New system on the way

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jmtiseo

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Welp, only a few days into the holiday season and I finally decided to be a wee bit selfish and took the $800 plunge into a new sound system. This is after pondering about just keeping the stock rear deck subs. I recently upgraded my door speakers to the Infinity Reference 6x8's.

On the way is a new Image Dynamic IDMAX 12" Sub and a Kicker ZX1000.1 Amp. Only hard part is building a ported box that will hopefully give me access to the spare tire, or at the very least a majority of my trunk space back. I'm looking right around the 2-2.25 cu. ft. range. Won't be getting to building the box until Christmas break but I will have pictures of the finished product. Anything I should be concerned with? Is a big 3 upgrade a must? After a little research it is not as much as I thought it was, originally I thought it was H/O alternator, battery, and wiring.

Taking the ol' gal in this week to finally get the solenoid body replaced.
 
Did you buy the sub and amp already??

You could get a better system for less monies if you let me throw some suggestions your way.
 
Do it to it sir. I'm open to suggestions, can always send back. Just got sick of waiting and pondering and finally pulled the proverbial trigger on it.

I've heard this in my brothers truck and I liked it a whole lot more than what I have at the moment.

Unless of course you were talking about a better system for less monies in terms of the solenoid body, but I think I'm pretty much shafted when it comes to replacing that.
 
I'm going through some youtube vids, can only take so much out of those being a camera can't pick up what the human ear can. I see you have one, or one similar. How's the sound quality, reliability, etc.?
 
They sound very good and hit very damn hard.

Not a sound quality sub but you can make up for that with good midrange.
 
From Youtube vids it looks like it can thump pretty good. Looking for something with some good sound to it. I know a lot of that depends on the box build and others but the way his is set up in his rig it sounds pretty darn good. I appreciate the suggestion. I probably did overpay for these but I've been tossing around between different brands, places to get them, used, new, refurbed that I finally said this is it and clicked the submit order button.
 
IMO, the "big 3" isn't a big deal on the LS. The primary battery cabling is already really stout. Many cars just use 8 ga, sometimes 4 ga for the main starter power and engine grounds, and something silly for the alternator, like 10 or 12ga.
The LS has 2ga from the trunk to the starter, uses a proper firewall bolt, and 4ga for the two feet from the starter to the alternator. The grounds are 4ga and less than two feet from connection to body. There's not much to improve there unless you will, no kidding, pull over 100amps continuous from the alternator to the trunk (Assuming amp is in the trunk).
On a typical car with wimpy wires everywhere and the battery at the front, reworking with some better cables makes sense. And if you're doing a very very serious system over 1Kw (and will *actually* use that much power on more than just occasional spikes) then you should know what you're doing.
Make sure the wiring in the trunk is properly sized and your alternator is healthy and be done with it.


1loud had an opposing viewpoint, but I think his example was a 1.5kw system. How anyone can run that continuous w/o two alternators is a mystery to me. And haven't seen anyone talk about dual alternator setups for the AJV8 yet either.
 
Thanks for the input. I wasn't too concerned with it but it was just a thought. I've only found a couple people on here who posted about doing the upgrade.

The amp will be in the trunk, using 0ga wire and a circuit breaker. Currently have 100amp breaker on my current system but I assume I'll be needing a 150amp breaker for it. Read mixed opinions on using these over traditional inline fuses but I have yet to have a problem with mine, guess I wouldn't know until something actually went wrong with the system.

Another question, probably going to catch some heat as it may not be good practice. What do I use for the remote wire? currently it is wired to the fuel pump relay in the trunk. I don't have an aftermarket HU, been using line out converter and it has served me well. Only problem is that if I turn off my HU my system sounds like it's going to blow up? Why? Just trying to do this right way without an aftermarket hu.

I had a 200amp alternator on my truck with just a rebuild. I don't think these alternators can be beefed up that much. Aren't they like 90 or 130amp from the factory?
 
I just use a regular inline fuse for mine with 2 gauge wiring and the voltage doesn't drop much at all.

Do you have the thx? I also use a loc with mine and they have a rem lead built into them.
 
oddball said:
IMO, the "big 3" isn't a big deal on the LS. The primary battery cabling is already really stout. Many cars just use 8 ga, sometimes 4 ga for the main starter power and engine grounds, and something silly for the alternator, like 10 or 12ga.
The LS has 2ga from the trunk to the starter, uses a proper firewall bolt, and 4ga for the two feet from the starter to the alternator. The grounds are 4ga and less than two feet from connection to body. There's not much to improve there unless you will, no kidding, pull over 100amps continuous from the alternator to the trunk (Assuming amp is in the trunk).
On a typical car with wimpy wires everywhere and the battery at the front, reworking with some better cables makes sense. And if you're doing a very very serious system over 1Kw (and will *actually* use that much power on more than just occasional spikes) then you should know what you're doing.
Make sure the wiring in the trunk is properly sized and your alternator is healthy and be done with it.




1loud had an opposing viewpoint, but I think his example was a 1.5kw system. How anyone can run that continuous w/o two alternators is a mystery to me. And haven't seen anyone talk about dual alternator setups for the AJV8 yet either.
Click to expand...

Im not familiar with what stock gauge the LS uses butwhat I say is from experience.I used to run 2 Type r's, at about 1k watts and my electrical was not liking it. I had diming headlights, dash lights and I'm sure it was taking a toll on the alt. In my opinion, if going over 1k, upgrading electrical is something to have in mind. Now I'm running an aq2200 with kinetic batt and big three and I can really turn up the vlume. Even with thesse mods the voltage at my amp can go as low as 13.6 when I get carried away.

I would install without upgraded electrical and then using a voltmeter, decide if an upgrade is needed. In my case it was. Ill post up the big three on my build thread tomorrow.

Edit: To be fair, the amp i was using was very cheap (interfire). I dont know if that has anything to do with my initial voltage problems.
 
Ok, because as of right now I have a 100amp circuit breaker. I'm thinking to bump it up to 150 or 200 amp but not sure what's too much or not enough. I've never checked the voltage on mine. I do know the high beams, fogs, and interior lights dim if it's really thumping. I have everything except the nav. screen. Right now the loc is wired into the rear deck subs. I'll have to see if it has the option for a remote wire.

I assume the more efficient an amp runs the less voltage drop you'll experience when it really hits. Just my assumption but I'm not too sure. I'll see what happens. If it gets too bad I'll just have to hold off and see what I can do in terms of an alternator. Not really worried about it like I said.
 
I like BlackLS06's suggestions. Although if it were me, I'd go DC Audio level 4 xl 12" sub, and a used AQ2200. That should be around or under 700. I have a DClvl4 12 with a Directed 2400D, and it suits my needs. For now. Also, don't know what you use for sound deadener, but Second Skin Damplifier Pro is what I have, and it rocks. WAY thicker/heavier than dynamat extreme. And cheaper too.
 
I am set on running this set up. I may look into more sound deadener. Currently only have the sound deadener on the trunk lid and the back of my license plate. It helped but of course there is more where it can be applied to help big time.
 
jmtiseo said:
I am set on running this set up. I may look into more sound deadener. Currently only have the sound deadener on the trunk lid and the back of my license plate. It helped but of course there is more where it can be applied to help big time.
Click to expand...

Yeah my rattling is bad. Especially my rear "dash" where my stock subs are and my bumper, where it meets the rear wheels on both sides. Ill let u know the two fuses I used ltr today. I believe. They are 150.
 
The rear deck on mine rattles like a sumbish too. I have a sheet of Second Skin Overkill foam that i'm going to use to help get rid of that though.

You still have your stock subs in place?
 
I was thinking something les expensive like shoving tan fabric between the window and rear deck as that is where I believe most of the rattling comes from : )
 
I just threw it in with the bulk pack of Damp. Pro. 15 bucks. And agreed on where the rattling is coming from. I can go back there, push down in the corners where it meets the glass, and it goes away.
 
jmtiseo said:
Only problem is that if I turn off my HU my system sounds like it's going to blow up? Why? Just trying to do this right way without an aftermarket hu.

I had a 200amp alternator on my truck with just a rebuild. I don't think these alternators can be beefed up that much. Aren't they like 90 or 130amp from the factory?
Click to expand...

I haven't messed with aftermarket amps much, but the head unit is probably killing the outputs poorly, which your amp happily amplifies. Not sure what all can be done, although there may be some line converters that provide the signal line which might help. Try getting ahold of 1loudLS.

DB Electrical and Motor City Reman (or something like that) make Gen 1 HO alternators. I've returned two DB Electrical ones for low output at idle. Ours is the 6G small case which isn't nearly as friendly as the 6G large case, and has unique case mounts and probably a unique PCM control, so there's no swap with anything else, so very little interest from the manufacturers.
 
oddball said:
1loud had an opposing viewpoint, but I think his example was a 1.5kw system. How anyone can run that continuous w/o two alternators is a mystery to me. And haven't seen anyone talk about dual alternator setups for the AJV8 yet either.
Click to expand...

I beleive that two alternators is not the answer to anyones problems. If anything an HO with some extra batts.

Check out this monstrosity!! I dont know of any new upgrades, but when he started he was using one HO alt.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/bo...s-build-4-xl15s-8kw-update-new-suspension-in/
 
I conquer on the rattling everyone is experiencing. The bloody thing is only held in at the front by clips and the seat back. The rear part towards the window is allowed to just float in the breeze. Also agreeing with the bumper right behind the rear wheels, possibly a vent there? Again, my truck rattled and it turned out the vent was flapping open and close from the subs hitting.

I didn't think there were many choices to alternators beyond the realm of OEM.

I'll consider that an expensive, extremely heavy, terrible handling set of Eibachs. Probably a little bit of a terd of a car with the added weight but he was going for boom not vroom.
 
OBI trashed his car tho...its kinda ugly how he has everything.
 
BlackLS06 said:
OBI trashed his car tho...its kinda ugly how he has everything.
Click to expand...

Definitely not Lincolnesque. Hope he held onto that one, assuming you would with that much work and moolah into it, it would be a doozy to try and sell.
 
A system like that would be better in a suv.

I mean it gets to a point to where you can only hit so much db anyways. Done correctly a 2kw system can hit the same numbers as a 5k system. Those guys on and get a hard on with the more stuff you can jam into a vehicle.

And I'm not hating either... I could do the same but it's just too much.
 
BlackLS06 said:
A system like that would be better in a suv.

I mean it gets to a point to where you can only hit so much db anyways. Done correctly a 2kw system can hit the same numbers as a 5k system. Those guys on and get a hard on with the more stuff you can jam into a vehicle.

And I'm not hating either... I could do the same but it's just too much.
Click to expand...

Hater! :D
 
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