Hub swap/front brake mod

or, instead of paying someone to pull apart my rusted rear hub-axle(s)....find and buy used rear axles off a southern parts Mark (I'm in Georgia) or the auction site and combine them with the two knuckles I already plan to use...with the torn boot (and rusted to the hub, this one is essentially junk now
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Are both sides frozen in? I always keep spare axles in my stock pile just in case. Yes you can buy used axles I bet for 35 dollars each and be done.
 
I would put a good bit of torque on the puller shaft and then smack the outer edge of the hub hard with a hammer a few times.
 
and this folks is why as a snow/rust belt resident every thru bolt and splined shaft gets a liberal coating of antiseize during assembly....


At this point I'd cut the head completely, punch it out the other side, and find a big press, a torch and strong arm it.
 
this car spent it's first 100k and 8 years in Mich.; I found a guy locally parting a 95 Mark (southern car) W/ 179K who will pull and sell either half shaft for $35, as well as the LCA to knuckle pan head torx bolts

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there are many times my car wins, this is one of those times....
what doesn't kill me makes my left should hurt like hell
 
DieselDan said:
I would put a good bit of torque on the puller shaft and then smack the outer edge of the hub hard with a hammer a few times.
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SATURN5 said:
At this point I'd cut the head completely, punch it out the other side, and find a big press, a torch and strong arm it.
Click to expand...

since I'm r/r the half shaft AND the knuckle, all I need to do now (for this driver's side) is remove the ABS sensor and pry the shaft out from he diff, yes?
I don't need to mess with pressing the outer spindle through the hub at this point. I'll set my sights on doing it RIGHT for the pass side
 
dnsherrill said:
since I'm r/r the half shaft AND the knuckle, all I need to do now (for this driver's side) is remove the ABS sensor and pry the shaft out from he diff, yes?
I don't need to mess with pressing the outer spindle through the hub at this point. I'll set my sights on doing it RIGHT for the pass side
Click to expand...

You don't touch the ABS sensor that is mounted to the pumkin and can stay. When your ready to pull spindle/axle just take pry bar and lever between pumkin and very end of CV shaft, one pry and they pop out like butter.
 
drvr side
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pass side, easy peasy
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do I need to temp plug the diff to avoid fluid loss
considering how rusted they are at the inboard end should I just replace both half axles with ones that have 179k and are from the south (less rust)?
 
piggy-backing off Diesel Dan's "What Mod's" thread: my plan is to upgrade front brakes to 13" rotors with Cobra calipers while keeping stock rear brakes. this combo will result in less braking ability than the stock setup?
 
well, I'm not gonna make this brake job any bigger just yet, I'll drive it awhile and see if it's a problem, address it as needed; are relocation brackets currently available from anyone? with cobra calipers and relocating brackets, are stock cobra/mustang rotors used.
i.e no need to re-drill Mark VIII rear rotors for 4.5'' hubs
 
dnsherrill said:
well, I'm not gonna make this brake job any bigger just yet, I'll drive it awhile and see if it's a problem, address it as needed; are relocation brackets currently available from anyone? with cobra calipers and relocating brackets, are stock cobra/mustang rotors used.
i.e no need to re-drill Mark VIII rear rotors for 4.5'' hubs
Click to expand...

When you do the back, use your stock calipers not Cobra ones. Mk8's are better.
 
Your best bet is to just run the redrilled stock rotors. If you go to a cobra rotor you will also need to run hub centering rings and brackets to raise the caliper. I don't even know if a cobra rear caliper will work. I don't think anyone has ever done it because no one ever took the time to figure out the effects that changing the fronts had on bias. I have done a lot of math designing the rear setup for my car and that is the only reason I noticed the effects.

-Alan
 
Right on the Mark said:
?
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I presumed a discussion/debate over why Cobra rears are the right choice when a Mark has Cobra fronts
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lobird91 said:
I don't even know if a cobra rear caliper will work. I don't think anyone has ever done it because no one ever took the time to figure out the effects that changing the fronts had on bias.

-Alan
Click to expand...
you list your mods as 11.65'' inch Cobra rear brakes? that's Mark calipers with Cobra rotors
 
dnsherrill said:
I presumed a discussion/debate over why Cobra rears are the right choice when a Mark has Cobra fronts
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you list your mods as 11.65'' inch Cobra rear brakes? that's Mark calipers with Cobra rotors
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You will not get that debate everyone says no need to change to cobra rear caliper.

I run Brembo Cobra rotors all around. Mach 1 twin piston front calipers and stock rear calipers with brackets I made.
 
Correct, Cobra rotors with Mark calipers on relocation brackets. That's how "everyone" does it, I was just saying that this actually isn't ideal and the fact that the piston is larger in the Mark caliper is actually worse for maintaining factory bias.

-Alan

Edit for more info, had to grab my spreadsheet:

With stock Mark calipers the effective piston area up front is 10.597sq in and rear is 4.919sq in so the rear is 46% the of the front this is the bias the stock Mark proportioning system is designed for.

When you swap to a Cobra caliper there are two different versions 38mm and 40mm pistons. The total effective area with the 38mm versions is 7.027sq in and the 40mm is 7.789sq in.

That makes the rear piston area a larger percentage of the front you have 70% and 63% respectively. So now your front calipers are taking much less brake pedal to fully actuate than the rears. If this was a fox Mustang I would throw a Wilwood proportioning valve on the rear line and dial them in till I was happy, but with 4 channel ABS in the Mark that isn't really an option.
 
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trying to push that frozen spindle through the hub just about pulled my shoulder out of socket so I gave up on that;
got back into it and trimmed the LCA bolt
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now ready to r/r the half axles
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no reservations about re-using that LCA bolt?
used axles w/ 180k for 70 and drive 40 miles, or new for 160 from O'R's...hmm
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I love my lil skeeter grinder, just realized I've had it since about 1993...still kickin arse
 
dnsherrill said:
no reservations about re-using that LCA bolt?
used axles w/ 180k for 70 and drive 40 miles, or new for 160 from O'R's...hmm
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I love my lil skeeter grinder, just realized I've had it since about 1993...still kickin arse
Click to expand...
I use the trimmed bolt in my car no problem going on 6 years.
Did you get pair of axles for 70?
 
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