"Winterizing" the LS

firemanls

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Havent been on here in awhile and wanted to come back and ask about some things i need to do to "winterize" my ls. Im in a little bit of a bind with court costs and then christmas is coming so i cant really dedicate my money to fixing the ls. Problems are the alternator needs replaced, and coils and plugs. as well as the foam seals to stop the water from getting to the coils.

So my car will probably be sitting for the next 2 months. Anything i should do? i live in tennessee so no worry about it getting under 10 degrees. I started it the other day with the battery charger on it and let it warm up and moved it up the down the driveway a bit to get the fluids moving through it again. anything else that you would recommend would be greatly apperciated. Thanks!
 
Disconnect the battery and/or put a battery tender on it.
 
Thanks for the replys. Is that all i have to to is disconnect the battery? no adding anything to the fuel tank?
 
Probably not just for 2 months, but some Sta-Bil would not go amiss in case it winds up being longer due to life getting in the way. I'd try to burn off as much as possible first though, perhaps drain the tank with a siphon, then pour some Sta-Bil into the tank and run the car for about 5 minutes to get it all the way through the fuel system. When you're ready to run it again, put a fresh load of fuel in at that time to minimize the amount of time you burn old fuel.
 
Probably not just for 2 months, but some Sta-Bil would not go amiss in case it winds up being longer due to life getting in the way. I'd try to burn off as much as possible first though, perhaps drain the tank with a siphon, then pour some Sta-Bil into the tank and run the car for about 5 minutes to get it all the way through the fuel system. When you're ready to run it again, put a fresh load of fuel in at that time to minimize the amount of time you burn old fuel.

Actually.... I would keep a full tank to keep moisture out. With Sta-bil of course......
 
I just put mine away for storage for the winter season and added a bottle of fuel stabilizer to a full fresh tank of Shell 91.
It's going to sit and only move from garage to driveway and back to garage. Full tank w/ stabilizer when it sits for a while is a must!
 
It has maybe about a gallon of 93 shell gas in it at the moment. So your saying i should fill it up and put sta-bil in it? i mean i know my gas cap is tight.
 
Today's modern fuels are not designed for long term storage.

Fuel stabilizer prevents fuel from degrading and oxidizing during prolonged periods of storage.
Prevents fuels from going bad when they must be stored for more than a month and protects fuel from moisture.
 
Read the small print on the back of the bottle of whatever you pick up.

Q: How much STA-BIL® Fuel Stabilizer should I add to fuel?
A: One ounce (30mL) of STA-BIL® Fuel Stabilizer for every 2 ½ gallons (9.5 L) of gasoline, gasoline/oil mixtures, or ethanol blends is the recommended dosage level.


Mine was the whole bottle for up to 70 liters.


It's not exact science. A little more, a little less, it will be fine.
 
So does the LS not have a plastic tank then? A full tank to avoid water is only a necessity when the fuel tank is metal. When it's plastic the tank isn't going to rust, which is the purpose of a full tank. The fuel pump's metal parts, to be E10-compliant, will (or at least should) be made of either stainless or anodized aluminum.
 
the tank is not metal.

he wasn't recommending to keep the tank full in fear that the tank would rust, he concerned about a build up of moisture from all of the air in an empty gas tank. while that moisture wont rust the tank out, extra moisture isn't good for the fuel, and less than great fuel is not good for the car
 
I dunno, I still think that a fresh load of fuel next spring would be better than having to run a tank of old fuel through the system. The main reason for topping the tank was back when the tanks were metal, the moisture was enough to rust the inside of the tank. This isn't a problem with plastic tanks. By draining the tank, the only old fuel that would go through would be what was actually in the lines, which would be gone after a minute.
 
We're talking two months, so it probably really won't matter either way.

I'd fill the tank. Otherwise, some water will condense from the empty air space above the gasoline. There's 10% alcohol in most gasoline these days. The water will combine with the alcohol to form an acid. This acid will attack the seals in the fuel system. I don't see where metal or plastic tank makes any difference.

The other thing is that one or two gallons won't cover the whole fuel pump. I'd want the fuel pump fully covered by gasoline. Otherwise, it's up in the air rusting for two months.
 

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