Rough running ls

Cams-76

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I have a 2000 ls 3.9 auto 105k miles. Car ran real smooth and nice until this last weekend. It all of a sudden started running real rough. It didn't have a cel but I had them run it anyways and came up with code p0133. I replaced the driver upstream o2 sensor with a new Bosch and it didn't fix it. I even unplugged the batt for ten minutes to see if that would help. I replaced the pass upstream with the drivers side old o2 and still same rough idle. I took it back and had them scan it, now it has code p1152. Any suggestions? I have only had the car for the last 5k miles. I did change the oil from redline synthetic to Quaker state synthetic about 300 miles before this happened. The prev owner took good care of the car, he did mention he replaced a few of the coil packs as needed but Never did them all at once. I have a few motorcraft coil packs and the valve cover gaskets coming. How can I check the coils to see if they are bad?
 
All coils and plugs...at the same time....start with that.

Don't mess around with it...it will cost you more in the long run chasing a bad coil or two.
 
Welcome to LvC! Keep searching this forum, and read the stickies. Many of your questions have been answered, and many owners have been through these issues. It's most likely failing coils, which you cannot economically test at home. Depending on what you mean by "rough", it could actually be the timing chains.
 
It feels like it has a lope instead of running smooth. It's all the way through the rpms but most noticeable at idle and low speeds.
 
Are you guys running the cheapos for about $10 each on eBay? I ordered motor craft from rock auto thinking factory would be best.
 
i called the dealership where the prev owner had all the work on the car done at. here is what they have replaced

#4 coil pack and plug 1 year ago
#7 coil pack and plug 2011
#1 coil pack and plug May 2011

The service guy recommended i clean the MAF sensor, and said i probably have a bad coil pack also.
 
i called the dealership where the prev owner had all the work on the car done at. here is what they have replaced

#4 coil pack and plug 1 year ago
#7 coil pack and plug 2011
#1 coil pack and plug May 2011

The service guy recommended i clean the MAF sensor, and said i probably have a bad coil pack also.

Change all - Motorcraft - plugs too.
 
brand for the plugs a big deal? what a bummer one or two coil packs cannot be found to be bad. how often do the coil packs need changed.
 
brand for the plugs a big deal? what a bummer one or two coil packs cannot be found to be bad. how often do the coil packs need changed.

Actually, they're COPs (Coil-On-Plug) but they are frequently called coil packs anyway.

Most brands of plugs are probably okay, but NGK is pretty good and is one of the OEM plugs. I would stay away from Bosch.

It's very important to verify that the plug gap is 1 mm. Even though they are supposed to be already set, get a gauge and check them. If the gap is too big, it can quickly kill the coil.
 
I have two coil packs cop whatever coming in the mail Monday. They are almost $30 cheaper a piece from rockauto.com. I guess I will order the other six also. I am first going to try and clean the maf sensor
 
I cleaned the Mac sensor and still running rough. I'll get the coils on order.
 
Don't skip the plugs. A failed COP kills the plug. A bad plug then kills a new COP.
 
Don't get frustrated now, this is only the beginning. Cooling system is next.
 
What does wrong with the cooling system? The prev owner had something worked on with the cooling system at the dealer
 
What does wrong with the cooling system? The prev owner had something worked on with the cooling system at the dealer

The plastic parts all crack and fail (generally, except for the radiator). Also, you have gen I which has a hydraulic cooling fan. These seem to be much less reliable than the electric cooling fans of gen II. Be very careful that only Mercon V is added to the hydraulic reservoir. It might be a good idea to flush it out with new fluid now, before it is a problem.
 
Prev Owner already replaced the coolant res. per the dealer. So the cooling fan fluid should b changed out for Mercon5? How do I flush it?
 
No need to flush cooling fan fluid

I have the 01V6 with hydra fan, it's been a real PITA over the years, cost $$$$ to fix. I try to change the fluid now once a year. Use a turkey baster and suck out the old fluid in the tank, fill back up with fresh ATF.

i've burned up several fan motors and fan pumps until I started changing the fluids every year. Not sure if this is what helps, but it works for me.
 
After cop and spark plug install do I have to do anything for the system to relearn the idle? I saw a whole bunch of talk I don't understand about the o2 sensors needing to bullet or something? Should the problem be gone on immediate start up?
 
After cop and spark plug install do I have to do anything for the system to relearn the idle? I saw a whole bunch of talk I don't understand about the o2 sensors needing to bullet or something? Should the problem be gone on immediate start up?

No, despite what one (and only one) other member says, there is no relearning for plug and COP changes.

If you have changed all of the COP and all of the plugs (if I recall, you haven't changed them all, two years ago doesn't count) and verified (by measuring) that all plugs are at a 1mm gap, then your problem probably is somewhere else.

Have you connected a vacuum gauge to the intake to see if that looks correct? Cylinder balance test? Compression and leak down tests? Fuel injectors? Rag stuck in the intake manifold (sorry, inside joke)? Clogged cats?
 
You right I did not change all cops. Left the three the dealer installed. I will get the other three and install.
 
Another thing I noticed about the cops. They have a few different part numbers? I noticed most say the part is 529' a few I ordered had number 515
 

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