Starter
- Thread starter LINCBRA
- Start date
The exhaust will have to be unbolted from the manifold.
The top bolt can be a pain if it's in there tight.
If it's in there too tight to remove directly, you can use 3 or 4 extensions and swivels to turn it from inside the engine bay where you'll have more room to put your weight into the work.
Have a friend lay under the car to hold the socket on the bolt while you turn it.
When you reassemble everything, remember to not put that top bolt in real tight; just snug.
The top bolt can be a pain if it's in there tight.
If it's in there too tight to remove directly, you can use 3 or 4 extensions and swivels to turn it from inside the engine bay where you'll have more room to put your weight into the work.
Have a friend lay under the car to hold the socket on the bolt while you turn it.
When you reassemble everything, remember to not put that top bolt in real tight; just snug.
unity
Dedicated LVC Member
"When you reassemble everything, remember to not put that top bolt in real tight; just snug."
Maybe for just the top one, but I have seen a few starters come loose, those things have A LOT of torque.
Maybe for just the top one, but I have seen a few starters come loose, those things have A LOT of torque.
Markviiiedrea
Speed Bump
You need all three bolts in there, when I did the tranny in my car the first time I left the top bolt out and the other two came loose and chewed the starter up.
Who ever says it's hard to get that top bolt out, isn't doing it right. Just use 30" worth of extensions with a u-joint in the middle and just go in from the front of the car over the k-member, once you get the exhaust off, 20 min you will have it out.
Who ever says it's hard to get that top bolt out, isn't doing it right. Just use 30" worth of extensions with a u-joint in the middle and just go in from the front of the car over the k-member, once you get the exhaust off, 20 min you will have it out.
ford nut
Local nut case
I did it without pulling the exhaust its tight but it can be done with a swivel deep well socket and a short extension for the PITA top bolt.
The swivel needs to be on to the ratchet wrench then the extension then the socket I think I used a deep well if not use a standard socket.
The swivel needs to be on to the ratchet wrench then the extension then the socket I think I used a deep well if not use a standard socket.
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
ps do the top bolt first, that way you dont have all the weight of the starter hanging on it making it tight the whole way out
Frat-man-du
Dedicated LVC Member
Good point. I have to replace my starter this week (at least I hope it's the starter and not the flywheel). Anyone use Autolite Pro Series(new not reman)?
Many moons ago when I replaced my first starter (in the school parking lot at night) I didn't disconnect the battery and boy was I surprised when the pos cable arced against the block.
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
no experience with autolite, sorry i work at a stealership, so its FoMoCo all the way for me. and careful about arcing wrenches off of stuff (i know you didnt mean to) but lots of newer cars have fuse-able links and if you short out stuff like that you will burn them up and you aint going no where, till you wire in another link. trust me i found out the hard way on a v6 contour i fried like 3 of them, i disconnected the battery but the negative cable worked its way back up to the battery and proceeded to scare the $hit out of me!