Im about to tackle the VCGsany thing else??

[StinkinLS]

So going to do the VCG s this weekend also planning on doing to fill tube o-ring is the anything else i need to do when i when i have the vavle covers off,would like to knock out as much as possible, thanks.

 

[RigsLS]

be sure to check the rubber seal on the oil fill neck, make sure it's not leaking, should be able to tell by the Valve Cover around the neck where it twists in.

Inspect your timing chain tentioners and guides all around, same with the chains.

Seal the deal with some fresh Plugs & coils, ensuring the coil covers seals are in tact.

Verify the hood cowling seal is in good condition as not to have rain water leak onto the rear most area of the coil covers.

Clean the MAF, new fresh air intake filter, maybe even a new A/C cab filter, oil change, can of STP injector cleaner in the tank and your golden.


Just your general LS TLC moment.


good luck.

 

[2002_lincolnLS]

There are several threads about the VCG's may want to look at them as many of have some handy tricks for removing them, as the driver side can be a pain.

 

[StinkinLS]

Thanks guys i have already had the coils and plugs changed but found out here that they went out probsbly because of the oil leak, so gonna take care of that asap

 

[StinkinLS]

What part should i ask for when asking about the oil fill tube seal, i wss thinking it was an oring

 

[RigsLS]

Well ... only get the new rubber o-ring gasket seal for the filler neck if there is actual dampness from oil that leaked onto the driver side valve cover.

No sure about the part number, sorry.

Here's some thread about it;

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=51877

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=32038

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=14268



but like I said, only mess with it if it shows signs of leakage around the bottom,
if not, then leave well enough alone.

 

[2002_lincolnLS]

Thanks guys i have already had the coils and plugs changed but found out here that they went out probsbly because of the oil leak, so gonna take care of that asap

It's a common misconception but actually the couls fail due to the epoxy breaking down inside them

 

[RigsLS]

... couls fail due to the epoxy breaking down ...

Ignition coils will fail due to excessive thermal cycling but epoxy break down alone is not the "root cause".
It is merely one of several possibilities to lead to the end result, known as the "general cause".

Internal break down, whether it be epoxy, windings or other numerous materials, are the direct result of excessive thermal cycling.
There is no wear-out factor in a coil itself other than thermal cycling and the damage it may cause.

There are many types or styles of ignition coils. Each with their own construction difficulties and possible failures.


Let's have a look at what the coil set out to do....

It is a timed event by means of sending voltage to fire a spark plug in order to create cylinder combustion.

Cylinder misfiring / lack of combustion
~ when a percentage of misfires rises within a coil, it's thermal content increases,
visual damage is often seen as cracks in the epoxy or housing.

What causes this ?

It may be due to a spark plug defect, a coil defect, defect in the boots seal or shorting associated within that cylinder.
When a connection to the spark plug opens or a plug becomes un-fireable, the voltage/heat within the coil will rise.

Worn, rounded spark plug electrodes aren't capable of efficiently focusing the high voltage.
As a result, it takes more voltage to fire worn plugs.

This "excessive thermal cycling" will create internal coil breakdown by means of further deterioration of the coil components.

The visual damage is often seen as cracks in the epoxy or housing.

We know the LS is known for leaking oil into the spark plug wells through it's inner boot well gasket. (not the outside gasket)
or even water and moisture from outside the engine compartment through the coil covers and coil boot housing seal.

This all (combined) leads to internal break down. Coil failures can also be the result of shorted windings.

... at least this is how I understand it but I've been known to be wrong before.

- - - - - EDIT:

@StinkinLS,

I wasn't suggesting that a leaking "oil filler tube seal" connected at the cover will result in failing coils.
It would only make a slight mess on the outside of your valve cover, at most causing oils to run near the hot exhaust manifold.

Just if you are doing your VCGs, it was something to look for/do to keep in check.

 

[RigsLS]

... also planning on doing to fill tube o-ring ...

Dude, I'm so sorry, I completely missed that and then proceeded to recommend the same.

my bad! :Bang

 

[blwnbyu]

Cleanliness!! I try to blow off all of the dirt and grime above the valvecovers before disassembling anything.. Other than that, and having to disconnect the fuel line on the drivers side, it was pretty uneventful.

 

[RigsLS]

@StinkinLS,

When you get that drivers side Valve Cover off, could you possibly take a picture of the inside of it where the filler neck turns into ?
I'd like to know and was wondering why it has to be undone from the inside, apparently it can not be loosened from outside.
Something about some clips on the inside of the valve cover that has to be undone first.

Please and thank you.

 

[StinkinLS]

Bigred no prob ill get pics, is there any way to check the timing chain and tentioner to see ifits ok? And the oring for the filler tube is backorder ed and the tube assembly is$50 so if i can't find an oring I'm going to use silicon sealer

 

[joegr]

Bigred no prob ill get pics, is there any way to check the timing chain and tentioner to see ifits ok? And the oring for the filler tube is backorder ed and the tube assembly is$50 so if i can't find an oring I'm going to use silicon sealer

Inspect the chain tensioners for cracks or missing pieces. Look for scratches where the chains might be hitting or rubbing on parts they shouldn't get that close to.

 

[RigsLS]

... so if i can't find an oring I'm going to use silicon sealer

If you're going to go that route, then be sure to use High-Temp RTV Silicone.
However, although it may last for a while, I'm not convinced it's a permanent solution.
It will eventually come undone.


little secret: mine is sweating/leaking around the filler tube inlet as well, nothing too serious.

 

[G-RELL]

If you're going to go that route, then be sure to use High-Temp RTV Silicone.
However, although it may last for a while, I'm not convinced it's a permanent solution.
It will eventually come undone.


little secret: mine is sweating/leaking around the filler tube inlet as well, nothing too serious.

mine was leaking (progressively got worse) HTRTV did not work and had to JBweld... and having the RTV made it tougher... so if you cant get it to stop, id recommend jumping straight to the JBweld ...(so would hite!!!)

 

[RigsLS]

There you go! more help!

F'd up why they made it so that it has to be undone from the inside of the cover,
I mean it is a seal that compresses when the neck is turned in and locked into place.

I don't get it ... must be a reason for it, other then profit sharing.