replaced my dccv.. and ac stopped working again

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zzmontyzz89

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At first I had the typical cool air on drivers side then warm on passenger with hot coming out the rear vents. So I read the forums here and everyone said its the dccv. So I replaced it this weekend and the problem was fixed!.....Until I got cold and tried turning my side up a couple degrees from 60- about 73. And then the ac went exactly back to how it was. Has anyone else had this problem after replacing the dccv? This is so frustrating so please give me a way to fix this.
 
What year is your LS?
Did you connect the DCCV electrical connector completely? Did you verify that the contacts were good and clean on the car side?
What brand was your new DCCV? (It was new, not used?)
What go you get from the DATC front panel diagnostics?
 
I have a 2000 v8 it didn't say the brand when I bought it but it was new and not used. Got it off of eBay for $99 I can check the connections when I get off of work but the datc comes up with all lights and that means nothing is frong is doesn't give any code.
 
zzmontyzz89 said:
What do you mean by on the car side?
Click to expand...

The connector on the end of the wire harness that plugs into the DCCV. (This is the car side of the connection. The connector on the DCCV itself is on the DCCV side of the connection.)
 
*UPDATE*
so I properly finished the engine bleeding process and the problem still hasnt changed. it still doesnt blow cold on the passenger side and its blowing hot in the rear air vents. Next is the connection but i do recall that i cleaned the dccv outside connection while i was replacing it. so only other thing would be to see if its not connected all the way.
 
Ok so I cleaned all of the connections and it still didn't change the ac problem. Any other reasons of why it would do this?
 
zzmontyzz89 said:
Ok so I cleaned all of the connections and it still didn't change the ac problem. Any other reasons of why it would do this?
Click to expand...

Let's get a better understanding of the problem.
There is no control or mechanism to alter the temperature of the rear vents relative to the front ones. Left and right side is the only temperature control possible.

Do the following test with the engine cold (just started).
Set the temperature to 60 on both sides (or use single mode). What is the temperature coming out of each side. Use a thermometer to measure if possible.

Do the following tests with the engine warmed up (temperature gauge in the middle position).
Set the temperature to 60 on both sides (or use single mode). What is the temperature coming out of each side. Use a thermometer to measure if possible.

Set the temperature to 90 on both sides (or use single mode). What is the temperature coming out of each side. Use a thermometer to measure if possible.

Do these tests and post the results. After that, we can list the possible problems and solutions.
 
alright i dont have a thermometer that will read the air temperature in my vehicle. any specific kind that i need?
But i can tell you right now that its the same temp. when the engine is cold and when engine is warmed up..
and my heat is HOT in every vent when i put temp at 90 and max .
 
cold start and warm engine at 60 degrees are exactly the same. no difference in any vents. its cool air on the drivers side but i know its not 60degrees. and the passenger side is warmer then the drivers. i dont know exact temperature but i can guesstimate that its around 78? its not cold enough to keep you from sweating if its hot outside thats for sure. only the drivers side will keep you a little bit cooled down when its 95 degrees outside. and the rear blows HOT AIR. it sucks for the people in the back of my car. they will sweat for sure.
 
Sounds like you may:
a. Be low on refrigerant.
b. Have blown the fuse to the AC clutch and DCCV.
c. Have a bad AC compressor clutch.
d. Have a bad AC clutch relay.
e. Have a bad AC compressor.
f. Have a bad evaporator temperature sensor.
g. Have a bad expansion valve.

There are other possibilities, but those are the more common ones to start out with.
 
A. I went put more refrigerant into it thinking the same thing, and the gauges showed good pressure.
B. I believe i checked the right fuse from recently researching that and seen that it was not blown, but could you show me a diagram of the fuse box + fuse # please.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G. How could i diagnose these? Sorry im new to this.
 
zzmontyzz89 said:
...B. I believe i checked the right fuse from recently researching that and seen that it was not blown, but could you show me a diagram of the fuse box + fuse # please.
...
Click to expand...

It's in your owner's manual.

Proper diagnosis of the problem requires both a high and low pressure gauge set. In fact, you should never add refrigerant without monitoring the high side pressure too. Too much refrigerant is even worse than too little. Anyway, this is one of those "if you have to ask", then you should seek a professional. In this case, a good Ford/Lincoln dealer is your best bet.
 
I have the high and low side gauges. They were both where they were supposed to be. I bought the car from a private owner so I don't have the owners manual.
 
zzmontyzz89 said:
I have the high and low side gauges. They were both where they were supposed to be. I bought the car from a private owner so I don't have the owners manual.
Click to expand...

You can download a pdf of the owner's manual from this site or from the Lincoln owner's site.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/?tabid=37

What were the high and low pressures and what was the outside temperature?
 
i checked the fuse and relay for the a/c clutch, they are working find. personally i think its a clog somewhere...when i started my car today after work it was about 83 degrees outside and all vents were blowing the same air ( cold ). when i started driving thats when it went back to normal. cold on drivers, warmer on passengers, hot out of rear....does this help?
 
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