Problem..Maybe DCCV???

SlickLS

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Well I think my DCCV went out. It is not blowing different temperature out either side but when I try and change the temperature it just keeps blowing 60 degree air on both sides. It's not a bad thing because I live in the south where it is hot 11 months out of the year. My main question is: Do you think it could be a control panel issue or does this sound like the DCCV? Thanks
 
I'd start with a check for air in the cooling system. This seems more likely than a bad DCCV. (Nine times out of ten they fail in the full heat position, not the no heat position.)
 
+1 on bleeding and inspecting the coolant system. DCCV units on all the cars I've seen (not just LS) fail into the open position causing a full heat scenario.

The heater cores in the LS are the "highest point" in the engine coolant system and lose fluid first when the level drops in the coolant fill tank.

If this is your scenario, I'd advise getting some more coolant in it at once because without the system being full, it doesn't circulate properly.

From my reading in here, it seems the most common reason for LS coolant loss is the fill tank itself becomes cracked and loses fluid under pressure.
 
ok well after your advise to bleed the system I did and still no change. I know my degas bottle is not cracked because I am not leaking coolant anywhere and I just replaced it not too long ago. Does anybody think it could be a control panel issue?
 
ok well after your advise to bleed the system I did and still no change. I know my degas bottle is not cracked because I am not leaking coolant anywhere and I just replaced it not too long ago. Does anybody think it could be a control panel issue?

Okay, unplug the connector at the DCCV. If you then get full heat it is possible that you have a fault with the DATC or one of its sensors. If you don't, then that is somewhat unlikely. Is yours a gen I or a gen II? Gen I's have a bypass door that could be stuck, gen II's don't.
 
In any case, the dccv takes about 1.5 hrs to change out, and that is with plenty of beer to cool you off, in the south!
 
Okay, unplug the connector at the DCCV. If you then get full heat it is possible that you have a fault with the DATC or one of its sensors. If you don't, then that is somewhat unlikely. Is yours a gen I or a gen II? Gen I's have a bypass door that could be stuck, gen II's don't.
I have a gen I and is it hard to get to that bypass door? You live in Gulfport right? I am from the coast but live in Hburg finishing school
 
I have a gen I and is it hard to get to that bypass door? You live in Gulfport right? I am from the coast but live in Hburg finishing school

I don't know how hard the bypass door is to get to, I have a gen II. Yes, Gulfport.

Run the DATC self diagnostic and see if any codes for the bypass door come up. (Sorry, I don't recall how to start the gen I diagnostics. Search for it, it has been covered a few times now.)
 
???? nobody else has any helpful information..i find that funny because I know they have tons of smart people on this forum...help please
 
COLD AIR BYPASS DOOR ACTUATOR
The cold air bypass door actuator is located on the evaporator core housing. During automatic operation the control module can position the door fully open so that none of the airflow will pass through the heater core. This will provide for maximum cooling. The door is closed or partially closed during modes other than maximum cooling.


The cold air bypass door actuator positions the cold air bypass door on command from the DATC module.
Operation of the cold air bypass door actuator is the same as the air inlet door.

Google is king :D Please don't ask where the evaporator core housing is :P
 

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