Mark VII Convertable in FL

chagan said:
Thanks OldSchool, I'll be getting the car this weekend and will post some before pics.
You're welcome.
chagan said:
2 other quick questions for you, do you have the same problem with your headlights as other Ford/Lincoln/Mercury cars of that era- do the lenses cloud up? I have that problem on my '93 Cougar XR7 which have plastic lenses. I don't know if the VII's lenses are glass or not.
Yes. See my tech article at: http://www.lscclub.org/tech/headLightLens.htm
chagan said:
Also, who made the driving lights, one of mine is out (had it looked at the last time I had the car, and it is a wiring or switch problem) I will be getting both of them replaced and want to know your recommendations. Thanks!
K.I.S.S.
Keep It Simple Stupid
Test both bulbs for continuity. If you don't know how, ask somebody with a multimeter. It's free. If a bulb tests bad, replace both bulbs with the cheapest ones you can find. Hopefully that will be your only problem. If not and the bulbs blow up then you're only out $5.00 as apposed to the $30.00 blue-star-blind-your-neighbors-make-your-car-look-Japanese ones.

Anything past that, you'll have to ask a real mechanic. I'm just some eccentric guy on the internet.
 
Easy Off

In reply to your response OS:

OldSchool1 said:
Yes. See my tech article at: http://www.lscclub.org/tech/headLightLens.htm

Great article, I have had great success with using Easy Off oven cleaner as a first step. Just spray on and let sit for a few minutes and you will see the muck sliding off. Repeat 2 or more times before your move on to the wax and buff steps. This also works internally, but you have to rinse out the lens with water to get the Easy Off out and let it dry thoroughly before you reassemble or you will have water drops in the housing for years. I've also heard of people warming the assembly in an oven at about 150-175 degrees for 10 minutes or so until the lens glue loosens and you can pull off the lens from the assembly to get to cleaning and polishing the inside. Haven't tried this myself yet as I'll end up melting the S.O.B.s

K.I.S.S.
Keep It Simple Stupid
Test both bulbs for continuity. If you don't know how, ask somebody with a multimeter. It's free. If a bulb tests bad, replace both bulbs with the cheapest ones you can find. Hopefully that will be your only problem. If not and the bulbs blow up then you're only out $5.00 as apposed to the $30.00 blue-star-blind-your-neighbors-make-your-car-look-Japanese ones.

The light was tested for continuity and there was no current- that is where we are now. I wasn't looking for trouble shooting techniques, I was just wondering who manufactured the OEM driving lights- Bosch, Hella etc. because they're a bit banged up anyway so I thought on replacing them and then trouble shooting the electrical issue with me Fluke :wrench
 
OldSchool1 said:
Thanks Dude.
Read this article on continuity at: http://www.techguys.ca/howto/multimeter.html and then test the BULBS out of the vehicle for CONTINUITY.

Then reread my post.


Thanks OldSchool- let me rephrase my response: the light socket was tested for current with no go. And by driving light, I mean the ones under the front bumper, AKA fog lights (althought I always refer to amber ones as fog lights and clear ones as driving lights) Sorry I wasn't clear on that. Thanks again.
 
Fog lights? hehehehe WhyDidn'tYouSaySo?!?!

There are TONS of posts on Lincoln Mark VII fog lights here. If you have juice at one and not the other then you need only check a short run of wire as they are spliced at the harness (on my 1990 that is).
 
There is a 1989 Bill Blass Mark VII convertible on eBay right now. Here is the link (I also like the 1970 Mustang Mach I in the background):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ndexURL=0&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohosting

convertible.jpg
 
katz_blk90se said:
There is a 1989 Bill Blass Mark VII convertible on eBay right now. Here is the link (I also like the 1970 Mustang Mach I in the background):
...
I already asked DiTech and they refused to give me a sixth mortgage.
 

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