Rear Seal, I Think?

DOHCtor_Mark

Active LVC Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2004
Messages
117
Reaction score
0
Location
Marietta
I'm assuming for now that my rear seal is leaking. Has anyone here pulled the tranny before? I stopped by the dealer and even my friends back in the service dept told me it was a PITA! I've only work with Mustangs when it comes to this stuff....so can anyone help me out? Any tips, tricks or suggestions???
 
DOHCtor_Mark said:
I'm assuming for now that my rear seal is leaking. Has anyone here pulled the tranny before? I stopped by the dealer and even my friends back in the service dept told me it was a PITA! I've only work with Mustangs when it comes to this stuff....so can anyone help me out? Any tips, tricks or suggestions???


I'm sure that Ray & Craig will have an answer for you.
 
Yanking the tranny is not an easy job, but by NO means is it that difficult either.

Here is what I did:

1) Turn off the switch in the trunk.

2) Disconnect the positive battery terminal.

3) Raise the car (if you have a lift), or jack up the car and put it on 4 jack stands. (the higher the better....you will have more room)

4) Drop the whole exhaust from the cats back.

5) Drop the gas tank (use steps 3 -13 from the linked post for the fuel tank).

6) Pull the driveshaft by performing the following:

a) Remove the (4) 12 point bolts from the driveshaft flange in the rear (if I remember correctly they are 13MM bolts....but you need a 12 point wrench to remove them.)

b) Remove the driveshaft hoop.

c) Pull the driveshaft from the tranny.

7) Use a plastic baggie to wrap up the open end of the tranny, and zip tie the baggie in place to minimize leaks.

8) On the passenger side remove the 2 cooling lines from the tranny.

9) Use another plastic baggie to wrap up the open ends of the lines, and zip tie the baggie in place to minimize leaks.

10) Remove the 3 bolts that hold the starter to the block.

11) Place a jack under the tranny to support it., I also used a small sheet of MDF (something I had laying around) to help support/center the tranny on the jack.

12) Disconnect the shifter linkage bracket from the driver side along with the shifter linkage to the tranny.

13) Disconnect the electrical connection on the drivers side.


** You will need LOOOOOOOOONG extensions to remove some of the bolts that hold the tranny onto the back of the motor. **


14) Remove the bolts that hold the tranny to the motor.

15) Remove the 2 bolts that hold the tranny crossover to the body of the car.

16) Lower the tranny to the floor and remove from under the car.

17) Reverse these steps and reinstall the tranny.

I hope this helps with the removal of the tranny. The upper most bolts on the bellhousing are the most difficult to get to, but it can be done.

As for the seal, not sure, give Max a call at 1-800-866-1520 ext. 236 not only should he be able to tell you that, but you can order the seal from him as well.
:Beer
 
Excuse my idiocy but, why am I removing the gas tank? Everything else makes sense though. Even on my 5.0 mustang it took about 3ft of extensions to reach the top two engine to transmssion bolts.
 
DOHCtor_Mark said:
Excuse my idiocy but, why am I removing the gas tank? Everything else makes sense though. Even on my 5.0 mustang it took about 3ft of extensions to reach the top two engine to transmssion bolts.

The gas tank is under the driveshaft.

The uppermost bolts I am not sure if you can reach from underneath the car.....but I could be wrong. I had to climb on top of the engine to get at mine......was easier for me.
:Beer
 
Now I feel like a complete idiot. Okay, the darn thing didn't leak at all today. I put it on the lift and there are a few drops of oil on the bellhousing but nothing out of the ordinary (haha) for a 140k mile car. Now, I'm wondering if that oil was in my parking spot when I got there. It seemed as fresh as mine but, I don't know.

As for the tranny removal, thanks 1WYKD. It doesn't seem to be too much different than pulling the tranny from a Mustang.
 
Just a pain, I have had to do a couple times here in the past few months, its tricky getting it in cuz of the EGR tube "worst design ever" but other than that a good friend, jack, tools and a foot off the ground you can knock it off in a week end, That's R&R.
 
Have you tried some simple oil stop leak? I lost 2 quarts in one day on my van and this stuff stopped the leak and it has not leaked since.
 
scott9050 said:
Have you tried some simple oil stop leak? I lost 2 quarts in one day on my van and this stuff stopped the leak and it has not leaked since.

What stop-leak did you use? I assume you mean motor oil and not tranny?
 
Stop Leak? Aren't these engine sensitive that stuff? I've been scared to run it in there. I'm not scared to pull the tranny out though, just had no idea that it couldn't be done in one day. This could be the perfect opportunity to install a one of those GER torque converters (rock on). They're on sale for $299.00 right now. I have a full-on shop here on the Navy base. Will I need a separate jack for the gas tank?
 
Are you sure it is the rear seal leaking? The reason I ask is that I had the dip stick tube o ring leak and it would come and go as I would a some fluid and then it would leak out until it stopped (under the add line). I finally took it to my local tranny shop and they replaced the dried out o ring in 20 minutes with the 3+ foot long extension and swivel socket with 2 guys needed to guide the long assembly to the bolt. Problem solved. These o ring are prone to drying out and cracking.
 
I'll have to look again. The fluid was leaking down from the dust shield on the bellhousing, in front of the torque converter. But there's no real evidence to show how it got there. I did notice this though; it doesn't leak when it's running. I'll check that as well. A $.05 O-ring beats 1.5 days of work any day.
 
Okay, the darn car stopped leaking and now I can't find it. Shizzle!!!!!!! Oh well back to the dyno!! Thanks for all your help. I printed the directions for removing the tranny. Does anyone know where I can get a service manual that is at least the equivalent to a Haynes manual. ?
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top