Recharging the A/C

lan_baba

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I started to hear hissing sound for 1 or 2 seconds every a few minutes from under the dash, and from reading the threads, it seems the r134 is a little bit low. Any idea how do I charge the A/C? Do I need to charge from the "low-pressure service gauge port"? What is the pressure level I need to charge it to? Do I need to have the A/C on when charging? I forgot what I did last time (more than 10 yrs ago) to my accord, so any one please give me a hand?:D

Did I mention that the dealer replaced the A/C and DCCV in Dec 2010? What a crap job or crap parts.
 
2006. I just found out that the low pressure port is located under the car. Is that correct?
 
If the 06 is just like the gen 1, turn your wheels to full lock left and you will be able to access it under the driver's side(wheel area). Joegr is the person to talk to in order to ensure you properly perform the procedure if you are going to do yourself.
 
If the 06 is just like the gen 1, turn your wheels to full lock left and you will be able to access it under the driver's side(wheel area). Joegr is the person to talk to in order to ensure you properly perform the procedure if you are going to do yourself.

No need to turn the wheels, but you do need to remove the guard on the driver's side. It easiest if you drive up on some ramps.
 
ok, I give up. I took the car to the dealer and they said there is a little bit ac dye at the high pressure port and the bottom of the compressor. But they also said that the ac is performing well and so they clean the port and the compressor, and asked me to check with them next service time (3k). I told them they did a crappy job since they put the compressor and the dccv etc in at the end of 2010, I know it is over 1 year, but hey, it does not sound right for a new ac gone bad again just after 20 months. I will keep an eye on the ac and keep you guys posted.
What do you guys think?
 
I bought new DCCV from Ford and replaced it myself. The new part actually went bad inside the 1 year parts warranty. The warranty replacement lasted for years until I traded the car. New parts can go/are bad. Hiss from dash does not sound like a DCCV issue though. I was just saying.....
 
No need to turn the wheels, but you do need to remove the guard on the driver's side. It easiest if you drive up on some ramps.

Is this for gen 2 only? If not, I have seen my car connected, without ramps, by turning the wheels full left without removing the guard(wheel well liner). On flat ground as well.
 
Is this for gen 2 only? If not, I have seen my car connected, without ramps, by turning the wheels full left without removing the guard(wheel well liner). On flat ground as well.

Yeah, it may be a little different for gen I. Gen II's easy. Just remove a couple of screws and you're there.
 
Aaaaah. Cool. Another tidbit to add to my slowly growing understanding of the subtle differences between the two generations.
 
Yeah, need to hook up the high and low side. Only charge from the low-pressure port if you value things like your personal well being. You can grenade the can if you expose it to the high-side pressure. If that worries you then just charge the system with the car turned off. Without hooking up to mine I would guess the system pressure at idle in 90-degree heat is around 100-psi. Ohh, if you should probably use one of the little top-off cans that has some oil in it. Most leaks usually blow the oil out as well.

If you see the high-pressure side needle bouncing up and down as opposed to just kind of quivering then it is usually a sign of a weak compressor. Other then that the link Joegr sent has the common high/low pressure diagnostics in it at the bottom.
 
If the issue only occurs once every two years, is it a better financial option to simply recharge it now yourself with a $20 kit from Advance or Walmart...and revisit again in 2014?
 
If the issue only occurs once every two years, is it a better financial option to simply recharge it now yourself with a $20 kit from Advance or Walmart...and revisit again in 2014?

It's not going to get better. All slow leaks turn into fast leaks eventually. Since it is so slow he has time to plan things out but shouldn't just recharge every 2 years and pretends it's fine. What will eventually happen is it won't stay charged at all or the leak will cause some other sort of catastrophic failure. A failed hose or o-ring is already a given cost to repair and not that expensive. Why take the chance of adding a compressor, condenser, or something else to that list.

I would probably charge it for now, figure out what is wrong, and start planning to fix it when funds and/or time presents itself.

Most AC issues with leaking Freon end up being o'rings or lines. A quick look on rock auto gets me this for all motorcraft branded parts:

Compressor hose assy: $153
Liquid Line: $95
Drier/Accumulator: $57

My planned parts cost would be $305. You can also use a four seasons Drier/Accumulator for around $20 if you want. Plus if it's only one of the lines then that is more money saved. If you find it's just o-rings then you are out maybe $10 in parts for the offending o'rings plus an evac and charge. That's the best-case scenario. If you do find out it is just o'rings then buy the kit and replace them all. While you've got it apart might as well spend a few bucks to make sure none of the other ones are about to go. In theory you should replace the accumulator/drier any time you open the system but eh, that is a judgement call most of the time. I've heard of some people putting them in the oven at 250 to boil the moisture back out of them and then reinstall them back in the car. I always replaced them when I did major work since they act as a filter for the system.

Here is what I've seen "just refilling a slow leak" on an AC system also cost in addition to the above:

Compressor w/ Clutch: $390
Condenser: $190
Expansion Valve: $53

Again all motorcraft parts so cheaper alternatives are offered, but you get my point. A Freon leak is also pumping out oil that the compressor uses to lubricate itself. The compressor will eventually end up grinding itself to death while pumping everything between it and the drier/accumulator full of grindings. It also looks like these cars have a parallel flow condenser so you can't really flush them out well. Options are replacement for the most part. The expansion valve isn't really serviceable and you should replace it since it might have garbage in it preventing it from working right too.
 

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