Timing Chain Noise??

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johnboy89

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I recently purchased a 93 mark VIII that has the dreaded timing chain tick/clack. It only does it when cold(about 10min.) and is quite loud, going away when it warms up. I know adding synthetic(next on to do list) and changing to correct oil filter which I already have will quiet it some, but is it okay to leave for awhile or does it need to be addressed right away? Also is it a big job to change/fix this???

Thanx:)
 
well considering I am going to change mine come the 15 second tick, 10 Min is really :eek: I am at the 4 second tick right now but the anti drain back smartens it up a lot. Being that the dohc 4.6 is an interference motor I would make haste on changing it... one skipped tooth & it may be game over for a few or all of your valves....In retrospect the tensioners needs to be addressed for sure!! but like anything else mechanical do the "works" when you have it apart......My friend has done the chains in his and it was simple just pull the rad & you can do it in the car.
 
Mine used to do a 3-4 sec. noise but when i switched to royal purple synthetic it either is 1-2 sec. or none. 10 min sucks though.
 
It does go on for some time, but the noise varies during that time. Sometimes goes away and other times it's back. What's interesting is that this morning I really didn't hear it at all. I'm starting to wonder if it's something other than the tensioners as it seems others only have the problem for a short period of time:confused: To me it sure sounds like a chain rattle though and it goes away when I depress the gas in park and comes back on decelleration. About how long does it take to do them and are there any special tools I need to buy? Do the chains need to completely come off??
 
kustomizingkid said:
10 minutes??

I wouldn't drive your car until you got the tensoiners changed.
Click to expand...

ditto-
non-interference engine, it would be almost (surely)be fatal if it went at the wrong time-park it, drive a beater, save it-it is not worth the risk.

Not a job for the faint of heart, but it can be done if you take your time-I am a big fan of the anti-drainback valve on a good oil filter, but it's up to you-if you have any major doubts, you should at least get a second opinion. If it sounds better, that's encouraging.
 
since you just got the car id change the oil and filter (motorcraft FL820 S) and i wouldn't recommend the chains for anyone without a ford service manual and all the special tools, cuz just like if your chain skips, if you put it out of time then fire it, its over anyways.
 
You'd think it would be as simple as, pulling the cover, marking the gears in their current place, if the timing is still good, remove the old chains, replace with new chains, replace tensioner, replace cover.

But then again, I'm not Ford Mechanic either, I'll look it up in my manual.

Check it out!
This is for a 1997 Mark VIII

http://cis.macc.edu/~aboley/97 Mark8 Timing.pdf

Oh, that looks simple!!!!!! Someone else try it first and let me know how it goes!!!!
 
Try this....
When you first start the car, before turning the key..
Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold it.
Crank the ignition for 5-8 seconds, do not release the gas pedal.

with the gas pedal depressed your are telling the PCM the engine is flooded and it wont fire the injectors and the engine wont start.

After cranking for 5-8 seconds, release the key, release the gas pedal and then crank the car, it will start, it wont be as noisy because you "primed" the cam chain tensioners when you were doing the 5-8 second crank with the gas pedal held down.

works really well.. if you ask me.
Give it a shot.
 
Update

Well I changed the oil to Mobil I and already have a Napa gold filter in there which is supposed to be a anti-drainback filter. The noise is still there and appears to almost be worse now and there most of the time. It does quiet down considerably when the car warms up, but is still there if you rev it up in neutral you can hear it clack when getting off the gas(RPM decreasing). I spent sometime after work today trying to locate the noise. The more I listen it appears it is coming from the center area of intake tubes or passenger valve cover area. I tried with the stethoscope to narrow it down with no success:( . Maybe later this week I'll record the noise with my camera and post, so everyone can hear it.

Thanx:)
 
I'm not joking, DON NOT drive the car if it is making that much noise. The chains skip one tooth and your engines :q:q:q:qED!
 
kustomizingkid said:
I'm not joking, DON NOT drive the car if it is making that much noise.
Click to expand...

I agree, the noise shouldn't be an "all the time noise".

the method I describe above is only to solve/decrease the normal ordinaly cam chain rattle.
 
I use the full throttle method after changing my oil, they really rattle if you don't right after changing the oil and filter.
 
That sounds really bad, I would even crank that motor over until you open it up and see whats up. I've heard a 2v eat a valve spring, it was a bit louder than that.
 
sounds expensive-sorry dude, it does sound like a rocker arm or a valve spring, it should be obvious which side it's on. that su3ks-Ouch.:yuck:
 
XLRVIII said:
I agree, time to pull a valve cover off and see what "doesnt look right".
Click to expand...
:I
Too much RPM red line means red line :)
My guess would be bent or out of place rocker.
Listen to the kid dont drive it untill you fix it unless you want to destoy it.
 
If its "only" a rocker, valve spring or lifter.. it's "not that bad"...as it can be repaired with only removing the valve cover.

If you get in there quickly and fix it, you might "dodge the bullet".
IF it's not a lifter, rocker or valve spring... it might be "terminal" in the case of a valve or piston.

I'd pull the valve cover very soon and see what looks like it's "not like the others".
 
ford nut said:
:I
Too much RPM red line means red line :)
Click to expand...

heck I run mine well into an past the redline.
commanding the 1-2 shift at 6500 and it actually completes the shift somewhere in the 7200 range.
Would I suggest others do that.. NOPE.
but I aint scared to break something either..haha
 
Definitely something in the valvetrain. You can try to run seafoam in the crankcase and pray it's a stuck lash adjuster...
 
XLRVIII said:
heck I run mine well into an past the redline.
commanding the 1-2 shift at 6500 and it actually completes the shift somewhere in the 7200 range.
Would I suggest others do that.. NOPE.
but I aint scared to break something either..haha
Click to expand...

I too rev past red.... BUT you and I would have had the cover off by now. :p
 
Well took the passenger cover off today and found nothing. All the springs looked good as much of them as I could see. Rockers were all tight nothing loose or bent. Not sure what was in the oil when I bought the car, but the noise has really started after I changed the oil and especially after putting synthetic in there. Noise still appears to be coming from the center rear intake area. Also noticed that the cam gear has a date code of F5, which tells me that someone has been inside that engine before???? After running the car for about ten minutes as stated above you would never know it was the same car.
 
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