My Eldo's Draining Battery

JAMESINELDO

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I Have Just Purchased A 1992 Eldo, Car Is Immacualate, Garaged And Only 59 K Miles, Bought From Older Women In Florida, She Had Two, Car Almost Looks New, One Problem, It All Started After I Took Car On 11hour Drive, My Alternator Statrted Making Loud Whinning Noise, No Electronic Problems Though, I Got Sick Of Noise And Replaced Alternator. Bought Two Cheapy Alternators From Auto Zone, They Sucked And Wouldnt Even Work. Laid Out 260 Too Napa For A Reman. Delco, Same Problem, Battery Draining, Took Too Mechanic, Said Alternator Was Workin Still, So He Replaced It With A Bosch, 270 Bucks, Now Hes Saying That Alternator Is Running Super Hot And Loud, But Is Working, Someone Help Me, This Is The First Car I Bought With Own Money, All I Want Is My Baby Back To How She Was....any Suggestions, All Elec In Car Works Except Onboard Diagnostic Scrren Doesnt Come On Or My Warning Lights Dont Light Up When Somethings Wrong, Like Battery And Alternator Issue Im Trying To Solve, Anyone Know On A 1992 Eldog With 4.9 Liter.
 
If the alternator is running hot and loud, it sounds like there's a hell of a load on it. Check for a bad battery first, then check for any component that might be causing the load. You can isolate the systems via pulling fuses but, any competent mechanic "should" be able to find such a large load/draw fairly easily.
 
If you have a voltmeter you can take the terminal off of the battery, and place the voltmeter inline set on the current setting (Amps) and with the car off, there should be little to no draw on the battery. If there is simply start pulling fuses to see what is drawing the current.....hope that helps!
 
1wykdmk8 said:
If you have a voltmeter you can take the terminal off of the battery, and place the voltmeter inline set on the current setting (Amps) and with the car off, there should be little to no draw on the battery. If there is simply start pulling fuses to see what is drawing the current.....hope that helps!

You could be lucky to find it that way but newer cars can have parasitic draws that will not show up if you try to check it that way. The reason is that once you disconnect the battery, you pull power from many items that will NOT be powered back up when you simply place the meter across the battery circuit. For that to happen, you'll need to turn the ignition on and start the car. And to do THAT with the meter installed inline, you better have one SERIOUS meter. Most only handle about a 10amp load. There's a "special" tool for doing it right. It looks like a batter disconnect switch like is used on boats but has another circuit built into it for a meter. This way you install the special tool inline with the battery and hook the meter up to IT. Then run the car, shut it off, and crank the disconnect switch open. This automatically changes the circuit over to the meter without interrupting the circuit. This way you maintain whatever load is on the circuit for testing purposes. Many auto parts shops sell the switch and so does any Snap-on or Mac Tools salesmen (the tool trucks that come around to shops).
 
when in doubt check your grounds to make sure there are good connections. if needed clean em up with a stiff wire brush, disco the battery first of course. also you may want to invest in a Chiltons or Haynes manual, they usually have quite a wealth of knowledge in the repairs department
 

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