nichole_knc
New LVC Member
Well I have now completely disassembled both a standard shifter and the SST shifter for the 00-02 model year...
Easy stuff....
The shift switches are Burgess 022/02 F . These were built for Ford.. However they are replaceable..
Current Burgess numbers for direct replacement are as follows..
You will have to use the actuation lever off the old switch
# V4N or X4 series can be used..
The switch size is 20 x 9 x 6 (mm)..
pre-wire or solder lugs
Tech notes:
1 - solder lugs will allow you to use the existing wiring without splicing..
2 - X4 series is a heavier switch
3 - switches can be ordered with a sealed option.. those coffee spills are what is killing these lame switches..
4 - these switches are operating NO (normally open)
For those with a standard shifter where D4 has failed...
The repair is very easy.. The shifter itself it snap together. All switches are in cradles, snapped in and there is only one in the standard for shifting..
with red and yellow wires.. Important note: the new burgess switches with a pre-wire option has red (common) - yellow (NC) - blue (NO) If you order pre-wires you will be using red and blue.. Refer to the switch data to insure the correct wiring of the switch..
Remove center console.. snap off back vents, unplug rear power and snap off top, unplug traction.. Remove trim at ashtray. Two 7mm bolts front, 2 rear plus vent duct screw.. It is easier with vent duct off. Snap out brake boot, release is in the front underside, rolls out toward drivers seat. Pull brake up as high as you can, lift console and push boot down as you lift console off. Extra hand goes good here...
Disassemble shifter..
remove knob.. a small screwdriver will help ya pop the lower ring down.. Two Phillips each side.. Mind the small metal washers that are on the screws they like to stay in the handle but will fly when you pull it off...
Remove light bulb holder from top.. Note: good time to replace that bulb..
The top id held on by 4 corner snaps.. Needle nose and a small screwdriver is all that is needed.. The snaps are white as you will see and only the last one is a pain (binding)..
Once this is removed you will see the switch on the right front under the Teflon guide.. get your light and look under the right side and you will see the snap ears of the switch cradle..
Small screwdriver again snaps it out with ease..
From here it is straight forward.. Replace the switch.. Either by cut and splice or cut and solder..
snap new switch in cradle removed from old switch and reinstall..
!!!!!!!Test your install!!!!!!! to make sure you wired in up right..
Reverse order and put it all back..
See told you guys.. Easy stuff..
The SST shifter
The same can be done with a failed SST shifter.. IT is the same micro switches in it.. The shifter disassembles the same way..
The up shift is the rear switch the down shift the front switch.
When the SST is shifted it engages both switches to engage sst mode. When the shift handle is pulled back it disengages the front switch causing the down shift. Return reengages both switches.. Up shift does the reverse, keeping the front switch engaged while releasing the rear switch..
The other stuff...
This transmission is electronic.. The shift bar that extends into the transmission is there due to DOT..
Very easy to see and understand as a flash changes this pattern..
Standard shift as we know the small back shift drops it to third and the subsequent shifting to second and first does move the lever about 5mm. All it is doing is moving switching internal to the transmission.. Which as you know is not required with the SST.. You can put an SST in place of the standard and and it works just fine, except the D4 shift.. The flash fixes that..
I see no reason why a dual mode type shifter cannot be designed for this ride..
Most likely all that is required is a bit of software hacking at this point and possibly a new switch added for selection..
Not sure on this part as I am still reversing the ECM software and trans controls..
Stay tuned for more...
If you would like more details or photos of the shifters torn down please let me know..
Easy stuff....
The shift switches are Burgess 022/02 F . These were built for Ford.. However they are replaceable..
Current Burgess numbers for direct replacement are as follows..
You will have to use the actuation lever off the old switch
# V4N or X4 series can be used..
The switch size is 20 x 9 x 6 (mm)..
pre-wire or solder lugs
Tech notes:
1 - solder lugs will allow you to use the existing wiring without splicing..
2 - X4 series is a heavier switch
3 - switches can be ordered with a sealed option.. those coffee spills are what is killing these lame switches..
4 - these switches are operating NO (normally open)
For those with a standard shifter where D4 has failed...
The repair is very easy.. The shifter itself it snap together. All switches are in cradles, snapped in and there is only one in the standard for shifting..
with red and yellow wires.. Important note: the new burgess switches with a pre-wire option has red (common) - yellow (NC) - blue (NO) If you order pre-wires you will be using red and blue.. Refer to the switch data to insure the correct wiring of the switch..
Remove center console.. snap off back vents, unplug rear power and snap off top, unplug traction.. Remove trim at ashtray. Two 7mm bolts front, 2 rear plus vent duct screw.. It is easier with vent duct off. Snap out brake boot, release is in the front underside, rolls out toward drivers seat. Pull brake up as high as you can, lift console and push boot down as you lift console off. Extra hand goes good here...
Disassemble shifter..
remove knob.. a small screwdriver will help ya pop the lower ring down.. Two Phillips each side.. Mind the small metal washers that are on the screws they like to stay in the handle but will fly when you pull it off...
Remove light bulb holder from top.. Note: good time to replace that bulb..
The top id held on by 4 corner snaps.. Needle nose and a small screwdriver is all that is needed.. The snaps are white as you will see and only the last one is a pain (binding)..
Once this is removed you will see the switch on the right front under the Teflon guide.. get your light and look under the right side and you will see the snap ears of the switch cradle..
Small screwdriver again snaps it out with ease..
From here it is straight forward.. Replace the switch.. Either by cut and splice or cut and solder..
snap new switch in cradle removed from old switch and reinstall..
!!!!!!!Test your install!!!!!!! to make sure you wired in up right..
Reverse order and put it all back..
See told you guys.. Easy stuff..
The SST shifter
The same can be done with a failed SST shifter.. IT is the same micro switches in it.. The shifter disassembles the same way..
The up shift is the rear switch the down shift the front switch.
When the SST is shifted it engages both switches to engage sst mode. When the shift handle is pulled back it disengages the front switch causing the down shift. Return reengages both switches.. Up shift does the reverse, keeping the front switch engaged while releasing the rear switch..
The other stuff...
This transmission is electronic.. The shift bar that extends into the transmission is there due to DOT..
Very easy to see and understand as a flash changes this pattern..
Standard shift as we know the small back shift drops it to third and the subsequent shifting to second and first does move the lever about 5mm. All it is doing is moving switching internal to the transmission.. Which as you know is not required with the SST.. You can put an SST in place of the standard and and it works just fine, except the D4 shift.. The flash fixes that..
I see no reason why a dual mode type shifter cannot be designed for this ride..
Most likely all that is required is a bit of software hacking at this point and possibly a new switch added for selection..
Not sure on this part as I am still reversing the ECM software and trans controls..
Stay tuned for more...
If you would like more details or photos of the shifters torn down please let me know..
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