need a hand finding electrical problem

bryantaylor

bryantaylor

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late last week i was sitting in traffic and the radio turned off, a/c turn off next, then abs light came on. after about a second, it was normal again. then a minute later, same thing, same order. after that, the ABS light fluttered for about 30 seconds, then everything was normal again.

the next day, battery was dead. jumped it, drove it around for 15 minutes or so, turned it off. started it about an hour later and it started fine. next day, battery was dead again.

took the battery and alt to carquest and they both tested good. battery is almost a year old and the alt was replaced before i bought the car, i would say its about 2 years old or so.

the only thing i have done was the torque converter a couple of weeks ago, but i have drove it several times with no problems after. any ideas on where i should be looking?
 
the alt is good, just had it tested an hour ago.

but i did find something. unhooked the neg cable, ran a test light from the cable to the terminal. i started unplugging fuses and when i pulled the fuse in the engine bay that controls fuses 6 and 11 on the inside fuse panel, the light would pulse on and off. those inside fuses control the brake and blinker lights.

edit: did some more testing. with 19 unpluged in the engine bay, the test lamp would pulse. bow when i take out 6 and 11 inside the car, which 19 in the engine controls, the light still pulses. But... if i leave 19 unplugged in the engine bay and take out 16 inside, the light goes out. but if i plug either one back in, the lamp starts to pulse again. 16 inside controls things like the air bag, radio, temp control, cluster, and so on. i just don't understand why you need to unplug fuses for 2 seprate systems to get rid of the draw.
 
bryantaylor said:
the alt is good, just had it tested an hour ago.

but i did find something. unhooked the neg cable, ran a test light from the cable to the terminal. i started unplugging fuses and when i pulled the fuse in the engine bay that controls fuses 6 and 11 on the inside fuse panel, the light would pulse on and off. those inside fuses control the brake and blinker lights.

edit: did some more testing. with 19 unpluged in the engine bay, the test lamp would pulse. bow when i take out 6 and 11 inside the car, which 19 in the engine controls, the light still pulses. But... if i leave 19 unplugged in the engine bay and take out 16 inside, the light goes out. but if i plug either one back in, the lamp starts to pulse again. 16 inside controls things like the air bag, radio, temp control, cluster, and so on. i just don't understand why you need to unplug fuses for 2 seprate systems to get rid of the draw.
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i had the same symptoms and when i replaced the alt it when away. ive never used car quest services. if i were you i would grab a volt meter and test it your self. you should be right around 13.5ish however even with that you could have a diode thats going bad. i would take it to autozone and advanced have them test it as well... your method of testing with the light and pulling fuses and crap like that is for finding a parasistic drain. if your car is running the drain doesnt matter because the alt is replacing it. if your electrical craps out while the car is running. it has to do with your charging system. of course carquest could be right the alt may be fine. however it doesnt hurt to get a second opinion
 
When my alternator went abs light came on and the message center said check system. Check it with the voltmeter
 
My mom is having the exact same problem as original poster. We've changed batteries and have been through a couple alternators. We still get the "check charging system" warning on the display. I have heard of wires in the alternator harness melting together but I have not been able to check that yet. My mom's car has been sitting for over a year. I hope somebody can help.

Good luck to original poster, please let me know If you figure out the problem.
 
Alternator for sure, I dont care what the oreilys tester says replace it and it will fix youre issue. Mine did this for 2 months while it tested just fine til it shot craps on me then I believed the hub bub, as I sat on the side of the road. You have 50 people telling you the answer. Take the advise or enjoy walking.:rolleyes: And how do you know there is a draw and what do you mean by that? When the ign is on yeah there is a draw. If its off there isnt.


ALTERNATOR BATTERY CHANGE THEM!
 
bryantaylor said:
i do not get the check charging system message. the alt passed on the test machine. there is a draw!
Click to expand...

I get all my alternators rebuilt at a local place in town.
He has never failed me....until he did my mark alternator.
He said it was good...It wasen't.

The Batt. light wont always go on.
Mine did all sorts of weird crap and died, left me stranded with my "rebuilt" Alt. that checked out "fine".

Do you know were the alternator came from....if its not from Max or P.A I wouldnt trust it as far as I could throw it.
 
well with the alt completely unhooked, there is a draw. it charges fine. makes 14 volts at idle. i don't have a charging problem, i have a draining problem. i can drive the car, shut it off and an hour later start it again with no problem, but if it sits overnight it goes dead.

1bad4.6l said:
And how do you know there is a draw and what do you mean by that? When the ign is on yeah there is a draw. If its off there isnt.
Click to expand...

with the key out, everything off, and have the neg cable unpluged. if you run a test light from the cable to the terminal, you have a draw.
 
yes but how big you have things like radio memory air comp and others to name a few.
 
bryantaylor said:
i do not get the check charging system message. the alt passed on the test machine. there is a draw!
Click to expand...

The voltage has to drop to less than 11.50 volts before the "check charging system" error comes on.
And if it's "above" 12.0 volts it's deemed "good".

So depending on the message center is useless unless you change those values in the tune file to reflect "more reasonable levels".

ALSO.. just because you have 14 V at the alt, doesnt mean it's making back to the important places, like the battery.

If you have the oem type cable ends still on the car that would be the FIRST place I'd check.. replace them with GOOD battery cable ends.
 
bryantaylor said:
with the key out, everything off, .
Click to expand...

there are quite a few electrical system in this car that do not depend on the "key being on".

Keeping in mind that most cars have approx 30 miles of wire, whereas the mark 8 has NINETY SIX miles of wire
The chances of having a wiring problem are about 3 times greater than a regular car.
ALSO, since there is three times the amount of wire, there is ALOT more background systems that may pull a "draw" on the system when the car is off.

I say Battery first, then alternator...you dont have to believe me.

My car, when the alternator died.. did the exact thing you describe.
the car started doing all kinds of goofy crap...then crapped all together.

Now, your car might have an intermittant issue with the alternator.
it doesnt have to be "clear cut" night/day/black/white.

P.S. The Oreilly tester said my second gen alternator was BAD, when it was really the battery...replaced the battery and the alternator has been running like a champ ever since.

I would chunk a battery at it.. regardless of what the people that "warranty" the battery say.
 
XLRVIII said:
ALSO.. just because you have 14 V at the alt, doesnt mean it's making back to the important places, like the battery.
Click to expand...

i was actually checking the voltage at the battery while the car was running.

i need to buy an amp meter to see exactly how many amps the draw is. because isn't a 10-20 amp draw fairly normal? and i don't even think it takes 10 amps to power that test light.
 
probably 2 amps to make the light burn..

your test may or may not have been conclusive.

if your getting 14 v at the battery, consider that 12+ should be present with or without the alternator.
You've only verified that your alternator is putting out atleast 2v

Chasing electrical gremlins is a bummer..
 
The OEM alternator is much more "trustable" than a "year old battery".

Since the battery is about HALF the cost of an alternator I'd start there.
ALSO the aftermarket alternators aren't as good as the OEM you have on there.
your losing 10AMPS just from the swap.

I'd stick with the OEM alternator until it's proven to be bad...
 
XLRVIII said:
The OEM alternator is much more "trustable" than a "year old battery".

Since the battery is about HALF the cost of an alternator I'd start there.
ALSO the aftermarket alternators aren't as good as the OEM you have on there.
your losing 10AMPS just from the swap.

I'd stick with the OEM alternator until it's proven to be bad...
Click to expand...

the alt was replaced before i bought the car. i have no idea what brand it is, just has a sticker on it that says remanufactured.
 
alternator Battery life Will Be Good Again

You Buyem Books And Buyem Books And All They Do Is Eat The Pages.
 
XLRVIII said:
if your getting 14 v at the battery, consider that 12+ should be present with or without the alternator.
You've only verified that your alternator is putting out atleast 2v
Click to expand...

tested it again. the terminal on the alt is making 14.5 volts. the voltage at the battery while running is 14.3 volts at idle. so there is a small drop from the cables themselves.

i also left the battery unhooked last night, it has been about 24hours since it was charged and it just started up nice and quick, so the battery itself is holding a charge fine.

i guesse i will start to shop around for an alt, time to call ford.
 
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