One last wiring project...

[blwnbyu]

I have one last wiring project left on my car.. It took me awhile to decide what system I wanted to use.. I already had a brand new, complete Compustar Remote Start and Alarm at home, but it was a few years old, and would not be ugradeable to the Drone Mobile Service (using your cell phone as a remote)

So I decided to spend a few bucks and order Compustar's newest, baddest system.. My old Boss sold it to me at cost, so it all worked out pretty good.

I've installed close to thousand systems, and there is nothing that I like more than Compustar. These guys make a GREAT product and have the best customer service I've ever dealt with..


Anyhow.. here is a link to the remotes..

http://www.compustar.com/remotes/RF-P2W901-SS.php

Both Remotes are two way with 1 mile range.. One is an LCD, the other uses LED's for feedback.. I can also use my phone as a remote after I purchase the service..

I may wire in a trigger for the heated seats.. I have not decided yet. The system has programmable outputs, which can be set to latch, and will trigger things like the heated seats if you want.. I also borrowed a programmer so I can change menu options easier..


Here is the mess of wires that I get to deal with..

Looks intimidating.. I know..

Boxes..

Remotes compared to the factory fob..

The new LCD remote uses a micro usb and has a rechargeable battery.. That is hands down the biggest improvement because they were able to get rid of the AA battery and in doing so, slimmed the remote down ALOT.. It is no thicker than the factory remote now..



I'll be installing the system tomorrow, and I'll take some pics as I go..

The immobilizer bypass is also built into the brain.. They are using a system called BLADE, and it is just a cartridge that slides into a port on the brain.. Really slick..

The system also has a shock sensor, temp sensor, voltage sensor, and I added the keyless keypad, which works just like the factory one on Second Gens, but sticks to the windshield instead.

 

[Andrizzle]

A keypad that sticks to the windshield..?

But...But why?

 

[blwnbyu]

A keypad that sticks to the windshield..?

But...But why?

So... so I don't have to carry keys

 

[joegr]

A keypad that sticks to the windshield..?

But...But why?

If you don't have the keypad on the door (or windshield) you don't know what you are missing.

I can't get accidentally locked out of my car.

I can stop somewhere and leave the engine (and the air conditioning) running.

I can go to the beach and lock my keys and everything else that I don't want to keep up with in my car.

 

[blwnbyu]

If you don't have the keypad on the door (or windshield) you don't know what you are missing.

I can't get accidentally locked out of my car.

I can stop somewhere and leave the engine (and the air conditioning) running.

I can go to the beach and lock my keys and everything else that I don't want to keep up with in my car.

Bingo...

This is what it looks like.. It's very low key, and will never be seen.. All of my systems have had these as well, but they use to require a knock knock pattern, and now they can tell what part of the pad you hit. It goes on the inside of the windshield down by the vin..

One of my biggest complaints on the gen 1 is no keypad.. second is no heated rear seats..

oh well.

 

[L_King]

whats the controller DT thing do? is that the brain for the compustar? I am looking at this kit as well, or at least this brand.

 

[blwnbyu]

whats the controller DT thing do? is that the brain for the compustar? I am looking at this kit as well, or at least this brand.

The systems are modular.. There are only 3 brains..

A starter.
An Alarm
And an Alarm/Starter

Then you choose whatever remote/antenna you want to use..


I used to install these and other brands.. There is no other brand out there that came close in reliability OR ease of install. I truly cannot speak highly enough of these guys..

 

[blwnbyu]

Got the system installed finally..

I hate working on these cars. That was one of the biggest pain in the ass installs that I've ever had to do. If anyone plans on installing one on their own, I shall laugh at you..

Anyhow....

Here is a screen shot from my Galaxy S3 of the Dronemobile setup.. I don't have to carry any keys or anything but my cellphone.

Can use GPS to find where I parked it, track, or remotely even prevent it from starting.

 

[RigsLS]

SOL when you leave the phone in the LS now huh ?

j/k

blwn, looks great, I've been amazed with all your electronics wiring threads (and your pic quality)

Any chance you'd come work on my LS ? nvm

 

[blwnbyu]

SOL when you leave the phone in the LS now huh ?

j/k

blwn, looks great, I've been amazed with all your electronics wiring threads (and your pic quality)

Any chance you'd come work on my LS ? nvm

Thank you.. I have alot of time invested in those projects.. I do have pics, but haven't taken them off my camera yet.

As for the alarm, I wouldn't be able to lock it without my phone, or remote..

But, I also have this on the windshield, so it's technically impossible to lock myself out as long as the battery is not dead.

http://www.compustar.com/Accessories/FT-RPS-touch.php

 

[RigsLS]

What will they think of next.

 

[1LoudLS]

when you go to put in in tomorrow, one of the trickiest parts is your lock, unlock and disarm wires are all inside the door at the DDM. you will want to tie two of the programmable output channels, one to the lock and one to the unlock wires at the brain (use diodes to isolate them) and set the output to a timed trigger (around 20-30 secs) so that you can also roll up or down the windows from the remotes.




and as far as what they are doing next, you should also scoop up a EZGO remote kit. its a small little fob that goes on their keys (we gave their trainer hell for not building them into some of the remotes) and it will unlock your car when ever you get right up next to it!!! kinda lame that it wont lock your car as you walk away from it though.

 

[1LoudLS]

As for the alarm, I wouldn't be able to lock it without my phone, or remote..

exactly, this drives me crazy about my viper, i have the keypad on the door, but i can only use it for emergencys because while it will unlock the door and disable the factory alarm it can not disable the viper alarm.




also I'm very curious to see how that compustar is going to handle the door triggers if it has an alarm. since the door triggers are normally closed (the opposite as 99% of other cars) i know the newer vipers have a setting for that but it wont work because when the cars modules fall asleep, there is a very high resistance to ground through the wires and the viper will false alarm every time as soon as it falls asleep. they way i have always over came that was to monitor the doom light wire instead and because of the resistance to ground issue (the same reason LED cabin lights glow a tiny bit) i have to use a relay triggered off of the dome light wire to send ground to the door trigger. but then because of the dimming feature of the doom light, as it fades it triggers the relays over and over about 100 time in a couple of seconds. AKA giving you the "box of bees" or the welcome buzz as i like to call it...

i will really be hopping on the compustar band wagon if it just works with out all the bull sh!t! im already loving the sh!t out of the BLADE bypasses.

 

[blwnbyu]

when you go to put in in tomorrow, one of the trickiest parts is your lock, unlock and disarm wires are all inside the door at the DDM. you will want to tie two of the programmable output channels, one to the lock and one to the unlock wires at the brain (use diodes to isolate them) and set the output to a timed trigger (around 20-30 secs) so that you can also roll up or down the windows from the remotes.




and as far as what they are doing next, you should also scoop up a EZGO remote kit. its a small little fob that goes on their keys (we gave their trainer hell for not building them into some of the remotes) and it will unlock your car when ever you get right up next to it!!! kinda lame that it wont lock your car as you walk away from it though.

I didn't bother with the window's because I wasn't quite sure how they worked... But now I might have to add that feature. I still have an extra wire run thru the door jam that I could use.

exactly, this drives me crazy about my viper, i have the keypad on the door, but i can only use it for emergencys because while it will unlock the door and disable the factory alarm it can not disable the viper alarm.




also I'm very curious to see how that compustar is going to handle the door triggers if it has an alarm. since the door triggers are normally closed (the opposite as 99% of other cars) i know the newer vipers have a setting for that but it wont work because when the cars modules fall asleep, there is a very high resistance to ground through the wires and the viper will false alarm every time as soon as it falls asleep. they way i have always over came that was to monitor the doom light wire instead and because of the resistance to ground issue (the same reason LED cabin lights glow a tiny bit) i have to use a relay triggered off of the dome light wire to send ground to the door trigger. but then because of the dimming feature of the doom light, as it fades it triggers the relays over and over about 100 time in a couple of seconds. AKA giving you the "box of bees" or the welcome buzz as i like to call it...

i will really be hopping on the compustar band wagon if it just works with out all the bull sh!t! im already loving the sh!t out of the BLADE bypasses.

I have always loved Compustar and do so more than ever now.. The BLADE system ROCKS!..

I looked at the ezgo but didn't really find much use for it.. I mainly just wanted the remote start as well as alarm for when I'm working in ****ty parts of the country.. I don't really need an alarm around here, but it always gives me piece of mind.

I have full compustar systems in both my other cars as well.. And did the DEI window modules on the Cobra. I love how I never have to wait to roll my windows up when I park somewhere, especially since they are always down because I removed the A/C.

 

[fudge12]

I'm planning to put an aftermarket alarm in my car also, maybe similar to the one you have. Does the aftermarket alarm require you to have another key? Also does it completely bypass PATS? Awesome setup by the way.

 

[blwnbyu]

I'm planning to put an aftermarket alarm in my car also, maybe similar to the one you have. Does the aftermarket alarm require you to have another key? Also does it completely bypass PATS? Awesome setup by the way.

Most bypasses just require two keys for programming, but do not make you give any up..


Pats is only bypassed when the remote start is activated.

You have to tap into the two data wires for the transponder, and then act as if you are programming another key, but instead of inserting a new key, you just hit the remote start and the computer learns the bypass instead.

 

[1LoudLS]

as mentioned ^, the bypass is only during RS, and you dont need a new key, just two for easy programming (like adding the bypass as a third key), or now with the new ADS blade software, you can klon (clone) it off of just one key if that is all you have.

 

[1LoudLS]

I didn't bother with the window's because I wasn't quite sure how they worked... But now I might have to add that feature.

it is super simple how it works, your lock and unlock/disarm wires, are the wires coming off of the key cylinder going into the DDM, so just like turning the key in the door, a short pulse will wither lock or unlock (depending on the wire) and a longer pulse with start to roll the windows up or down (about 20 secs is all that is needed for full opperation)

and if you have the lock wires allready hooked up, then adding that feature is pretty easy because you can just tap the extra feature wires in to the same wires that already run into the door.

 

[blwnbyu]

it is super simple how it works, your lock and unlock/disarm wires, are the wires coming off of the key cylinder going into the DDM, so just like turning the key in the door, a short pulse will wither lock or unlock (depending on the wire) and a longer pulse with start to roll the windows up or down (about 20 secs is all that is needed for full opperation)

and if you have the lock wires allready hooked up, then adding that feature is pretty easy because you can just tap the extra feature wires in to the same wires that already run into the door.

Ok, I'm getting ready to hook up my programmable outputs and a few other things that I didn't install originally..



I feel retarded sitting here thinking about this. I read in another post you said that you needed TWO diodes per wire?

I'm trying to figure out if I can just tap into lock/unlock at the brain with a diode on each Programmable Output (facing towards the output)

OR

If I have to CUT the doorlock wires, and add a diode on both the brain's doorlock wires AND on the Programmable outputs?

 

[1LoudLS]

OR

If I have to CUT the doorlock wires, and add a diode on both the brain's doorlock wires AND on the Programmable outputs?

this is how i always do it anytime i have to connect multiple wires together for different options, you never can know what wired problems you might run into from signals back feeding into the brain.

 

[blwnbyu]

this is how i always do it anytime i have to connect multiple wires together for different options, you never can know what wired problems you might run into from signals back feeding into the brain.

Thank you for the quick reply.. I'm pulling her back apart now.
I have been waiting for a factory looking hood pin to come in. I didn't like the look of the regular pin-style one.. OCD gets the best of me lol.

I'm also mounting the door trigger isolation relay in the trunk by the battery since i have power and ground right there, then I'll run the two wires up front along with the trunk pin that I hadn't hooked up either.

I can say after all this is done that I'm officially sick of wiring on this car lol.. Many many hours into the stereo, backup camera, nav, sat, bluetooth, ipod, angel eyes, remote start, alarm, amps, components, and sub..

 

[blwnbyu]

Got the new hood pin in, as well as hooked up the trunk pin.. Ended up having to use the light in the trunk for trunk trigger.. It doesn't seem to have a voltage spike problem when the Gem goes to sleep, so all is well there.

I also added the door trigger Isolation relay, and put it in the spare tire well by the battery and mounted it on a piece of dynamat. Now it just sounds like my car squeezes out a tiny fart when the lights dim lol. With the doors closed and seats up I can't hear it anymore.

I dug out the wires I'll use for the window up/down, but didn't hook them up because I need the OP500 programmer to change the settings first. I'll do that when I go visit my old shop next week.

Almost done for good!!!





I also tested the range the other day.. I got 1.1 mile through forest and down in a ravine before I lost signal, which is far more than the old spread spectrum remotes got..

Overall, I'm more than impressed with this new system!!!

 

[blwnbyu]

Well ****.. The light in the trunk causes a false alarm as well, so I will be adding yet one more relay.. Thankfully I already have the one relay wired up in the trunk, so the second will be easy..

I have NEVER experienced a car that was this big of a pain in the ass to install an alarm properly.. EVER..


Remote start? No problem..

But installing the alarm so you have functioning trunk, door, and hood triggers is a nightmare...

 

[1LoudLS]

this car used more relays than any other car i have ever done...

door trigger, trunk trigger, extra ignition circuit, the trunk pop, the gas door pop (only one of the last two was actually high current, but when doing it i couldn't remember which so i just put one on both)

then i used two relays for my HID headlights and foglights



then when i was doing my LED conversion, i drilled a set of holes in the fixture to xpoxy another LED bulb in there (UV) controlled off of a switch for a set of cruising lights. and the type of i wanted to use was a momentary push button (real small) so i found out how to make a pulse switch have a latching effect and could be reset when the ignition is turned off from the12 volt.com that uses 4 relays and a diode or two.



thank god for Directed micro relays (8616), other wise i would have to make a whole other fuse box for the car...lol

 

[1LoudLS]

I can say after all this is done that I'm officially sick of wiring on this car lol.. Many many hours into the stereo, backup camera, nav, sat, bluetooth, ipod, angel eyes, remote start, alarm, amps, components, and sub..

you think your tired, now imagine your LS gets wrecked out and you have to start over on a brand new LS!!!! and on top of that there are a bunch of tiny little changes that need to be adjusted for...