Security Car Alarms

LDM

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2011
Messages
776
Reaction score
4
Location
Phoenix
Since I no longer have a garage to park my car in, I am considering a security car alarm. There have been many car thefts and break-ins in the area I moved into.. such as 3 adjacent neighbors (great). :(

After reading many threads and doing some internet searches I have a few questions.

Two local installers do security systems and audio installs. I talked to them both with questions about my Kenwood stereo install, and didn't feel they were qualified to do the LS - so I did it myself. They didn't know about the RAP feature and neither place had installed a stereo in the LS (AudioExpress and 2 Best Buys). So I don't want them to install a security system.

Many LVC threads mentioned not installing a security system yourself, especially if it's a first time installing a security system (let alone on a LS).

I called the Lincoln Dealership I use and they suggested their Ford Custom Shop to do the install, as they do many LS's. I talked to them and they suggested a Viper 350 Plus 1-Way for $199 or 2-Way for $299 installed (or a Viper Remote Start system for $599).

I want security and am not concerned about or wanting a remote start (although living in Arizona with the car always sitting outside now that remote start might be nice, but not needed).

I see a Viper Responder 350 2-way on Amazon for $105 shipped. It would cost nearly $200 more to buy it and have it installed from the Ford Custom Shop.

For $300, would you get a better Viper system and install it yourself... or let the local Ford Custom Shop install the Viper 350 Plus 1-way for $199 or 2-way for $299? (Or install the Viper 350 Plus 1-way or 2-way yourself).

Also, do they need to get into the dash/stereo area to install this? (I don't want them in there as I just completed my stereo install and don't want them messing around in that area).

Right now I am considering letting them install the Viper 350 Plus 1-way for $199.
 
i would sure not install your first alarm system into an LS.



the things your going to need to do to put a alarm in the LS,

drill a hole in the firewall to get the siren up under there,

tap and solder a few wires into the ignition harness (a real PITA to get to),

use a relay to isolate the dome light wire as the door trigger (what sets off the alarm) because the normally closed factory door triggers and a issue with a slight resistance to ground when the computer falls to sleep,

running a wire into the trunks light for the trunk trigger,

running lock, and unlock wire in the drivers door to tap into wires at the DDM,

adding an extra relay to get the parking lights to flash for arm and disarm,

mounting the shock sensor somewhere where it is effective for all areas of the car.


if your not comfortable doing any of these or are not sure what i'm even talking about, do your self a favor and pay to have it done.


not to mention, Viper systems have a lifetime warranty only if they are purchased AND installed by an authorized dealer.
i have seen installers that through the knew what they where doing, cause thousands of dollars in damage by making a small mistake, and i have seen systems that where installed properly malfunction and cause thousands of dollars in damage to cars. the added price is more that worth it for those securities alone.

also, be careful buying any directed product (the company that owns viper) online, i have seen it a few times now that somebody purchaced system only to fine out that they were all refurbished units and were not advertised as such *cough*cough sonicelectronix.com*cough (of the four viper systems brought to me from there this year, two had crushed screens, one would lock up and stop working after about a week of being reset and had to be swapped out, and the fourth was exchanged for a new one before it was ever installed).
 
Sorry, kinda ignorant on security system features... I just talked to them again and they said the Tilt feature is another $45, and the Glass Break feature is another $100.

What system and features would you get for security only (no remote start)?

Basically they are breaking the glass windows or sunroof in the area, and I want to deter them... by a flashing light and have an alarm go off when that happens.

If the motion sensors are crap/inconsistant, and if the glass break isn't good... then what's the point. What system really works to prevent or scare off the kids if they do break-in (can't stop a pro easily)... other than a flashing light on the dash that the LS already has? (Sorry kinda long post).

Edit: Neighbors already have flood lights on at night, and they still took the stereo and stole the tailgate from the truck (and actually drove off with another neighbor's pickup truck). Not to mention they broke in the house next door during the day when the neighbors were gone by jumping the fence and entering through a window. Also stole a motorcycle. It's Mom's house, can't move/relocate her somewhere else. We do have a home security system. Just need something for my LS sitting outside. I just moved here, and since it's new to the area it may be drawing some attention. If I knew who they were I may walk around and display "my little friend". (Neighbor just had viper systems installed in 2 vehicles, told me to get one). He asked me yesterday if it was a BMW! and if it had an aftermarket alarm.
 
Thanks 1LoudLS... I didn't want to install this based myself on your recommendations in previous posts... so thinking I would let the local Ford Custom Shop (at a Ford/Lincoln dealership) do it.

Just need to determine which system and what features/options to buy, and let them do it. (Heat is coming on in Arizona, don't want to do this install outside anyway). So doing it myself is out.

Which one to get and what options? (Leaning towards Viper 350 Plus 1-way with glass breakage option for $299 installed). Anything else... like a better blinking dash light option to add to that system?

Edit: Add-ons: Front/Rear LED's, Dual shock sensors, Glass break, Battery backup.
(Roof mounted machine gun turret on the house, motion sensors, video recording).
 
I want to get a dash cam like Andrizzle's. Expensive though. I'm in save mode.

Get a motion sensor in your driveway that will set off your cellphone in the house, and a shotgun.
 
Ravelco says that its system has never been defeated, was a great reliable system for me:

http://browse.autotraderclassics.com/car-article/Ravelco%27s+Revenge-79055.xhtml

BUT this system only disables the motor, which the PATS system already does, and will only make it harder for somebody to steal the car (unless they have a tow truck)

it doesn't add any deterrent to keep people from actually breaking into your car and taking everything out of it. most thieves wouldn't even realize that it is in there until after they broke the window and let themselves in (hell, your radio could be long gone and the crackhead that took it may never even realize that it was there)
 
Which one to get and what options? (Leaning towards Viper 350 Plus 1-way with glass breakage option for $299 installed). Anything else... like a better blinking dash light option to add to that system?

Edit: Add-ons: Front/Rear LED's, Dual shock sensors, Glass break, Battery backup.

which one really doesn't make a huge difference, the main alarm is that same for all of there systems, the only real difference is the remotes (range and feedback) all of the viper systems will monitor the doors being opened, (should monitor the trunk and hood, but a lot of places call that optional) never been a big fan of glass break sensors, all they are is a microphone tuned to pick up the sound of something tapping on glass, where as a properly set up shock sensor would set off the alarm from a contact hard enough to break glass. and they already come with a dual stage sensor, also i dont think there is really any reason for extra LED's, most of the time when somebody tries to break into a car, they need to be somewhere where they can see the main LED, not to mention the PATS light. tilt sensors are nice if you have wheels. if your going to get a battery back up, dont get the battery pack that gets wired into the main systems power, because all you have to do is cut the wires to the siren to stop it, you want to get the battery backup that is built into the siren itself, even if the wires are cut to the siren and the brain can not tell it to go off, it will still alarm on it own.

(Roof mounted machine gun turret on the house, motion sensors, video recording).
i prefer an AR next to the bed and closest window to the car with the bolt locked back, even if the sound of an alarm doesn't scare away thieves, the sound of releasing the bolt on an empty mag will strike fear into any person with half a working brain. it doesn't matter how bad you need crack, you hear that and you just run!
 
never been a big fan of glass break sensors, all they are is a microphone tuned to pick up the sound of something tapping on glass, where as a properly set up shock sensor would set off the alarm from a contact hard enough to break glass.

Thought that if they were testing for an alarm and tapped on the glass with some keys or metal, that it would set off the warning sound or alarm "before" they might actually break the glass.

Good to know about a siren w/built in power.

If I get the $199 350+ 1-way plus $100 for the glass break plus upgraded siren w/battery power and add $ for tilt... I wonder if their $599 system includes all of that in a package. Guess I will need to call and ask (need the model# and what it includes for that price), as the price is getting up there adding things to a basic $199 system. If you still need to add these options to the $599 system, then that's not worth it.
 
@FrankLS... that's the one I was thinking of. Looks kind of obnoxious/visually loud... but if it deters someone and makes them go to the next car - then that's what I am looking for. Basically a move along, go away, don't mess with this car deterrent. It's one thing to set off an alarm after break-in... but I also want to prevent any damage to begin with.
 
Thought that if they were testing for an alarm and tapped on the glass with some keys or metal, that it would set off the warning sound or alarm "before" they might actually break the glass.

if they are using a part like the Directed 506T, it is adjustable so it can be set to alarm with lighter taps, but it will set off the full alarm and not just a warn away.
 
Went down and talked to the Ford Custom Shop in person today at the dealership.
They will sell me the Viper Responder 350 Plus 2-way for $250 installed.

Talked to them about options.

I have decided on the following (not scheduled for install yet):

Viper Responder 350 Plus 2-way $250 installed
Glass break (Directed 506T) $40
Additional LED $25

Had option of using the siren or the car horn. The car horn is louder (even when they modify the siren to be louder). Some websites state the directed siren sometimes fail due to poor internals/soldering etc (dealership said yes that has happened), and in the heat of Arizona they have failed (dealership agrees). Also everyone ignores car security sirens, so having the horn instead may draw some additional attention. Less to install, less holes, less to fail, would sound different than the other car alarms.

I asked them to put the LED that comes with the security system up behind the rear view mirror, and add another one and put it on the rear brake light on the rear shelf (top/center of the brake light). The PATS factory alarm light on the dash is mostly covered up and not visible due to the Dashmat dash cover... so this would provide more visibility indicating an alarm is active - on both ends of the vehicle.

Putting on lug nut locks for the stock wheels.

Hopefully this will be enough to deter kids, or scare them away if the alarm goes off.

Edit: If I had a $50,000+ vehicle I'd be more concerned and maybe add Tilt sensor for towing theft, backup power, maybe proximity detection. It's a $5K car, should just be kids in the area (pro's would get your car no matter what, and should be going after a more valuable vehicle).

They can reprogram the Viper 350+ 2-way system to be a silent alarm and just notify you via the remote (as sometimes kids/thieves keep setting off your alarm over nights hoping you will disable the alarm, and then they break-in to it). If I wanted that feature later I could not have it done with the 1-way without buying a new antenna or system modification and buying a new remote... so for $50 more upfront now it would allow that option should I want it later. I guess a warning beep still goes off at the vehicle, but if the actual alarm goes off you can have it be silent - if you set it that way. So if I get a bunch of false alarms or kids messing with it disturbing the neighbors at night I could have it set/programmed as silent and get the remote notification at the key fob. So I guess for $50 more it may be worth having the 2-way. Dealership says thieves/kids have been throwing tennis balls at cars when they drive buy to see which cars have the alarms active.
 
Increase security on the LS

The factory system works very well. When the alarm is activated all switches in the interior are disabled. The trunk release, door lock switches, window switches...everything is disabled.

This works very well except for one Achilles heel. A screwdriver inserted under the door lock cylinder can rotate the lock and disable the alarm.

The Cure: Step one disconnect the white/black wire at the door module. Just cut.

This will cause the factory alarm to go off if the screwdriver is used disabling everything.

The next thing that can be done is shave the door lock cylinder by installing a rear door handle in the front door. Don't forget to remove the lock rod to the latch. Doing both is all you need not an afte-rmarket alarm that goes off and pisses of the neighbors all the time.

I do these mods to LS's all the time. Everyone is happy with the way it works.

Mr. H
 
Doing both is all you need not an afte-rmarket alarm that goes off and pisses of the neighbors all the time.
Except there is no motion/shock sensors or glass break detection on the stock alarm. Thieves just break a window or sunroof and get in and take what they want without the alarm going off.

Edit: If they bump/rock the car or tap on the windows and no alarm goes off, then they break the glass. If you add those features with an aftermarket alarm, you may prevent damage completely and protect your stereo and other contents etc... and prevent down time from car repairs, insurance claims etc. Also if you add the aftermarket alarm, and they use a screwdriver to open the door, the aftermarket alarm will still go off (even when the stock one doesn't).
 
If you're going to do all that, make sure that the trunk key lock still works so that you can get into the car if there's an electrical problem.
 
Except there is no motion/shock sensors or glass break detection on the stock alarm. Thieves just break a window or sunroof and get in and take what they want without the alarm going off.

In theory, you could connect a glass breakage sensor to the factory alarm. Just wire it to a door open switch so that glass breaking looks like a door opening to the factory alarm. That said, I still think that you would be better off to go aftermarket.
 
The Cure: Step one disconnect the white/black wire at the door module. Just cut.

would this be the unlock detection wire from key cylinder?

if so, cutting this wire would also make the key not disarm the alarm any more (not a big factor if the key cylinder has been shaved) so every time you use the key to unlock the doors, it would set the alarm off.

also you would lose the ability to roll down your windows by using the key in the door.

at least with a aftermarket system, you gain functionality instead of losing it.
 
No one cares about your car except you. Without two-way, an alarm is useless. Also get two pain generators. One for the interior, one for the trunk.
 

Members online

Back
Top