Weird Shift?

dunndarryn

dunndarryn

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First, let me apologize for posting a topic that is talked about often. I searched first and didn't find anything close enough.

It's hard to explain, but sometimes my transmission shifts a little weird. There's no slip, but sometimes I'll feel like it should shift but it doesn't until I let off the gas for a second and then I'll see the RPMS go down. This feeling usually happens around 2000 RPMS. It's really hard to explain but I just want to see if anyone knows if this is normal or what? I'll be honest, sometimes I'm a bit paranoid that something may be wrong and nothing really is, because of all the previous problems. Thanks in advanced!
 
It seems like to me, that once you start letting off the gas to get it to shift, it adapts to that and gets to where you need to do it each time. A while back, I drove my wife's LS and it was doing that. I asked her and she was letting off the gas to get it to shift. I asked her to stop doing that, and a month or so later when I tried it, it was back to normal.
Of course, this may not be what's going on with you. Also, the LS transmission does not shift as well as it should, so it may it that you are expecting more of it than it can give.
 
joegr said:
It seems like to me, that once you start letting off the gas to get it to shift, it adapts to that and gets to where you need to do it each time. A while back, I drove my wife's LS and it was doing that. I asked her and she was letting off the gas to get it to shift. I asked her to stop doing that, and a month or so later when I tried it, it was back to normal.
Of course, this may not be what's going on with you. Also, the LS transmission does not shift as well as it should, so it may it that you are expecting more of it than it can give.
Click to expand...

I'v been letting off the gas to shift for months, so that might make sense. Thank you!
 
If you dont know already, just unhook your battery and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. Then when you connect the battery the trans will 're-learn' your driving habits.
 
hite337 said:
If you dont know already, just unhook your battery and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. Then when you connect the battery the trans will 're-learn' your driving habits.
Click to expand...

I always unhook my battery (I have something draining my electricity, haven't figured it out yet). So when I first start driving it doesn't do it but after I drive for a little bit, it starts. Makes sense that it could be my fault for letting off the gas. Thanks!
 
so next time you start your car after an unplug ebrake and floor it. Leave a cloud of smoke the size of a house.
 
hite337 said:
If you dont know already, just unhook your battery and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. Then when you connect the battery the trans will 're-learn' your driving habits.
Click to expand...

+1 million, just follow the break in procedure and a drive cycle (for starters).
 
dunndarryn said:
I always unhook my battery (I have something draining my electricity, haven't figured it out yet). So when I first start driving it doesn't do it but after I drive for a little bit, it starts. Makes sense that it could be my fault for letting off the gas. Thanks!
Click to expand...

if you always unhook your battery your car is always going to operate like s_hit because you continuously clear the KAM...
 
joegr said:
It seems like to me, that once you start letting off the gas to get it to shift, it adapts to that and gets to where you need to do it each time. A while back, I drove my wife's LS and it was doing that. I asked her and she was letting off the gas to get it to shift. I asked her to stop doing that, and a month or so later when I tried it, it was back to normal.
Of course, this may not be what's going on with you. Also, the LS transmission does not shift as well as it should, so it may it that you are expecting more of it than it can give.
Click to expand...

Driving to work today, I reminded myself not to let off the gas to shift, it that seemed to be my issue! Seems when I don't do that, the shift is fine. Thanks!
 
Just reset the transmission.

There is a thread on the procedure. I will leaving the searching to you
 
dunndarryn said:
I always unhook my battery (I have something draining my electricity, haven't figured it out yet). So when I first start driving it doesn't do it but after I drive for a little bit, it starts. Makes sense that it could be my fault for letting off the gas. Thanks!
Click to expand...

now that thats fixed...whats wrond with the draining? you have to disconnect your battery every night???
 
G-RELL said:
now that thats fixed...whats wrond with the draining? you have to disconnect your battery every night???
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what's causing the drain. My grandpa is the one who checked it all out for me. I have a brand new battery and my alternator is also in good shape, but my battery was going dead constantly after sitting for a couple hours. My grandpa said he went through most all the things it could be and I think he told me it's something in the main wiring or main fuse.

He couldn't figure it out, so he added a kill switch, so I just turn off the power every night. I now have a mechanic that works on my car, but I know that whatever it is, is probably going to be costly to diagnose and fix.
 
well you can always check the obvious, make sure everythings off at night... radio shuts off, trunk light is off (put rear seats down and close lid)) etc...
 
G-RELL said:
well you can always check the obvious, make sure everythings off at night... radio shuts off, trunk light is off (put rear seats down and close lid)) etc...
Click to expand...

Yep, checked all that. From what I hear, the LS is an electrical nightmare but of all the car problems I have heard of, this isn't one of them lol.

Sometimes (not always, just rarely) when I'm driving I hear like a deep sound coming from (what I think is) my exhaust. I have no clue how to explain it, besides when I'm inside driving I hear it. It's not always but for example, sometimes I'll be going 55 or 60 and I'll begin to hear it, but when I get down to like 25-30 it'll stop and then when I start accelerating again, it won't make the sound. It's the most bizarre thing, lol. Any idea what it could be?
 
dunndarryn said:
Yep, checked all that. From what I hear, the LS is an electrical nightmare but of all the car problems I have heard of, this isn't one of them lol.

Sometimes (not always, just rarely) when I'm driving I hear like a deep sound coming from (what I think is) my exhaust. I have no clue how to explain it, besides when I'm inside driving I hear it. It's not always but for example, sometimes I'll be going 55 or 60 and I'll begin to hear it, but when I get down to like 25-30 it'll stop and then when I start accelerating again, it won't make the sound. It's the most bizarre thing, lol. Any idea what it could be?
Click to expand...

Actually, this issue does come up from time to time. It's difficult to troubleshoot, but it's not rocket science.

You need an amp meter (analog or digital, single purpose of multi-meter) with at least a maximum range of 10 Amps, and able to read down to 10 mA or less.
Get some alligator clips or similar and wire it across the kill switch that you have. Don't just hold the probes on to the connections.

Leave the trunk open, the key off, and the kill switch on. Don't open any of the car doors. Wait for the trunk light to go off. It should do so in less than thirty minutes. If not, report back.

Open the kill switch (off or kill position), and read the current. Report the value. (If it is less than 100 mA, then your problem is not present now.)
Now, pull fuses in the trunk fuse box one by one. When(if) the current drops below 100 mA, report back which fuse caused it to drop. If the trunk light comes back on, wait for it to go back off before proceeding to the next fuse.

After this, you will have narrowed it to which branch of the system is the problem, and we can do more specific tests on that branch to find the drain.
 
joegr said:
Actually, this issue does come up from time to time. It's difficult to troubleshoot, but it's not rocket science.

You need an amp meter (analog or digital, single purpose of multi-meter) with at least a maximum range of 10 Amps, and able to read down to 10 mA or less.
Get some alligator clips or similar and wire it across the kill switch that you have. Don't just hold the probes on to the connections.

Leave the trunk open, the key off, and the kill switch on. Don't open any of the car doors. Wait for the trunk light to go off. It should do so in less than thirty minutes. If not, report back.

Open the kill switch (off or kill position), and read the current. Report the value. (If it is less than 100 mA, then your problem is not present now.)
Now, pull fuses in the trunk fuse box one by one. When(if) the current drops below 100 mA, report back which fuse caused it to drop. If the trunk light comes back on, wait for it to go back off before proceeding to the next fuse.

After this, you will have narrowed it to which branch of the system is the problem, and we can do more specific tests on that branch to find the drain.
Click to expand...

Thanks joe! I don't have the meter you're speaking of but I believe my grandpa went through all the fuses like you said. I'm not sure exactly though.
 
since OP has no clue where to start and is relying on grandpa, i would suggest he pulls the bulb out of the trunk and also pull the bulb out of the glovebox... if that dont work then call grandpa and do the procedure posted by joegr.

but as an fyi you are losing all of the specs for the tranny everytime you throw that kill switch and it has to relearn them everytime you drive. nothing will function in a consistent fashion until you stop using the kill switch. additionally, you may have the precursors to check engine lights and not even know it bc youre throwing the switch before the sensors/pcm have a chance to calibrate on short trips (less than 50 miles i would guess).
 
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