Little update on my clunker..:D

[BrianDye]

Shes got almost 190k on her now, everything original, (Not sure what maintenence previous owner did, I have reason to believe that he did absolutely nothing but got the oil changed, and filled it up with gas)

I wonder if he was even using premium? I say all this because when I test drove the car, he was telling me before hand that theres a bunch of bad sensors in the trunk (Yes, a bunch of them), that would make it say trunk ajar. And it did, it would pop up on the screen and beep on almost every bump saying Trunk Ajar, he said he delt with it for the time he had the car, and no one seemed to know what the problem was.

I got it home, and it was the little rubber "boot" on the trunk switch was halfway off, and the button wasnt depressing fully when the trunk was closed. Straightened the boot, never happened again.

ANYWAYS, back to the main point.

It had tranny issues (If you can remember awhile back), if I floored it, the tach would go sporratic, and the "Check Trans" would show, and then sometimes it wouldnt start back up after this for 2-3 minutes.

I had NO money to have anything checked out, and my mom was starting a new job so money was tight for her too (I basically gave her the car, her lease was up on the Escape she had), (but I can still take it whenever I want as long as she doesnt need it for work).

Ive moved up, got a raise, etc so now that I have some money, im getting this thing fixed. (Fixing just about everything on my own, besides the tranny)

I do have a few questions though. My mom (Unknowingly) took it to the dealer to get the codes read (Yet its free at Auzozone, or with my OBDII scanner with my phone), and the stalling issue checked out. I bet its the fuel filter which im sure is stock, but she got the oil changed and they told her they couldnt get to it? (Local shop), im guessing we'll have to drop the gas tank?

There is sway in the back end now, not bad, but noticeable. Dealer says its the rear hub? I thought shoot, thats an easy fix, I just did my whole Explorers front end for about 400) He says they only sell the whole knuckle, and its 1100$ but he can get it to us for $750, and with labor, it would be $1075. I would have hungup the phone, but again it was my mom talking.

So my question is, can I replace JUST the hub? I was on RockAuto, but didnt see just the hub.

As for the Check Engine Light, all I can do is "LOL" at this. I knew it was gonna be bad, but DAMN!

U1040
B1676
B2425
U1041 (Again)
B1676 - DFM
B1676 - GEM
U1041 (Again) - GEM
U1262 - HEC
P0156
P0420
B1932
B1676
U1041 - REM

(Yes, 13 codes WONDERFUL!)

Im gonna be online researching all these allllllll night tonight, but if anyone has any suggestions on the fuel filter, or anything else, feel free to chime in

**Aside from this, I can say that this car has been great to us. 18-19 MPGs, never left us stranded, never-not started (Besides the day I drove it home), so it was a 2800$ well spent. I figure with what they are going for (4-5k) I obviously would be getting one with problems, whether the guy admitted to it or not; (And I was younger at the time so I was like hey its a mint LS, awesome!) so im not to upset about the money im gonna be putting into it (My mom will also be, since she drives it more)


(Please dont load this thread with BS about when I was trying to sell my other vehicles, and all that. I was 16, immature, and desperate to sell them. Ive changed ALOT since then, and would like to earn some respect back on here, thanks guys!)

 

[FASTLLS]

Fuel filter is behind the drivers wheel.. You need to take the splash shield off to get to it..

The hub? I haven't really heard of the hubs going bad on the LS.. Maybe a bearing? Which is like 25 bucks and someone to press the old ones out and new ones in

 

[joegr]

The fuel filter is in the driver's front wheel well, behind the cover. Yes, it should be changed, but it's unlikely to be your stalling issue.

The free scan and possibly your scan tool would only have picked up the "P" codes.

U1040 - comms bus fault. This may not really be a problem. Random bus faults every once in a while happen even on cars with no problems. They sometimes cause "mystery beeps."

B1676 - Battery voltage out of range. You could have some loose wiring or a bad battery.

B2425 - Are your heated seats working?

U1041 - No speed data from the ABS module received at some module (you didn't say which module each code came from.)

B1676 - Voltage warning from another module.

B1676 - Voltage warning from another module.

U1041 - No speed data from the ABS module received at some module (you didn't say which module each code came from, no GEM on the LS. Maybe it means the FEM, front electronics module.)

U1262 - Comms bus fault.

P0156 - PCM does like what the driver's side post catalytic converter O2 monitor is saying.

P0420 - not happy about the passenger side catalytic converter either.

B1932 - Driver's air bag open circuit, probably the clockspring.

B1676 - Voltage warning from another module.

U1041 - No speed data from the ABS module received at the REM (rear electronics module)

 

[Mechanicboy]

The fuel filter is in the driver's front wheel well, behind the cover. Yes, it should be changed, but it's unlikely to be your stalling issue.

The free scan and possibly your scan tool would only have picked up the "P" codes.

U1040 - comms bus fault. This may not really be a problem. Random bus faults every once in a while happen even on cars with no problems. They sometimes cause "mystery beeps."

B1676 - Battery voltage out of range. You could have some loose wiring or a bad battery.

B2425 - Are your heated seats working?

U1041 - No speed data from the ABS module received at some module (you didn't say which module each code came from.)

B1676 - Voltage warning from another module.

B1676 - Voltage warning from another module.

U1041 - No speed data from the ABS module received at some module (you didn't say which module each code came from, no GEM on the LS. Maybe it means the FEM, front electronics module.)

U1262 - Comms bus fault.

P0156 - PCM does like what the driver's side post catalytic converter O2 monitor is saying.

P0420 - not happy about the passenger side catalytic converter either.

B1932 - Driver's air bag open circuit, probably the clockspring.

B1676 - Voltage warning from another module.

U1041 - No speed data from the ABS module received at the REM (rear electronics module)

Looking at this the VERY first thing I would do is find out you voltage issue. What your voltage before you start the car and while the car is running is. If you have a charging problem or a bad battery and fix that the most of these codes could go away.

Basically, you can't really know what's happening until you know you have a good battery and you charging system is working properly.

One question too, do your lights flicker while idling, or dim when you have your transmission problem(at WOT)?

 

[BrianDye]

Wow guess I should have looked a little harder for the fuel filter, but as for the battery, I didn't notice any dimming issues when the trans freaks out. Ill plug in my little obd tool and check things out for myself. We have to go pick it up tomorrow morning.

 

[BrianDye]

Straight from the dealership:

 

[BrianDye]

This might be a dumb question, but how would I test the alternator?

 

[oddball]

With the engine running, measure the voltage at the batter terminals. Around 14 is normal. Above 14.5 is high. Below 13.5 is low.
Bad/marginal batteries cause a whole ton of issues with the LS. It's just particularly sensitive to electrical fluctuations.
If the batter hasn't been replaced recently, it may be well worth the money to just do it. Do a search for battery threads as there's lots of argument on which type is "best" (dealer w/ vent, generic, AGM, etc).

 

[BrianDye]

Got a new battery just now, just went to AZ and got a Duralast Gold (Ive replaced 2 of my previous Explorers batteries with DG's and LOVE them), the old Motorcraft from '05 had a red eye (That little thing thats green if its good, red if bad), and they tested it and told me it was at like 9.9 volts.... I was like yep thats gotta be the culprit.

Wires all look new still, no corrosion, etc so we'll see what happens.

(Threw the battery in and she cranked twice as fast as normal. Airbag light still on, but im pretty sure thats the clockspring; no CEL codes yet after it ran for about 30 minutes, which is expected but hopefully most of those codes dont come back)