Ran Hot - Changed hose - Coil(s) bad now?

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mharrison

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My car ran hot. I didn't see the gauge until the idiot light came on DING DING DING....

Pulled over immediately, turned off, blown water pump outlet hose.

After a LOOOONNNNNNGGGGG story, the cooling system is now ok.

The car ran like crap when I first started it after getting the needed hoses replaced. It acted like it had a 3k RPM rev limiter on it. I thought this may have been the "limp home" mode. So I pulled the negative cable and let it sit.

I looked around and there was some anti-freeze around the valve covers. I rinsed everything off with the hose, blew it off with my compressor, and left it. A few hours later I started it and it is better, but not right.

It runs like a paint shaker from time to time. Accelerates slowly and 10 miles later threw a CEL. (I'll be reading this tomorrow when I get Dad's code reader.) Sometimes it seems like all 6 are firing, but only in the upper RPM range. It will sit at a light chugging then spmetimes smooth right out like it's firing all 6 again.

Do you think I've got anti-freeze in a plug well killing a Coil? It's obviously not running on all 6 cylinders.

Suggestions, comments, prior experience?
 
I'm not sure what's involved in replacing the hose, but if coolant got into the plug wells, you should remove the coils, and see if they're wet. Use a wetvac to suck out the liquid and if that doesn't work, cover absolutely everything and blow the plug wells out with compressed air. Then check the plugs to see if it's fouled. Is the car smoking at all or is it just running rough?
 
No smoke that I've detected, just running rough.

I don't think I hurt the engine. I don't think it got hot enough to blow a head gasket or anything. I pulled over and killed it quick. And it still had coolant. It was still registering hot when I shut down so it didn't dump all the coolant.

I'm not sure what's involved in replacing the hose, but if coolant got into the plug wells,
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It wasn't changing the hose that did it. It was the coolant spraying all over the engine compartment under pressure!
 
mharrison said:
No smoke that I've detected, just running rough.

I don't think I hurt the engine. I don't think it got hot enough to blow a head gasket or anything. I pulled over and killed it quick. And it still had coolant. It was still registering hot when I shut down so it didn't dump all the coolant.


It wasn't changing the hose that did it. It was the coolant spraying all over the engine compartment under pressure!
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If you dont want to take it to the dealership, I would pull your engine cover and see if there is a hose underneath there that sprung a leak. Also, check all your other hoses too. If none of those are leaking, I would say that you just blew a head gasket. Post some more information on what you find, and we can go from there. I'm not going to sit here and tell you it is one thing or the other, but these are a few things you can check on yourself without taking it to the dealership.
 
I guess I should have posted this in my first post since going back and reading it, I realize there isn't much info on the overheat.I already changed several hoses. It isn't leaking anymore. The coolant system is now good. Holding pressure, not leaking, and running at the correct temp.

I now have a coil problem (as soon as I fired it up) and think that the coolant may have gotten in the plug wells.
 
Ok. I got an 0306 code which is "Cylinder 6 misfire detected". I am assuming that this coil is bad. (Although I intend to check for moisture in the well).

I also got 0183 and 0181 which from what I've read may be false readings caused by the Coil spiking the ECM. They are both fuel temperature sensor readings. Aren't diesels the only ones with fuel temperature sensors?

Is #6 under the manifold? I'm away from my manual.
 
Well half way home from work she smoothed on out and has been running fine since. I hope that continues! I'm still going to pull at least the drivers side coils and check for oil or water on the boots.
 
Actual temperature I have no idea. Mine runs 1/2 way between H and C. I don't have the computer. (I would imagine that shows an actual temp.)
 
I am wondering if the coils are prone to heat damage.

I was stuck on a freeway, dead stop for 90 minutes on a 100+ degree day last summer. The freeway was closed due to an accident.

Naturally being a good SoCal boy, I stayed in the 2004 LSV8 with the AC full blast and engine running. The temp guage stayed normal and AC was OK and everything seemed normal. Once they opened the freeway I accelerated but it acted like there was a heavy spark miss and the AC would only blow luke warm unless the engine was reving higher than freeway speed.

I limped home and next morning it still ran like heck on my drive to work and AC was still no op. Took it to the dealer and they took care of it but there was no clear note on the work order on what they fixed. They did note worked on the battery, huh?

The car has run almost fine since but there is a stumble at light acceleration which I intend to take in before the warranty is thru. I plan to take a peak down the valve covers to see if oil is causing my slight miss.

So I am guessing that the coils may have overheated while sitting in traffic, even though the water temp stayed within normal. I am guessing the heads got hotter than the water temp indicated due to lack of airflow and that the coils may have cooked. Wish the dealer had been more descriptive on what they fixed.

So maybe your coils cooked when you lost cooling?

Jim Henderson
 
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