Best place to buy LS V8 Sport rear springs?

LOL! hard to argue with that - even in a shortened season they are not doing well.


Did we even "TRY" to "BUY" a goal from you guys the other night ?
We have excuses of course, 6 of our top guys are out.
 
I just bought a pair of front struts but after reading this post, im strongly thinking about puting a order in for some Eibach springs. Only thing is, I dont want to have my car lowered since im only getting the front struts done. Do I have to lower my car if I get the eibach?

Also, I saw an strut assembly kit on ebay but I remember reading that motorcraft does not make kits for struts. I added the link from ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORCRAFT-...:LS|Submodel:Base&hash=item27d00e24d6&vxp=mtr
 
I have 4 factory sports springs from a 2003 LS with 60K miles. These keep ride height the same but with increased spring rate. Eibach will lower car and increase sprong rate. Also, when car is lowered alignment will be way out. You will need camber bolts for front, Ford are inpensive. Back is not adjustable and you will have to slot holes for lower arm to get it back in alignment, a PITA.

But my springs are for sale. PM me if interested.
 
I have 4 factory sports springs from a 2003 LS with 60K miles. These keep ride height the same but with increased spring rate. Eibach will lower car and increase sprong rate. Also, when car is lowered alignment will be way out. You will need camber bolts for front, Ford are inpensive. Back is not adjustable and you will have to slot holes for lower arm to get it back in alignment, a PITA.

But my springs are for sale. PM me if interested.

Now that's a good sales pitch ;)
 
I have 4 factory sports springs from a 2003 LS with 60K miles. These keep ride height the same but with increased spring rate. You will need camber bolts for front, Ford are inpensive. Back is not adjustable and you will have to slot holes for lower arm to get it back in alignment, a PITA.

Not really accurate. Eibachs will put the camber, front and rear, at the very edge, or slightly over, the window. IIRC, you'll get 1.1º negative camber with the max being 1º. Slotting the rear control arms is dangerous at best. It is extremely unwise to drill, let alone slot a cast aluminum piece.

I have the Eibachs and my alignment shop was able to get the front alignment very close (-1º) without the adjustment bolts. That said, I will be installing the bolts at my next alignment.
 
You can't slot the control arms, each attachment point = bushing.

He was talking about slotting the holes on the subframe.
 
You slot the frame where the bolt goes through for the lower control arm. Its steel. And I'm not the only one who used a grinding bit to slot the attachment holes. Thanks M4rk for clarifying.

When I installed Eibach it changed my front camber to -1.5 and rear to -2.0 (worse sides). This would be great for the road course, but not highway driving. Even though the -1.0 front camber may be within specs, it will result in premature tire wear also again unless your a corner carver. Mine came from the factory at -.3 front and -1.0 rear for the average driver, this is where it should be. Don't believe me, just ask you alignment shops.
 

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