New LS Owner with a Bevy of Repairs

M

mdneilson

LVC Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2013
Messages
47
Reaction score
1
Location
United States
So, I got a 2001 LS from my mother after she decided to get a different vehicle. My father, who passed away over 6 years ago, kept very good care of the car. I'm not sure of how well taken care of it was afterward, but signs point to minimal upkeep. Shortly after he passed, she started filling with 87 octane fuel, and did for the last 5-6 years. I have a laundry list of things to repair, mostly minor and cosmetic things. But there are three major concerns that I was hoping y'all could help me out with.

One, the car wanders (or drifts) while driving, mostly at higher 40+ speeds. Her mechanic said she needed new ball joints, so I was expecting that. After getting the car off the ground, I pulled on the wheels without any give, except for possibly the bottom of the driver's side (so, possibly lower ball joint). I expected much more play in the joint (and may be imagining the tiny bit that exists). The tie rod end is visibly bad (see attached pics of tie and joint). Is it likely to just be the tie rod, or should I go through the pain of both replacements?

Two, the car has a large engine coolant leak. A half-gallon to gallon must be replaced every day (clearly, it is currently parked). I cannot see the source after light inspection, and neither could my mother's mechanic. It seems to be coming from the rear area of the engine. Is there a likely common culprit there that I should seek out?

Three, the engine is throwing a number of frightening codes (P0171: System too Lean (Bank 1), P0174: System too Lean (Bank 2), P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected, P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected). I left out an overheating code that is likely from the coolant leak. Any ideas on these? Could they be related to running on 87 petrol for the last 5+ years?

I don't have a ton of money to throw in a car, but I like this one, and it is a lot better than my 220k+ mile Neon (belch). Is it worth trying to repair it or should I just get rid of it? I also drive A LOT for work (500+ miles per week).

Thanks in advance! I ran across this community from who-knows-where and you guys really seem like an awesome bunch.

Close-up of ball joint (pics really don't help from what I understand, but figured I'd put one up anyway)
2013-07-27 18.05.28.jpg

Tie rod end close up
2013-07-27 18.03.51.jpg

Tie rod end overall
2013-07-27 18.05.57.jpg

2013-07-27 18.05.57.jpg


2013-07-27 18.05.28.jpg


2013-07-27 18.03.51.jpg
 
Search, all of your questions have been covered several times on this forum.
Also, while your are at it, check your rear toe-links for the wandering problem.
 
1.your leak is the degas bottle (overflow tank) replace it with a OEM from the dealer don't get aftermarket.
2.you need to replace the coils and spark plugs. we recommend doing them all at the same time and while your at it check for leaking valve covers. don't get the ebay ones most of them fail fast, so you have 2 options OEM (BEST ONES) or the bwd (advance autoports) ones. the only reason I say to get the BWD ones if your not getting the OEM is that they give you a 3 year warranty so if they fail just replace them for free.
3. the ball joints it all depends if you mechanic can press them then get these from ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-S-Ty...:Lincoln|Model:LS&hash=item3f17df48aa&vxp=mtr

if he cant press them then you need to get the full assembly that comes with the control arm.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LINCOLN-LS-...:Lincoln|Model:LS&hash=item5d2d1a0d10&vxp=mtr
 
You can get the Visteon coils on ebay. They were a Motorcraft supplier and many of us have had good luck with them. Your codes will probably go away after that.
 
BigRigLS said:
Ahhh, No!

Maybe for the V6 but you'll not find Visteon coils for the 8 on eBay.
Click to expand...

It is the 6. My father wanted the 8, but for whatever reason decided not to. I wish he had, looking at the work needed to get at the coils and plugs in the 6.
 
mdneilson said:
Why not aftermarket?
Click to expand...

The aftermarket bottles are Dorman bottles, and are not made well. Some members here have had failures right out of the box, others have had them crack again within 6 months and had to do the job again. OEM should last as long as the first one did.
 
mdneilson said:
It is the 6. My father wanted the 8, but for whatever reason decided not to. I wish he had, looking at the work needed to get at the coils and plugs in the 6.
Click to expand...

Even with the V6 you'll be hard pressed to find Visteon coils for it on eBay as well, Visteon stopped making coils for the LS and it's inventories have been depleted. OEM Motorcraft coils is the best option. Any aftermarket coil out there for the LS is going to be a gamble.



Telco said:
The aftermarket bottles are Dorman bottles, and are not made well. Some members here have had failures right out of the box, others have had them crack again within 6 months and had to do the job again. OEM should last as long as the first one did.
Click to expand...

The threads for the pressure cap are of a weak design. (at least that's what I read, never own a Dorman myself)
 
Thanks for all the info guys. I really appreciate it! Is anyone interested in status updates and/or pictures?

(BigRig, I love your signature, hilarious)
 
Wow. That is A LOT of oil!

uploadfromtaptalk1375510457595.jpg

A coolant hose was rotted through, and popped right off while working on the intake manifold.

uploadfromtaptalk1375510593699.jpg

Looks like I have another thing to add to my salvage yard list.

uploadfromtaptalk1375510457595.jpg


uploadfromtaptalk1375510593699.jpg
 
Ohh yeah, almost all the plastic cooling system components are probably going to go. It's another common thing on LS'. If you have the cash to do them now might save yourself the head-ache later. If not I would plan on it. Is there a hose that runs under the manifold like on the V8 that needs to be replaced on the V6? If so I would say go ahead and replace that while you got the manifold off.

The good news is that once you address the cooling system and coils the car seems to run well. Only other question is the transmission solenoid pack and the crappy fluid Ford used in them. If the transmission is still working good then I would do a flush and fill with new fluid. But if it's a 2001 and it's still working good maybe this has already been done. Maybe just wait and see.
 
I would not salvage yard the cooling system parts. If they are there, I'd suspect 80% of their life is gone already.

Personally if I was going to put 26k a year on a car I would not do it to an LS and especially not on a 13 year old '01 that was neglected for the last 6 years. What's your plan B for while you are fixing this one monthly?
 
Ranchero50 said:
I would not salvage yard the cooling system parts. If they are there, I'd suspect 80% of their life is gone already.

Personally if I was going to put 26k a year on a car I would not do it to an LS and especially not on a 13 year old '01 that was neglected for the last 6 years. What's your plan B for while you are fixing this one monthly?
Click to expand...

A fair point on the salvage parts. I wish I had the dough for a new car, or something newer, but I have to make due with what I've got.
 
mdneilson said:
Just got around to the clock spring, and no dice. I'm going to test the old one with a multimeter to be sure.
Click to expand...

Checked the new one, and it was bad too. Damn.

On another note, I replaced the plus and coils, but now it ruins really rough at idle and sometimes stalls. The MAF looks clean. Ideas?
 
mdneilson said:
Checked the new one, and it was bad too. Damn.

On another note, I replaced the plus and coils, but now it ruins really rough at idle and sometimes stalls. The MAF looks clean. Ideas?
Click to expand...

What coils did you use? Which plugs? Did you verify that each plug was at a 1mm gap?

Clocksprings are easy to break if you don't follow procedure...
 
joegr said:
What coils did you use? Which plugs? Did you verify that each plug was at a 1mm gap?
Click to expand...

Was thinking the same, I wanna say from your prior posts you most likely did not go OEM, which lead me to this conclusion. Specifically, post #13
 
I bought import direct coils. The Motorcraft 50% markup was out of my range. The plugs were gapped correctly.

Seems that the IAC can be a problem... what do you think?
 
joegr said:
Clocksprings are easy to break if you don't follow procedure...
Click to expand...
Sorry, "new" one. It was a salvage pull, so the odds weren't great for me. It isn't too hard of a job to have to do twice, so I took the chance.

I checked the cool wiring and seating three times to be sure. Wouldn't a misfire throw code anyway?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 831 (members: 0, guests: 831)
Back
Top