Heat issue

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seanjhon002

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Hello everyone!!

2002 ls v8 114,000

Just have a few quick questions. I know that some have said on here that the no heat issue has to do with coolant system issue-leak,dccv,aux pump, etc.

I have replaced the degas bottle (thanks for write up), changed thermostat. so now i still have no heat. Bled the system correctly.
How long to the auxillary pumps last typically? I had this replaced about three years ago. Wondering maybe if it is going out or out?

Also after doing some searches some have said the DCCV valve could also be the issue. Would this cause no heat whatsoever? I have read about it causing abnormal issues with heat, but being fully out would it cause no heat at all?

OH, and to check the aux pump, i was trying to find where and how to test it. What pipes do i check to see if they are hot or cold in order to tell if aux pump is out?

Thanks
 
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Aux pump failed = no heat at idle. You should still get heat at highway speeds.

DCCV failed = usually heat all the time. However, sometimes they do get stuck closed and you have no heat at all.

Warm the engine up and open the heater bleed with it running (careful not to burn yourself). If you get any air out at all, you have a cooling system leak and that is your problem.

Run the DATC self test. Maybe your bypass door is stuck in bypass.

Unplug the DCCV. If you get full heat then, you have a temperature sensor problem with the DATC.
 
Thanks Joe,

DCCV, that is located passenger side in front of radiator correct? Is there a easy way to get to it besides lifting car up? (maybe taking off air intake pipe and reaching down)

DATC self test, if error, would it be the sensor i would have to replace. Any diagram where all this stuff is?
 
seanjhon002 said:
Thanks Joe,

DCCV, that is located passenger side in front of radiator correct? Is there a easy way to get to it besides lifting car up? (maybe taking off air intake pipe and reaching down)

DATC self test, if error, would it be the sensor i would have to replace. Any diagram where all this stuff is?
Click to expand...

I would say that it is "behind" the radiator (between the radiator and the engine, not between the radiator and the grill). Post any DATC codes. They won't say exactly what is wrong, only where to look for the problem(s).
 
Would there be one in particular that would asst in the matter of having no heat?
 
Does anyone have the DATC test procedure for a lincoln 2002 v8 tried searching and looking in owners manual, and couldnt find, maybe im putting in wrong keyword in search.
 
Front Panel DATC Module Self-Test (On-demand Diagnostic Trouble Codes—DTCs)
On-demand DTCs are those that are reported by an ECU when a failure is detected while executing a diagnostic test. For the DATC module this means that all faults (hard) that occur while the module is conducting a self-test shall be reported as an on-demand DTC.

* The DATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages such as engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. The scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
* The vehicle interior temperature should be between 0-32°C (32-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false temperature sensor DTCs may be displayed.

The DATC module self-test through the front panel display:

* can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
* is entered by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show counts of 1 to 25 in the center of the display window. Record all DTCs displayed.
* concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given.
* reports individual on-demand DTCs as four-digit DTCs (less the alpha character).
* will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test.
* will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected.
* will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.

To exit the self-test, press any button. This will clear all on-demand codes from the DATC module memory. If no button is pushed DTCs will continue to be displayed.
Upon exit from the self-test the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The DATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Front Panel DATC Module Display—Retrieve Continuous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
Continuous DTCs are fault codes recorded by the DATC module which have occurred during normal operation. For the DATC module this means that all faults (intermittent or hard) that occur while the module is in an operational state shall be reported as a continuous DTC.

* To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and PANEL buttons simultaneously, followed by pressing the AUTO button within two seconds.
* The DATC module will report all continuous DTCs to the vacuum fluorescent (VF) display.
* The DATC module will not carry out a self-test; it will only display continuous faults codes which are stored in memory.
* All VF display segments will light if no faults are detected.
* Individual continuous DTCs will be reported with the °C symbol lit.
* DTCs shall be reported as a four-digit DTC (less the alpha character).
* Pressing the front defrost button will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and clear all continuous DTCs from DATC module memory.
* Pressing any other button (other than DEFROST) will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and maintain all continuous DTCs in DATC module memory.
* Upon exit from the retrieve continuous DTCs mode the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.
 
ok joe, as soon as i started the test all these numbers started going dont know if i am reading these right but they were listing kind of fast, is there anything else to be done after it stops listing the numbers?

1 24
22 3
3 22
4 21
5 20
6 19
1 18
8 17
9 16
10 15
17 8
18 7
20 5
21 4
24 1
14 11
25 0
18 7
19 6
20 5
22 3
24 1
13 12
22 3

looks to me like everything is or has gone wrong....
 
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seanjhon002 said:
ok joe, as soon as i started the test all these numbers started going dont know if i am reading these right but they were listing kind of fast, is there anything else to be done after it stops listing the numbers?

1 24
22 3
3 22
4 21
5 20
6 19
1 18
8 17
9 16
10 15
17 8
18 7
20 5
21 4
24 1
14 11
25 0
18 7
19 6
20 5
22 3
24 1
13 12
22 3

looks to me like everything is or has gone wrong....
Click to expand...

What happened at the end? Did all the diodes in the display light?
 
also running car and bleeding and it is overheating once i run the high rpm stage of the bleed and suggestions
 
@ls4me,after the number counting it just displayed all lit heat symbols symbols on it, that was it

also car still overheating when i rev the car at 2k rpms..any suggestions
 
seanjhon002 said:
also running car and bleeding and it is overheating once i run the high rpm stage of the bleed and suggestions
Click to expand...

Okay, the DATC shows no problems detected.

And now you make it clear that your problem is air in the cooling system. You'll have to find all the leaks and correctly bleed the system. After that, you will have working heat and your engine won't overheat. Until then, you'll have both problems.
 
joe, do you think also it could be failing water pump?

how long initially does the process go for..15 minutes 20 mins..the longest i heard was 30 minutes. When i bleed it i get a dripple and a small steady stream but then it stops then comes out. Should i just let it sit at idle for longer? As the temp gets to half still let it idle until a definate stream not a dripple stream?

Then i remember reading somewhere around step 11, joe you said something like you are supposed to open the degas bottle cap but it doesnt say that in instructions, is this correct?
 
I'd say that it rarely takes 30 minutes to bleed it. I'd still suspect the plastic cooling system parts at the front of the engine. They can crack such that air gets in but you won't notice the small amount of coolant that seeps out.
Yes, at step 11 you have to take the degas cap off to add more coolant, if needed. (Do be careful and throw a heavy rag over the cap when removing it.)

Water pumps rarely fail or leak on the LS, but of course it is possible and it does happen.
 
after opening the heater air bleed, i noticed it was spitting out and also as soon as i opened the air bleed the coolent in degas bottle started bubbling...bad sign?
 
seanjhon002 said:
after opening the heater air bleed, i noticed it was spitting out and also as soon as i opened the air bleed the coolent in degas bottle started bubbling...bad sign?
Click to expand...

Yes, if still has air/bubbles after a minute.
 
ok maybe i screwed up joe, are you supposed to fill coolant all the way to the top to where it is almost overflowing where the fill cap goes, and keep the coolant level at max line in degas bottle, OR, do i fill both the fill cap level all the way up(to where it is overflowing almost), and then fill the degas bottle coolant past the max line all the way up in the beginning of bleeding procedure?
 
one more thing joe or anyone, if the car was hot and running and got to normal operating temperature, what hose do i check to make sure the the auxillary pump in functioning? is it the two hoses going back to the fire wall on passengerside, or is there another hose to check.
 
seanjhon002 said:
ok maybe i screwed up joe, are you supposed to fill coolant all the way to the top to where it is almost overflowing where the fill cap goes, and keep the coolant level at max line in degas bottle, OR, do i fill both the fill cap level all the way up(to where it is overflowing almost), and then fill the degas bottle coolant past the max line all the way up in the beginning of bleeding procedure?
Click to expand...

At the beginning, fill both as much as you can (ignore the max fill line). It is very important that the heater bleed screw be open while you are filling them. If it isn't it will take you a lot longer to get all the air out.

Use a thermometer (non contact preferred) to check the temperature of all three heater hoses.
 
Thanks Joe, I think that is where I was making my mistake, I should have been filling them all the way up

ok, and check the two hoses on passenger side going into firewall?

How long typically do auxillary pumps last?
 
ok joe,

quick question, when doing the bleed, i got warmish hot air, so i dropped to 75 degrees F and let idle for two mins (still warm, not hot), then shut her off to allow to cool off.

do you think i need to repeat the bleed process to get the heat to hot once she cools down, or do you think she(my car lol) is good?
 
seanjhon002 said:
ok joe,

quick question, when doing the bleed, i got warmish hot air, so i dropped to 75 degrees F and let idle for two mins (still warm, not hot), then shut her off to allow to cool off.

do you think i need to repeat the bleed process to get the heat to hot once she cools down, or do you think she(my car lol) is good?
Click to expand...

Do the bleed process EXACTLY as instructed. Do NOT modify the process in any way!
 
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