Transmission bad news......

grizzlyls

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
543
Reaction score
55
Location
California
Well, tranny shop said he didn't even want to touch my transmission. Dont have the details, will try to understand when I go pick it up. Anyhow, when I pressed the dealer about what the 1300 hundred bucks meant that they qouted, she said it was labor, and doesnt know the parts yet, so I guess that means internal rebuild. :slam

2001 V8 - please give me some advice, looking at rebuilds now. Sadly, I am not mechanically inclined. So best price options please.

Did find this tell me what you think please. 1350 for average torque convertor, 1450 for a better one as they explained it to me.

http://www.tomsrivertransmissions.com/id6.html?gclid=CJLOp-uJ18sCFYZefgodY4AERw
 
That's a shop to run away from. You probably oughta find a reputable shop and just swap a good used tranny into it. don-ohio (:^)
 
That's a shop to run away from. You probably oughta find a reputable shop and just swap a good used tranny into it. don-ohio (:^)

Don you mean run from the ad I showed, the dealer, or the aamco (over 100 reviews 4,5 stars average) that said he wouldnt touch it?

The ad looks good to me, just not fancy current internet tech, but of course I would call the Jersey business bureau before firing the gun. In Los Angeles here, reputable is iffy, and usually super high price due to demand.

Worried about used, due to no warranty and no history, could be getting another bad one.
 
No,no.....I didn't check that link. They may be alright,but if you get a tranny(with the matching torque converter) out of a running LS that matches,you should be okay.
I was talking about the guy that didn't want to work on it and AAMCO may not be reall a good choice I've heard.don-ohio (:^)

Don you mean run from the ad I showed, the dealer, or the aamco (over 100 reviews 4,5 stars average) that said he wouldnt touch it?

The ad looks good to me, just not fancy current internet tech, but of course I would call the Jersey business bureau before firing the gun. In Los Angeles here, reputable is iffy, and usually super high price due to demand.

Worried about used, due to no warranty and no history, could be getting another bad one.
 
Ok thanks... as it works out I started looking at that ad a little more, thinking you meant the ad maybe. Not hopeful at this point, a google search brings up some nasty things about it, and looking a little deeper, he may not take credit card which I for certain wouldn't do since that gives a little protection if you can show fraud.

I hear you about aamco, been around since I was a kid, and know its goods and bads, this one in Glendale CA has those reviews mentioned over 3 major web sources and maintains a 4.5 stars on all, so I think they are good. We will see what he suggests when I pick it up tonight.

If anyone can recommend a good source, though appreciate it.
 
Well, tranny shop said he didn't even want to touch my transmission. Dont have the details, will try to understand when I go pick it up. Anyhow, when I pressed the dealer about what the 1300 hundred bucks meant that they qouted, she said it was labor, and doesnt know the parts yet, so I guess that means internal rebuild. :slam

2001 V8 - please give me some advice, looking at rebuilds now. Sadly, I am not mechanically inclined. So best price options please.

Did find this tell me what you think please. 1350 for average torque convertor, 1450 for a better one as they explained it to me.

http://www.tomsrivertransmissions.com/id6.html?gclid=CJLOp-uJ18sCFYZefgodY4AERw

I'm confused....

AAmco (run FAR, FAR and fast from them!!!!!) won't work on the trans? Good for you!

Lincoln/Ford dealer quoted $1300 for a trans rebuild?
 
The transmission is a Ford 5R55N. Call some independent transmission shops and ask them if they can do a rebuild on one. Make sure you tell them you specifically want it rebuilt since it's not a standard 4.6 V8 transmission which most of them came attached to. That's about the only reason why I can think the one shop said they wouldn't touch it. Likely because they couldn't just call Jasper or whoever and get one shipped to them off the shelf. They wanted to pull the old one and plop in the new one in the same day, not wait a week or two to rebuild one.

If you don't know of any trustworthy shops go to the local performance parts or ford tuning guys and ask them for recommendations.
 
Lincoln/Ford dealer quoted $1300 for a trans rebuild?

Well that equates to 10 hours labor, and they were not specific (I asked for more detail which I will get later today) but in California, that equates to problem solved give or take a small percentage (i forget amount). Tight laws control the oh ya but, adds here thankfully. So again I will take advice, 10 hours for a top ASE mechanic reasonable?
 
Oh and while we are on it, is it feasible to go 5r55s version? And if so I imagine that would also mean some control module changes.......
 
Oh and while we are on it, is it feasible to go 5r55s version? And if so I imagine that would also mean some control module changes.......

It's only feasible if you do it this way. Sell gen I LS, and buy gen II LS. You'd have to change out most of the electronic modules, much of the wiring, and the engine (The PCM that will control the 5R55S will only control the gen II engine and it will only talk to the gen II modules, including the cluster).
 
OK... I see what you all say about aamco. I really hope this guy oversold what is wrong, and I appreciate all the input from you guys to help me not waste time/money. Anyhow went to pick up the car, and his explanation was the - and I may be using the wrong words - clutch pack is destroyed/worn. Its all those little bands that 'normal wear'. He even said he felt bad giving me the keys back because it was like giving the keys to a drunk driver. As far as the dealer, still havnt heard back from then what the $1300 estimate in labor really meant. She did say the problem was 'internal' and I am supposed to call back to her about what that means.

Anyhow, this all got me thinking about how easy it would be for anyone to scam. Basically just say the tranny is shot and pull the old put in the new. No way for the consumer to inspect the old. Having read all the forums and such it does seem that there is a solid pattern of bad solenoids - which should be a reasonable 'low cost' fix. Thus why I initially posted I felt from reading and my inexperience that was what it was.

To help us all debunk what is going on, let me try to be a little more specific, and please ask any questions of make any comments - I need the ammo to avoid any scams.

- Definite slow to engage into reverse, could be a couple seconds, could be as much as 10.
- Usually, the longer the wait, the more likely I get the wham, did someone just hit me engagement in reverse.
- About 1 in 15 times, I will get that wham, the rest of the time it will either be normal, or a small clunk.
- I don't believe its slipping in reverse, but most of the time I am backing up small incline into my carport. I am being REAL careful on the accelerator as not to slam into the next car, or wall but once in awhile when I press it wont go, but on those times I feel it hadn't engaged yet, due to no clunk. Putting it in park and back in reverse then works. AAmco guy says he feels lots of slipping even some in forward.
- Also says the forward rings are just as bad and are going next, but to me the car going forward has been real smooth for the most part, and if anything 2-3 shift seems a little slow, higher revs to 2500 or 2700, never beyond 3000. Occasionally it will bump a little then, but certainly no hard wham like the reverse.
- 3 to 4 I cant think I ever felt an issue.
- I haven't done much highway driving yet, tomorrow I will do more about 50 mile round trip to VA. So 4 to 5 I may have felt a little stutter once or twice, but I am so far from certain of that on the half dozen short 5 mile highway hops I really cant say I know an issue is there, just saying to help.

Anyway, the history of the car is the son of an 80 ish old woman sold it to me, grandpa kept all of the receipts for work and I have them. They match carfax and more. They lived in a coastal farm town above santa barbara, and advertised it as highway miles and garage kept - and I believe both it is so pristine in the engine and interior. Grandpa even went so far as to write down mileage monthly, any notes on work on standard sheet paper - which I have and that all matches to receipts. As far as the family goes, the son lives in the rich side of town, has a pristine Cobra in his garage that I sat by for an hour while doing all the papers, works for a major car company. My point here is I cant buy that they simply neglected the transmission as to have major internal damage done. But you tell me.

As far as neglect, the AAmco guy said the fluid was full and good, the constant receipts from 3k to 4k miles on lube services tell me it likely never leaked, as stated no transmission receipts, just one comment from a last receipt for valve gasket about service tranny for hard shift - probably the reverse. Neither dealer nor aamco has mentioned seeing any evidence of leak on the tranny.

Ultimately, my gut tells me the internals should NOT have gone bad in the less than 100k miles (I just turned it 100k last week) with this cars history. Oh and the aamco guy says the solenoid is working great, which from what I can tell if it goes too long will help destroy the interior, but if it is working great, how did that happen. What do you all think?
 
Oh, and from what I describe, should I park the vehicle like aamco says - its a deathtrap he implied!
 
Okay. Take all this with a big grain of salt. I'm not there, and I haven't seen what anyone that has looked at it has.
That said...

Based on your symptoms, it surely doesn't sound like a shot transmission to me. It sounds like it could just be the solenoid assembly or the PCM to me. If you can afford some down time, there is a company you can send the PCM to for testing and rebuild. Those on this forum that have tried them had good experiences. I think is it less than $100 if they find nothing wrong and about $200 if they have to fix it. This is the place: http://0343881.netsolstores.com/

If not the PCM, the solenoid assembly seems likely (I'd guess more likely than the PCM, but we have seen it be at fault too). It may be that you need to find some hole-in-the-wall local one or two man transmission shop. Find out who the local repair places send their transmission work to. It may be that they've never seen an LS, but I'm sure they've seen more than a few Explorers and Rangers.

When the pan is dropped, if there is a lot (not some, but a lot) of material sitting in the bottom, then maybe they are right about the clutches and bands, otherwise I really doubt it. Of course, there will be some friction material down there after 100K miles. AAMCO uses that as justification to replace good transmissions.

Also, It sure doesn't sound like a deathtrap to me.
 
Thanks joe. BTW check engine light has never gone on, the dealer never mentioned any error codes from there '100 point' inspection and check out of the tranny either. As far as down time, luckily my daily driver to work is a bicycle. ;)

That was my thoughts as well this morn, after a night of lost sleep. Even though these guys have great reviews, what stops them from saying all tranny is shot, pulling a good one, giving it to a bud to refresh then start that process all over again. Certainly nothing the average guy could see inside. I appreciate the tip about the pan, I am 99% certain the guy didnt take the time to pull that, and I have a line on another shop that appears good (independant). Going to play it a little different this time, and if he says the same ask if he pulled the pan to be certain.

Another thing. They say that its heat that causes these things to blow. The receipts show a concern about overheating, but then they did the spark plug replace and on that is a temp sensor - I assume since there is no part # it is probably on the manifold since they were in that area. Car did randomly over heat one day for me, I immediately topped it off with about a little less than half gallon coolant. No problem after that, but then had the Therm housing replaced (aluminum now) and got the part and did see the 'two small leaks' basically around the thermostat cover area. Pressure test by lincoln after that showed all to spec. If the transmission overheats, does that show up on the dash? If the engine is overheating, would the tran be affected too? I think in that case any long term enough to burn the parts heat damage would show in the engine as well....
 
- Definite slow to engage into reverse, could be a couple seconds, could be as much as 10.
- Usually, the longer the wait, the more likely I get the wham, did someone just hit me engagement in reverse.
- About 1 in 15 times, I will get that wham, the rest of the time it will either be normal, or a small clunk.

EXACTLY my symptoms when the solenoid pack needed replacement. New solenoid pack and problem sorted!
 
Makes me want to go to the A.ll A.utomatics M.ust C.ome O.ut near work and inquire about the silver Gen 2 that's been sitting out front with no plates for a few weeks now
 
Makes me want to go to the A.ll A.utomatics M.ust C.ome O.ut near work and inquire about the silver Gen 2 that's been sitting out front with no plates for a few weeks now

hehe that made me giggle even while I am frustrated.
 
EXACTLY my symptoms when the solenoid pack needed replacement. New solenoid pack and problem sorted!

I'm going with Solenoid Pack went bad or Reverse Servo is worn and leaking or getting stuck. Solenoid pack is most likely culprit like others have mentioned. Even if you buy it and that's not the fix, the new solenoid pack can be moved to the rebuilt transmission since it's essentially new. You'd want to replace that during a rebuild anyways.
 
Your symptom list sounds a lot like mine. The PCM fix made mine shift correctly again. I also replaced the solenoid first, before someone here posted the possibility that the PCM was the issue. Between replacing the solenoid or sending off the PCM for repair, I'd DEFINITELY do the PCM repair because unless you have little girly hands that solenoid is damned hard to impossible to get out. I was skeptical of the PCM fix but desperate for a fix on mine because I bought my LS to give my wife a comfortable ride due to a severe back injury and the car was beating the crap out of her no matter how I played with the throttle. But run my degas cap loose if it didn't fix the problem!

If the PCM doesn't have an issue they charge an inspection fee, if it's broken they fix everything wrong and charge a higher repair fee. Nice thing is, it's either one or the other, no surprises, and their work is excellent. And, you can always go back and do the solenoid if the PCM gets a clean bill of health.

On SCAAMCO, a town I used to live in had several of them. It was impossible to buy a trans at the local salvage yards because they had a standing order for all transmissions that worked. Those shops would tell you that your trans was bad and needed a full rebuild. If you told them to go ahead, you got a salvage yard trans and a warranty. If the "new" trans was bad, guess what the warranty got you. Eventually they'd get you a good one in there.
 
Ok, so today was my first serious drive to the V A. 15 ish highway miles and 1 over the hump in Hollywood Hills (decent 3 mile upgrade). Anyhow, I treated her gingerly on the way, no more than 60 mph, and didnt have a concern. Went to 65-70, when I could on the way back until traffic (back end of the hill) and still didnt seem bad. In fact it seemed real smooth on way back. I may be imagining it, but it might work better hot. Back in town the 3 or 4 reverses out of parking were mild.

Anyway, I think we are on the right track, and the stop I made at the indy tran shop seemed good. Guy was a Vet as well, lol. So hope that accounts for something. He also wouldnt even suggest anything until he dropped the pan, so again the right direction. Going to call his boss who was out on Monday and arrange something, wish me luck.

Oh and someone sees this again, is it the PCM we are talking about the fix - the one that I need the keys reprogrammed - or the TCM? Those are the references Ford uses for replacement parts - not that I will buy new, just want to make sure I attack the right one.
 
The TCMs just part of the PCM,I believe. It's a separate connector on the PCM. don-ohio
 
The TCMs just part of the PCM,I believe. ...

Yes.

If you get your PCM repaired, you do not need to do any key programming. It will retain all that. If you replace your PCM with another PCM, then you need to reprogram the keys before it will start.
 
That the problem comes and goes, to me at least, points towards the PCM. Occasionally mine would shift correctly. A hard part failure generally gets worse over time, and never gets better or acts normally.
 
Telco sniped: `But run my degas cap loose if it didn't fix the problem'

You didn't leave it loose long enough,Telco! LOL! don-ohio (:^)
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top