spring conversion for the track

zmt325

zmt325

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i talked to eddie and he cant help me with what i need

I want a performance minded spring suspension.
everytime i post something here it vanishes.
i have tried to post a build thread 2 times so :q:q:qk it
i think all i need is
front strut top plated out of a t-bird
rear plates for the springs
set of h&r cup springs
5 way adjustable konis
rear sway bar and links


please links and experience would be awesome
 
Some one with a tbird has coil over search tccoa
 
you guys rock i didnt get blazed once thanks. my budget is about 750-1000 so coilovers are probably out but i read that i could get away with about 600 for a great frankenstien set up. but no parts list. agian performance comes second to budget ride quality is about tenth on that list. it will be a dd to. but i drove a full race setup on an e30 bmw for about a year. so i know where every speed bump and pothole is in nashville

and when i say track i mean one that has turns both left and right
 
i stand corrected i am used to bmw part prices. like $2000 for coil overs. what kind of fab would it take to get these on my car. for that price i am in
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?p=512704#post512704 and the number has been disconected. but i am all in for a coil over set up i will do a full pic build thread on this mod. if i can get it at or close to this price

i am searching now
 
I use H&R springs and Koni's F&R on my SC, that would be my suggestion.
 
zmt325 said:
i stand corrected i am used to bmw part prices. like $2000 for coil overs. what kind of fab would it take to get these on my car. for that price i am in
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?p=512704#post512704 and the number has been disconected. but i am all in for a coil over set up i will do a full pic build thread on this mod. if i can get it at or close to this price

i am searching now
Click to expand...

Pm 392bird on tccoa for mor info
 
I used standard height coil conversion, all other suspension parts are new, 1 3/8 front and rear sway bar, all poly bushings, edelbrock rear shocks......it handles like it is on a rail......put the lowered conversion kit on, all the braces for the front end and make some frame connectors and your done......ride is very rough the way I have it.....some bumps I would call jarring.......car will lift opposite corner off the ground turning into driveways if it is somewhat off camber.

When I say it handles like it is on a rail.....i can roll around the outside of curves (posted 45 mph) passing my buddy (him hugging the inside) at 85mph pulling hard on the exit.
PS....we grew up together, have raced 3 and 4 wheelers, snowmobiles, and 2 seasons of dirt go karts together......We live in the middle of nowhere, Still not safe I know, but we know each others limits, and know the roads that we pull our stunts on.
 
IllinoisMarkVIII said:
I used standard height coil conversion, all other suspension parts are new, 1 3/8 front and rear sway bar, all poly bushings, edelbrock rear shocks......it handles like it is on a rail......put the lowered conversion kit on, all the braces for the front end and make some frame connectors and your done......ride is very rough the way I have it.....some bumps I would call jarring.......car will lift opposite corner off the ground turning into driveways if it is somewhat off camber.

When I say it handles like it is on a rail.....i can roll around the outside of curves (posted 45 mph) passing my buddy (him hugging the inside) at 85mph pulling hard on the exit.
PS....we grew up together, have raced 3 and 4 wheelers, snowmobiles, and 2 seasons of dirt go karts together......We live in the middle of nowhere, Still not safe I know, but we know each others limits, and know the roads that we pull our stunts on.
Click to expand...


sounds like u got it made with the "private back road" i used to have the same set up back in my "invincable" days. i had this road station camp creek RD. it was a ribbon or perfectly banked old road that followed the path of a creek. at about 2 am i would get about 10 of my best buds, one on each end of the road with cb's, and one at a time we would time trial. and then run no more than 2 cars on the road at once it was a blast and no one ever got hurt. but a freind of mine on his way home one night decided to do 140mph (with tires we wouldnt let him run on) on vietnam vets blvd. blew a left rear.flipped 10+ times killed him and his pregnant wife. we never had race night agian. and since then (10+ yrs ago) they straightend st camp and put a school on it. so be careful and keep it shiney thoes beautyfull mk 8 lines can be harshly modifed by a tree real quick.

eddie no longer offers the lowering conversion and he never offered adjustable struts :(

so in the end of all that if you want to go fast allways inspect your car first, if you dont it might kill you. and try to take it to a track they will inspect it for you.
 
just found h&r sports for 185.68 shipping from az for 25.68 hells yeah!!!!
the struts on the other hand are $224 front and $262 for rear shocks wow so were talking $900+ after i get the rear bushings from dlf $300 plus i need to look up the rear sway bar. and i thought i could get away with 6or$700

any cheap suppliers of koni's or other great shock/strutt combo u guys know of out there tire rack said it would be 2 mo. i cant wait that long

o and the front coil overs were 650 just for the front they are not designed for the t-bird they are a set that can be used for anything from a bug to a bmw so im out.
 
It's worse than you think.

The Koni fronts are not complete units, just inserts that are designed to go inside the stock T-Bird shock hosuings, so you'll also have to get some donor units to gut.

I used cheap Monroe units from Rockauto, and also got the upper shock mounts and lower spring pads from there.
 
pull a part rocks

there are about 10 tbirds and cougars plus i am going to go get the one pc dshaft out of the early 93.
is there any alt. shock strutt combo that is as good without the fab work. dont get me wrong i love fab work but i like to work smart so i dont have to work hard. plus there $500 front and rear (and i thouhgt bmw parts were bad)

if i get the 2 strutt assemblys off a donor and the rear mounts from you. springs shocks and struts and swaybar what else do i need

i just did the math on this so i am sticker shocked

parts from pull a part aprox $50
front konis $224
rear konis $264
h&r sports $185
addco rear bar $179
dlf's rear spring seat set $300

grand total $1200

I did not expect that at all was expecting more like 8 or 9
 
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zmt325 said:
there are about 10 tbirds and cougars plus i am going to go get the one pc dshaft out of the early 93.
is there any alt. shock strutt combo that is as good without the fab work. dont get me rong i love fab work but i like to work smart so i dont have to work hard.

if i get the 2 strutt assemblys off a donor and the rear mounts from you. springs shocks and struts and swaybar what else do i need
Click to expand...

I'd get Energy Suspension sway bar mounts, as I suggested in my PM.

And if you really want to do the IRS right, then a set of Delrin IRS Bushings.

But, I'm biased, of course. :D

Form Rockauto, the front upper shock mount and lower spring rubber:

KYB Part # SM5187 $32.79 ea $65.58

RAYBESTOS Part # 5251262 $5.08 ea $10.16
 
i will do the delrin kit the same time i traklok the rear with 3.73. but for now i have gotta get this car off the ground, change all the fluids, jmod it and drive it a while

for now i need cheaper performance shocks and struts any suggestions

i am about to do the math on illinoismarkviii stuff and see the difference in price. i know eddie is a great guy but i really wanted something more performance minded.

i had read somewhere that someone did this for under 700 i have searched everywhere and cant find it. the only thing holding me up is coming off that chedar it hurts everytime
 
kyb dosent like our money they only offer oem. i am about to call bilstine they were my fav on the bimmers. its just the koni's are o so much

and bilstene is closed.

i now have the entire weekend to let you guys tell me what you think. i will be doing all the work myself i am very experenced in building bmw's but have never messed with one of these beasts. i have every tool available. (within reason no flux capasitors or cnc machines) i want a sport minded suspension for under $750. i could do that all day long on an e30 . so far i have only found one good way to do it and that will cost me $1200. (i can get a coil over kit for that for the e30)

I know one of you guys has done this so please help me out. i have been searching for like a month. it has been like finding a unicorn.i have heard people talk about it but never actualy seen it or any part list.
 
Bilstein no longer makes Thunderbird shocks, you're 3-4 years too late.
 
so thats it

ether i go with eddie about 500 for a stock like ride or i spend $1200?? :mad: there has to be another way. it seemed i could get that coil over kit for about 1300. but that article was 5 yrs old. i even talked with the guy that did the thread he lives like 20 min away from me. i need to do more invest on the coil over setup. if i am going to spend 1200 why not go 1300 for coil overs

but agian if anyone knows a cheaper set of struts and shocks. that you have had great luck with. please let me know. i would like to work the little bugs out of this car before i go and blow all my cash on kyb's
 
zmt325 said:
there are about 10 tbirds and cougars plus i am going to go get the one pc dshaft out of the early 93.
is there any alt. shock strutt combo that is as good without the fab work. dont get me wrong i love fab work but i like to work smart so i dont have to work hard. plus there $500 front and rear (and i thouhgt bmw parts were bad)

if i get the 2 strutt assemblys off a donor and the rear mounts from you. springs shocks and struts and swaybar what else do i need

i just did the math on this so i am sticker shocked

parts from pull a part aprox $50
front konis $224
rear konis $264
h&r sports $185
addco rear bar $179
dlf's rear spring seat set $300

grand total $1200

I did not expect that at all was expecting more like 8 or 9
Click to expand...

You didn't list a front sway bar.

Not really a good idea to just put a big one on the back, best to get a matched set F&R if you're going to use either the 1 3/8" or 1 1/4" bars.
 
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front sway bar

thank you verry much i didnt think i would need it. as i thought the rear would be all over the place and the front if i go to stiff it will understeer but now that is now on my list. i think i sourced the rear 1 3/8 addco bar used locally and the rear purches localy.

i am certin the purches that we have been talking about are far more superior but my budget is not allowing that for now i will be getting them in the fall when i trak lok and get the rest of the irs stuff from you :)
i think i can pull this off for under $900 just so i can drive it.

i have only put 1.2mi on i so far bc i value my front sub frame. and you never know whats going to happen when i do start to drive it.
 
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