Broke something while replacing the EGR valve.

[Irndk10]

Sorry if this is a double post, but I don't think my first one went through...

Ok, I recently had my check engine light on my 2004 Lincoln LS V8. I went and got a code for it. After that I did some research and found out that i needed a new EGR valve. It seemed like a fairly simple repair and I figured I could do it on my own and save some money.

However while removing the EGR valve I accident broke a hose and some thing else (both were brittle). I'm not too worried about the hose, because I figure it's a pretty cheap part. However, I broke another line that went into some black box. I have no idea what this part is. I'm afraid that I may have caused myself more damage than if I just would have taken it to a professional to do.

Here are pictures http://imgur.com/a/t1vzN .

So, what did I break, and what should I do about it?

 

[1LoudLS]

what should I do about it?

i would take the broke part off, and take it and a couple of your pictures to the dealer and buy a new one (if you can)

 

[embe]

superglue

 

[n8bachelor]

superglue

+1

I did something similar when removing the EGR valve on my plug/coil replacement. Superglued it back together and all is well.

Here: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=868474&postcount=2

 

[Telco]

Bad news. That looks like a fuel pressure regulator. Since it's fuel system related I wouldn't superglue it, I'd replace it. If it craps out your engine could go lean and pop a piston. I wouldn't use the parts store brand on this either, or anything made by Airtex. The only online place I could find without a deep search was rockauto.com and they only offer Airtex for 110 bucks.

 

[joegr]

Looks like the fuel pressure sensor to me. The PCM uses the fuel pressure sensor to enable it to regulate fuel pressure by commanding the REM to supply more or less power to the fuel pump.
It's an important part. You'll have to replace it.

 

[Telco]

Looks like the fuel pressure sensor to me. The PCM uses the fuel pressure sensor to enable it to regulate fuel pressure by commanding the REM to supply more or less power to the fuel pump.
It's an important part. You'll have to replace it.

Interesting. I pulled the pics up on Rock Auto, and it lists both a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel pressure sensor, and they both look like the same part on the pics.

Either way, both look like they plumb into the fueling system. When you go to replace, the OP will need to remember to relieve pressure on the fueling system before removing. It would suck to get a face full of gasoline under pressure. Wouldn't be much, but wouldn't take much in an eye to sting.

 

[1LoudLS]

or he can just cover the area with a rag as he takes it off.

 

[joegr]

Interesting. I pulled the pics up on Rock Auto, and it lists both a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel pressure sensor, and they both look like the same part on the pics.

Either way, both look like they plumb into the fueling system. When you go to replace, the OP will need to remember to relieve pressure on the fueling system before removing. It would suck to get a face full of gasoline under pressure. Wouldn't be much, but wouldn't take much in an eye to sting.

Parts frequently aren't described exactly correctly by the parts folks. For example, the LS is a spring over shock design. These are not struts, but just about all of the parts places list them as struts. The LS uses COPs (Coil-On-Plug) for ignition, but some places incorrectly call them coil packs...

You point about the pressurized fuel rail is a good one. Another way to deal with it is to throw an old rag over the connection while disconnecting it. That keeps the small amount of gasoline from spraying on you or in your eyes.
The factory procedure is to pull the fuel pump fuse and start the engine and let it run till it stalls.

 

[joegr]

or he can just cover the area with a rag as he takes it off.

Ha, you beat me this time.

 

[Telco]

Aw don't be raggin' on me! Yeah, the rag idea works too but it gets fuel on top of the engine and takes longer to clear the smell out. And, getting it on your skin will cause skin cancer if you live in California. The rest of us are safe. On the part thing, I understand what you're saying but usually they call it one name or another at one specific company, not both. Weird.

 

[1LoudLS]

Ha, you beat me this time.

THERE IS A FIRST TIME FOR EVERYTHING!!
:runaway::runaway::runaway::runaway::wrench:wrench:wrench:drunk::dancefool:monkey::wave:invasion::bow::facesjump:headbang:

 

[Irndk10]

The mechanic is giving me a quote of $550 for the fuel sensor and the line. I was expecting somewhere around 250-300. I asked for their breakdown and it went like this:

180- for the sensor

48- for the line or hose

270- labor at 90/hr

I asked them if they could give me a better price on the sensor because I found it on rockauto for $76. He replied "I refuse to use that cheap crap". I am not sure about the labor price, but it doesn't seem like it would take 3 hrs to replace. So now including the price for the EGR valve that I installed I would be out a total of about $650. I'm definitely not happy about this.

They kinda have me by the balls, are they taking advantage of me?

 

[joegr]

...
They kinda have me by the balls, are they taking advantage of me?

Yes.

 

[REDBED]

Buy the parts and find a mech that will install them. Lots of shops will be more than glad to do this. Good Luck.

 

[Telco]

550 to replace that? Wow... I should ditch the telecom business and become a mechanic. Got any gearhead buddies? That's only a 6-pack job. If you lived near me I'd do it if you kept me in Crown the whole time I was working, and I don't think I'd get more than one down before the job was done.

In this case I do agree with the mechanic's appraisal of the Rock Auto parts. They only offered the sensor from Airtek and I'd not install that crap either.