Spindle/ball joint parts question ..searched...

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scjmc

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I have an 02 LS V8 Sport. I now have the infamous lower ball joint failure (play--lots of play). My question is this: Looking at team ford parts they list the 00-02 and 03-06 knuckle. The 03-06 knuckle is about $100 cheaper. Does anyone know if they 03+ knuckle will work?? I have heard of some members updating their front suspension to 03+ spec. What does that mean? Thanks.
 
gcwimmer said:
Did you try and contact Team Ford, site sponsor...to the right >>>>>
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I have takled to Bill before, but about a differant part. I was going to call him when I get home (on vacation). I have to drive home (1050 Mi) on Sunday with the bad ball joint.
 
arms

scjmc said:
I have an 02 LS V8 Sport. I now have the infamous lower ball joint failure (play--lots of play). My question is this: Looking at team ford parts they list the 00-02 and 03-06 knuckle. The 03-06 knuckle is about $100 cheaper. Does anyone know if they 03+ knuckle will work?? I have heard of some members updating their front suspension to 03+ spec. What does that mean? Thanks.
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Well for that 2000-2006 there are 2 size ball joints a 14mm and a 16mm. The dates are approx 3/22/99-7/15/01 for the 14mm and 7/16/01 up is the 16mm once you know that then we can get the correct part. Most of the time a complete vin number will let me access the ford build list for the car and that will tell us which exactly it is you have. Unless the date on your door is way before or after the dates listed the exact build date has to be from on line ford.That being said???? typed!! here are the prices and p/n's.....

4W4Z-3K185/6-BA 14MM LIST $294.85 LVC cost $210.35
6W4Z-3K185/6-AA 16MM LIST $188.05 LVC cost $135.40
each plus frt.

So to answer your question...does the newer one fit the older ones.....yes and no.
Most of the newer are the 16mm but not always. if you have the 14mm and wanted the newer 16mm you would also have to replace the lower control arms...another $350.00 each.
I hope this clears it up a little.
Send me the VIN# and I will research it for you on Wed when I get back to work.

HAPPY NEW YEARS!!!!!!

Max
 
Thanks for the info. I will send a PM with the Vin# when I get home from vacation on Monday.
 
so max, just to clarify, i had a creaking noise coming mainly from my passengers side front and they told me a had a bad lower ball joint. is this what a bad lower ball joint does when it is going out? i just don't want to get the wrong part. i need to replace both by the way. thanks in advance. btw i got the inside door handle for my car. it was ridiculously cheap and i ordered it on Wednesday and it was here on thursday, and only cost like 7 bucks for shipping. can't beat that! thanks max for giving members such good prices and great costumer service.
 
When ball joints go bad they can creak. Same for tie rods and upper ball joints too. My Ball joint is completely silent, but with the car jacked up off the ground I can pull up on the tire and there is play in the BJ. I also have abnormal tire wear on that corner.
 
i also get play on the tire and i think that was the main reason the mechanic told me that was the problem. i just want to make that creak go away and i want to be safe on the road. i'm worried that this can make me have an accident. and is this a job that can be done in a garage? or should i go with the mechanic route?
 
If the ball joint has play or is creaking it is failing. If it fails completely it will seperate! The BJ is the only thing that holds the knuckle to the lower controll arm. Your wheel will do something unpredictable that will likely cause a crash. Have you worked on front ends before? The repair can be made at your home if you have a good set of tools and a Ball Joint seperator tool.
 
scjmc said:
If the ball joint has play or is creaking it is failing. If it fails completely it will seperate! The BJ is the only thing that holds the knuckle to the lower controll arm. Your wheel will do something unpredictable that will likely cause a crash. Have you worked on front ends before? The repair can be made at your home if you have a good set of tools and a Ball Joint seperator tool.
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These cars don't need a ball joint separator tool on any of the front end or rear end swiveling devices. Once the nut is loose, the attachments simply fall apart. You use the "hex holding feature" to take these things apart, since there is no taper fit like old school ball joints and tie rods. (and sway bar end links) You have to hold the "bolt" from its end while you are unscrewing its nut. That is where the "hex holding feature" comes into play. You hold the "bolt" with a six-point socket while you turn the nut, which, in the northern climes with salt used on the roads, gets really interesting due to loaded threads with corrosion going up against internally locking nylon inserted nuts. Cleaning the threads and giving them lubrication makes the job doable.

If your LS suspension components ever come in contact with an uninformed mechanic yielding an air ratchet, you can kiss the rubber boots all good-bye due to the "bolt" of the ball joint spinning up to ratchet speed as soon as it loosens the nut from its initial holding torque. Nearly every one of my car's ball joints and tie rods had this done to them by someone with no knowledge of the proper way to loosen these things, at some point before I bought it. Although the boots can deal with turning of the ball joint bolts, they don't seem to hold up to air impact gun speeds after the vehicle has been in service for a few years.
 
Thanks for the info milehighmikey. Anything else I should not use an impact on when I change my lowers?
 
The only other things to be aware of are the shock bolts and the lower control arm bushings. They should be able to tolerate the impact. Pay attention to the positioning of the lower control arm bolts where they mount to the crossmember, as their position affects camber and also caster (don't quote me on that one) and also, use the impact wrench only on the nuts if you can, and hold the bolt heads with a suitable wrench. I don't know for sure, but on my Marauder, those LCA bolts are actually offset and are used to set the alignment, so when they turn, the bushings should wobble in an orbiting fashion. I can't recall whether the LS has the exact same setup from the factory, but if they do, and you can get to the bolt heads with that impact wrench, they will be wiggling in orbital madness. Good luck. Hopefully, I saved you some ball joint boots.
 
Don't tighten with an impact either; use a torque wrench and tighten to spec.
 
that's a lot of info to take in...i will be taking it to a professional now. thanks guys.
 
Thanks for the extra info. I will torque to spec and avoid the power tools except on the old parts.
 
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