Crank, No Start Issue

Risky Business

Risky Business

New LVC Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
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Location
Bay City, MI
First of all, I want to say thanks for the info on this forum. I have been able to keep my LS on the road with the help from the knowledge base of the forum members. :Beer:

I hate to do this, but after a lot of time searching, I can't seem to find a solution to my problem.

I have a 2003 LS V8. ~107K Miles.

My issue started yesterday afternoon. I went to start the car and it would turn over, but wouldn't start. The message center displays ETC Failsafe, AdvanceTrack, and Gear Shift Selector Errors. The PATS light blinks a 1.6 code. I hookup a cheap OBD II reader I have laying around and it won't connect (connects fine to my wife's car).

A little history since I've owned the car (Aug '12). First repair was a bad COP and plug (#1 Cylinder) to remedy a misfire. That weekend I replaced all the COPs, plugs, and VCGs. Ran great.

About a month later, start the car, horn starts honking. I replaced the battery with a battery from NAPA. It was a model specific battery with a vent. But I didn't reattach the vent. :slam:

I have checked all of the fuses (I did find a rear heated seat fuse blown. Didn't realize I had rear heated seats. Bonus!) and they seem to be fine. I swapped the PCM relay under the hood with the wiper heater relay and another new in box relay I had from my Jeep. No luck.

Unhooked the battery for an hour and pressed the brake pedal to discharge the electrical system.

Tried both keys, and put them in both ways.

Turned the key back and forth a bunch of times.

Nothing.

I know I'm not the first person to have this issue. I have found a couple threads with very similar issues, but they don't really say what was done to successfully resolve the problem.

At this point, I am at a loss. Bad PCM?

Any Help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Why did you not reconnect the vent? In addition to the danger of a hydrogen explosion inside the cabin of the car, you are also venting corrosive gases into the trunk where some of the electronics are.


I'd check the relays, relay sockets, and fuses in the trunk junction box.
 
I'm not sure if the vent was attached when I replaced it or not. It was dark when I replaced it. I've never had a vehicle with a vent on it. Just a few excuses I'm gonna go with. :slam:
I put a new battery in it this afternoon and made sure the vent was reattached.

When I removed the relays in the trunk, I could hear them click when I reinserted them (Except relay 3, for the rear defrost. Might be why it's not working.). The other fuses in the trunk junction box were all fine and there didn't seem to be any corrosion in the sockets. Would it be worth trying to spray some contact cleaner in there?
 
With the PCMs in these cars, you have to have them married to the car, correct? Should I just take it to the dealership in the morning? There isn't much else I can do at this point?
 
Risky Business said:
With the PCMs in these cars, you have to have them married to the car, correct? Should I just take it to the dealership in the morning? There isn't much else I can do at this point?
Click to expand...

Yes, you do have to have the PCM, the cluster, and the keys all married together.
I suspect that a dealer diagnostic is a good idea for you at this point.
 
Got the car back yesterday. Apparently there was a wiring issue from a front end fender bender the car was in. Some chaffing in the harness that caused an interruption in continuity. No power to the PCM. All fixed now; along with some other wires that showed some damage.

Thanks again for your help and time, joegr. :Beer
 
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