Stuck in middle of blend door fix

Okay. Tried lifting then pulling. No success. The "pivot point", where it seems like it's still attached, would be just to the left of the steering wheel. I double checked the nut behind the relay and it's definitely off.
 
GMAN said:
The colum should lay on the floor. You need to remove the crossmember secured with the four 8mm bolts, and remove the ac duct.[/Q

Thanks again, GMAN. It worked! Now to figure out where to go from here. At least I can get to it now. Excellent advice!
Click to expand...
 
If you want more room you can remove the small bolt at the rag joint and the column will come right out. Also, if you need more room to see remove the message center display.
 
If you take the column out be sure not to let the steering wheel spin free
You dont want to brake the clock spring.
 
Not sayin that I'm giving up, but I give up. I cannot bend in the directions a body needs to contort to access that upper left hand corner bolt. I can barely get my finger on it, let alone a tool. I was going to hazard buying a 1/4 pneumatic wrench, since my 3/8 with an 1/4 adaptor is too long to fit up in there. Also, since my actuator appears to be okay, I'just going to replace the broken gray arm that controls the blend door. Hopefully that will last a couple years (don't really use the heater all that much down here). If it does'nt last, I'll go visit one of the more capable people close by and pay them to do it for me. Thanks for all the advice and help.
 
You're running a marathon and you're stopping five miles before the finish line literally. There are plenty of members in Florida. Is there anyone close to Daytona to help you at this point?
 
marked8 said:
Also, if you need more room to see remove the message center display.
Click to expand...

^ what marked 8 said.
pull off light switch...cover pops off it has spring clips....pull screws behind cover.....pull screws above speedo and wala cover will pop off.

Pull screws on message center display.....pull message center display..look down with a flashlight and you will see the bolt your fighting...6mm I think.

Use 1/4 drive with swivel and socket and the door will fall out.

You are that close.

Drink a beer....have a sandwich.
GO DO IT!!!

:)
 
ford nut said:
^ what marked 8 said.
pull off light switch...cover pops off it has spring clips....pull screws behind cover.....pull screws above speedo and wala cover will pop off.

Pull screws on message center display.....pull message center display..look down with a flashlight and you will see the bolt your fighting...6mm I think.

Use 1/4 drive with swivel and socket and the door will fall out.

You are that close.

Drink a beer....have a sandwich.
GO DO IT!!!

:)
Click to expand...

You don't need to remove any of that to pull the dash.
 
Last edited:
ford nut said:
^ what marked 8 said.
pull off light switch...cover pops off it has spring clips....pull screws behind cover.....pull screws above speedo and wala cover will pop off.

Pull screws on message center display.....pull message center display..look down with a flashlight and you will see the bolt your fighting...6mm I think.

Use 1/4 drive with swivel and socket and the door will fall out.

You are that close.

Drink a beer....have a sandwich.
GO DO IT!!!

:)
Click to expand...

Had a few beers, played a round of golf, ordered my new blend door arm. It won't be here 'til tomorrow, and I won't be able to do any work on it 'til Saturday. I'll try going in through the message center to get at that pesky upper bolt. I won't be broken hearted if I can't replace the actuator, since it's not really broken, but GMAN is right about being near the end of the race. Hate to give up now. Thanks for the kicks in the posterior. Need them sometimes since I'm not married anymore.
 
Just did mine two weeks ago and I pulled the message center to see/remove that bolt.
It made it easy for this old man.
 
The gray arm is F7LZ-19D846-BD

$5.20 + tax at the local dealer.

I had already bought the actuator for $37.83 on ebay. That was part #YH-1842 or a variant of F7LZ-19E616-AD. Dealer wanted $43.87 for that.
 
I didn't have to go through the message center. Once I move the dash as far foward as possible, i used a 1/4 ratchet with an extenion and 8mm socket and got all 4 screws out. You wont be able to see them, but you should be able to close your eyes and put your ratchet on it.
 
Suckcess! Kinda. Got the actuator off by going through the message center. That made getting to that upper left hand bolt easy. I elongated the hole on the one end of the connecting bracket, and trimmed a little on the lip of the gray arm That's all back together now. The black arm on the actuator was broken too, so it's a good thing I didn't just replace the gray arm alone.

Of course the part that s*cks was breaking the two vent louvers away from the cowling, and also 3 of the clips that held the cowling onto the dash broke also. Had to yank pretty hard to pull it out. I'm using epoxy on the vent louvers, but will put the cowling back on without the 3 clips. Should not be an issue. If you can do this without lowering the steering wheel all the way and taking the message center out, my hat's off to you!

If I had to do it again, I prolly wouldn't. Living in Florida I probably would have done the temp fix and lived with that. I'll end up with a sense of accomplishment and a working heater. I can also clean the inside of the message center lens, which was pretty dirty. I never would have attempted this without the guides on this site, and definitely wouldn't have finished it without the help from the members.

Not sure what my next project will be, but my confidence level is a little higher thanks to Gman, Ford Nut, and others.

Bob.
 
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