cdykstra0
New LVC Member
Hello all, this is my first post here, and I come looking for guidance.
I bought this car (2006 LS V8, 75k miles) last November, and really haven't been having the greatest luck. A week after buying it, rear suspension started squeaking badly, no big deal, just shocks. Then on new years, someone lightly backed into it in a driveway. Just hard enough to crack the paint on the front bumper and warp the bumper cover. Again, not a huge deal. After that, I confirmed a very slow coolant leak at the thermostat housing. Fairly certain it's been leaking since I bought it. So I bought a new one (hadn't installed it yet) and made plans to replace that and a few other cooling components while I was at it, same as the last LS I owned. Well, fast forward to a few weeks ago and the real trouble started.
I noticed my DCCV valve went out. Then I started getting errors for my parking brake. I know there sometimes related so wasn't too concerned. Bought a DCCV and the night before I was going to replace it, it seems everything else wanted to die. Out of nowhere, I got in the car and was welcomed by dashes in my odometer, the speedometer nor the steering boost was operating, as well as a plethora of warnings on my dash: check transmission, no fuel data, service park brake was constant, abs and brake lights on, trac button light and parking brake light continuously lit. Limped it home, and assumed it was just a speed sensor tripping up the abs module. Car still ran fine. Grabbed my scanner and was met with a dozen codes, as follows:
Electronic Park Brake Module:
-C1094 - Parking Brake Switch Circuit
-C1782 - Parking Brake Release Switch Circuit
-C1987 - Yellow Fault Lamp Short to Battery +
-U1040 - Loss of Electronic Brake Control / Electronic Brake Traction Control
-U1039 - SCP Data Fault For VSS High Res
-U1058 - Refer to OEM Repair Information
Anti-theft Module:
-U1041 - SCP Data Fault for Vehicle Speed
-1262 - SPC Data Fault for J1850 Bus
Driver Door Module:
-B2324 - Driver Mirror Vertical Feedback Potentiometer Circuit Fault
-B1309 - Power Door Lock Short to Ground
-B1341 - Power Door Unlock Short to Ground
DATC Module:
-B2798 - Driver Water Valve Circuit Short
-B2799 - Passenger Water Valve Circuit Open
Front Electronic Module:
-B1794 - Low Beam Headlamp Circuit Fault
-B1567 - High Beam Circuit Fault
-B2316 - Passenger Mirror Vertical Feedback Potentiometer Circuit
HEC Module:
-U1041 - SCP Data Fault for Vehicle Speed
-SCP Data Fault for J1850
Message Center Module:
-U1262 - SCP Data Fault for J1850 Bus
Seat Climate Module:
-B2486 - Left Side Repeater Lamp Output Circuit
I had already confirmed the DCCV to be faulty, and I'm ignoring the driver mirror code as that doesn't operate (Passenger works fine) and the headlamp codes as I have LED headlights. I assume the leds are tripping up the system checks. I could be wrong and have not verified, just as assumption.
I was not able to access the ABS Module at all with my scanner; it acted as if the car was not even powered up, so based off that and the codes, my logic says start there. I followed Pinpoint Procedure for no communication, and found 0 volts at the abs connector, wire 30-CF13. Traced it to the other end, fuse 22 in the underhood fuse box and found the 40 amp fuse blown. Against better judgement, I put a new fuse in and walked over to the driver door to see if anything had been resolved on the dash, and I even had the thought "I should find the cause before just replacing it. It blew for a reason" but I did not make it to the driver door before a could of smoke billowed out from the engine compartment. The ABS module and the connector are now completely fried, so that leaves me with some new questions hopefully someone here can answer.
1. I have the physical ability to replace the abs module, however, can I truly do it myself or will it still have to go to the dealer to be programed / flashed / configured. I've been seeing a varying opinion on this one.
2. As far as replacing the connector, does anyone know if there is a connector down stream somewhere or if I will be cutting and soldering each wire. I'll have this answer in the next few days when I get time to take it apart, but if someone knows, I'd love to know as well beforehand.
3. Does anyone have any other theories as to what the initial problem was? Last thing I want to do is replace everything I burned, only to have it happen again because I was looking in the wrong direction and assumed it was fixed. I'm not entirely sure where to source a new connector from, but I would prefer to reconnect everything as far away from the connector as possible to reduce the risk of burned wires down the line.
4. Does anyone have any new insults I might not have heard? Feeling like I deserve a few for this example of lack of brainpower.
Thanks All!
I bought this car (2006 LS V8, 75k miles) last November, and really haven't been having the greatest luck. A week after buying it, rear suspension started squeaking badly, no big deal, just shocks. Then on new years, someone lightly backed into it in a driveway. Just hard enough to crack the paint on the front bumper and warp the bumper cover. Again, not a huge deal. After that, I confirmed a very slow coolant leak at the thermostat housing. Fairly certain it's been leaking since I bought it. So I bought a new one (hadn't installed it yet) and made plans to replace that and a few other cooling components while I was at it, same as the last LS I owned. Well, fast forward to a few weeks ago and the real trouble started.
I noticed my DCCV valve went out. Then I started getting errors for my parking brake. I know there sometimes related so wasn't too concerned. Bought a DCCV and the night before I was going to replace it, it seems everything else wanted to die. Out of nowhere, I got in the car and was welcomed by dashes in my odometer, the speedometer nor the steering boost was operating, as well as a plethora of warnings on my dash: check transmission, no fuel data, service park brake was constant, abs and brake lights on, trac button light and parking brake light continuously lit. Limped it home, and assumed it was just a speed sensor tripping up the abs module. Car still ran fine. Grabbed my scanner and was met with a dozen codes, as follows:
Electronic Park Brake Module:
-C1094 - Parking Brake Switch Circuit
-C1782 - Parking Brake Release Switch Circuit
-C1987 - Yellow Fault Lamp Short to Battery +
-U1040 - Loss of Electronic Brake Control / Electronic Brake Traction Control
-U1039 - SCP Data Fault For VSS High Res
-U1058 - Refer to OEM Repair Information
Anti-theft Module:
-U1041 - SCP Data Fault for Vehicle Speed
-1262 - SPC Data Fault for J1850 Bus
Driver Door Module:
-B2324 - Driver Mirror Vertical Feedback Potentiometer Circuit Fault
-B1309 - Power Door Lock Short to Ground
-B1341 - Power Door Unlock Short to Ground
DATC Module:
-B2798 - Driver Water Valve Circuit Short
-B2799 - Passenger Water Valve Circuit Open
Front Electronic Module:
-B1794 - Low Beam Headlamp Circuit Fault
-B1567 - High Beam Circuit Fault
-B2316 - Passenger Mirror Vertical Feedback Potentiometer Circuit
HEC Module:
-U1041 - SCP Data Fault for Vehicle Speed
-SCP Data Fault for J1850
Message Center Module:
-U1262 - SCP Data Fault for J1850 Bus
Seat Climate Module:
-B2486 - Left Side Repeater Lamp Output Circuit
I had already confirmed the DCCV to be faulty, and I'm ignoring the driver mirror code as that doesn't operate (Passenger works fine) and the headlamp codes as I have LED headlights. I assume the leds are tripping up the system checks. I could be wrong and have not verified, just as assumption.
I was not able to access the ABS Module at all with my scanner; it acted as if the car was not even powered up, so based off that and the codes, my logic says start there. I followed Pinpoint Procedure for no communication, and found 0 volts at the abs connector, wire 30-CF13. Traced it to the other end, fuse 22 in the underhood fuse box and found the 40 amp fuse blown. Against better judgement, I put a new fuse in and walked over to the driver door to see if anything had been resolved on the dash, and I even had the thought "I should find the cause before just replacing it. It blew for a reason" but I did not make it to the driver door before a could of smoke billowed out from the engine compartment. The ABS module and the connector are now completely fried, so that leaves me with some new questions hopefully someone here can answer.
1. I have the physical ability to replace the abs module, however, can I truly do it myself or will it still have to go to the dealer to be programed / flashed / configured. I've been seeing a varying opinion on this one.
2. As far as replacing the connector, does anyone know if there is a connector down stream somewhere or if I will be cutting and soldering each wire. I'll have this answer in the next few days when I get time to take it apart, but if someone knows, I'd love to know as well beforehand.
3. Does anyone have any other theories as to what the initial problem was? Last thing I want to do is replace everything I burned, only to have it happen again because I was looking in the wrong direction and assumed it was fixed. I'm not entirely sure where to source a new connector from, but I would prefer to reconnect everything as far away from the connector as possible to reduce the risk of burned wires down the line.
4. Does anyone have any new insults I might not have heard? Feeling like I deserve a few for this example of lack of brainpower.
Thanks All!
