestion is that you take the time and burp the system your self, or have the dealer do it by flushing the system with vacuum pressure. Also look at your degass bottle and cap make sure the cap is holding pressure and the degass bottle does not have any cracks.
There are very few big box shops that know how to really work on the ls. Search this site for your problems and read through the valuable info here then take that info with you and have them do the procedure right. While you watch them. Cause the bleeding procedure could be done once or take as many as up to but not limited to 7 times to get it done correctly when it's done Manuelly, and there is still no guarantee all the air is out.
RigsLS
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I don't get it ... why so many have Fn difficulties bleeding this LS correctly !?!?!
Are folks holding the revs up at all for a while, perhaps not running it long enough for the thermostat to pop and circulate? I always said it's a much easier process with a second person involved. Have to keep the revs up and run it long enough to get it up to temp and get the system to pressurize while it gets the chance to run the air out. Like bleeding brakes!!!
Are folks holding the revs up at all for a while, perhaps not running it long enough for the thermostat to pop and circulate? I always said it's a much easier process with a second person involved. Have to keep the revs up and run it long enough to get it up to temp and get the system to pressurize while it gets the chance to run the air out. Like bleeding brakes!!!
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
Quick question, when you top everything off close up the degass bottle close the engine fill, with heater bleed still open, hold rev at 2000 till a stream of coolant run from the heater bleed then close the heater bleed?
If that's the case then the tech article for bleeding is misleading cause it makes people assume that you close the heater bleed after five or so minutes then rev the engine.
RigsLS
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I had requested the person behind the wheel to hold the revs steady close to 3K, I got confirmation of 2700 and holding, heater demand on full blast, had both fill neck at stat housing and degas bottle open when I began, level dropped inside stat housing when engine started, I continued to fill and kept it at the rim level until it would take no more, while I was doing this, I was massaging the hoses and burping some air out the fill neck. Bleed valve was closed all this time. Observed level was not dropping anymore at the stat housing and only then closed the fill neck, kept the degas cap off and topped up a bit also, didn't seem to go down anymore. At this point in time both caps on, continued to have the RPM's kept up and got confirmation that some heat was beginning to come from the vents. Began to open bleed valve and got some air out, closed, opened and closed it about a handful of times, each time less air spitting out.
Eventually, the stat popped during keeping of high RPMs, received confirmation full hot heat coming from vents and up to mid temp on gauge.
opened the bleed valve one more time to only confirm a steady stream of coolant.
shut it down to complete cool, opened degas bottle and topped up to cold level,
restarted and allowed to come to mid level engine temp with raised consistent RPMS, opened the bleed valve again to confirm no more air spitting... DONE, no prob since.
Eventually, the stat popped during keeping of high RPMs, received confirmation full hot heat coming from vents and up to mid temp on gauge.
opened the bleed valve one more time to only confirm a steady stream of coolant.
shut it down to complete cool, opened degas bottle and topped up to cold level,
restarted and allowed to come to mid level engine temp with raised consistent RPMS, opened the bleed valve again to confirm no more air spitting... DONE, no prob since.
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
So what your saying is drain the fluid from a complete cold start, start the engine get the revs up leave the heater bleed closed opens degass bottle,open engine fill, fill at the engine fill until no more coolant can be added close engine fill top off the degass bottle until no more can be added close degass bottle, all this should take place before the engine reaches op temp. The heater bleed should only be open and closed not completely removed . Which I think is my biggest mistake, at this point.
RigsLS
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Ahhhh, "drain the fluid from a complete cold start" ... I only bled it at the point when it got up to temp when the system developed pressure.
When started, I had it closed and (bleed screw never completely removed) completed the fill and getting it up to temp first.
Kept filling at the fill neck while burping the hoses, closed it at the fill neck when it leveled out. topped up the degas and only closed it when engine started to provide some heat at the vents. then allowed air to escape at the bleed valve by opening the screw slightly as to only just get a run of coolant. It would then spit some air, opening and closing until a consistent stream. At that point the system is already so much up to temp the pressure is returning into the degas bottle.
Complete cool down and repeat bleeding only. Should only have to add coolant at the degas bottle. (cold level)
When started, I had it closed and (bleed screw never completely removed) completed the fill and getting it up to temp first.
Kept filling at the fill neck while burping the hoses, closed it at the fill neck when it leveled out. topped up the degas and only closed it when engine started to provide some heat at the vents. then allowed air to escape at the bleed valve by opening the screw slightly as to only just get a run of coolant. It would then spit some air, opening and closing until a consistent stream. At that point the system is already so much up to temp the pressure is returning into the degas bottle.
Complete cool down and repeat bleeding only. Should only have to add coolant at the degas bottle. (cold level)