key fob battery

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Lincoln Jealous

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if the battery went dead, and i cant use the remote, would the pats light blink? i pressed the lock on the door, and still wont lock,( i put the key in start today to put it in neutral), but when i closed the door, and pressed the remote it didnt work... im wondering if i reset something by leaving the key in the start position for 6 minutes lol
 
the PATS light will blink - even if the battery is near a full drain. However, it may not be as bright or blink as regular. If you put your key in the ignition and actually try to start the car, do the needles peg over to the right of the gauges? If so, you've got a battery that's near its bottom. Sometimes the airbag light will light up when you try to start even though the rest of the lights (and rest of the car) is doing nothing.

And yes, I am speaking from shameful experience here - had to talk to 1LoudLS twice because I wasn't sure what was going on with the car.

If you decide to jump it, make sure you put the negative cable directly on the battery instead of on the spare tire's threaded rod/ground. The battery is going to need the direct connection if it is indeed that low.

Good luck,


TRU
 
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I don't think I completely understand your post.

Leaving the key in the start position for six minutes would normally burn out the starter. I assume you really mean the run position (with engine not running). If so, you should be okay.
A dead battery in the remote will have no affect on the PATS. It doesn't interact with the remote in any way. It interacts with the RF ID chip inside the key. There is no battery for that chip, it is powered by RF energy coming from the PATS transceiver around the key slot. The remote interacts with the driver's door module.

What is your actual problem?

The car won't start?

The remote won't unlock the door?
 
lol, thanks for you response, i dont know what the issue is, its getting dark out, and the caliper is first on my list tomorrow, but basicly i went to press the key fob buttons and the door didnt lock like it did earlier, the pat light was doing the normal blinkin like the alarm is activated, but the doors were all unlocked, i ended up manually locking each door, and the pats light it still the same, - as if activated, i havent started the car yet, so i cant say if it stopped me from starting it, i had the key position to "off ", to put the shift in neutral, so i could freely move the hubs, im thinkin its wants me to start it to reset something
 
The PATS light always blinks when the key is off, perhaps you haven't noticed. It does this if the car is locked or unlocked. It is not at all connected to the car's alarm. There is no light to indicate if the alarm is armed or not.

The reason it blinks is to warn would be thieves that the car has PATS and therefore will be harder to steal.

If your car battery is low just from having the key in the run position for six minutes, it's time for a new battery.

The PATS light draws a few thousandths of an AMP. The electric door locks take an amp or two when locking or unlocking. The starter takes around 300 amps.
 
lol, i never noticed the light unless i get out and set the alarm, now i know, thanks joegr, im not sure if the battery in the remote is bad, or the car battery, i pressed the remote and the doors didnt lock. do the doors lock from the inside if the car isnt on? i tried that too and just ended up locking each door by hand
 
Yes, the inside button should work if the key is on or off. Sounds like your car battery is toast.
 
joegr said:
Yes, the inside button should work if the key is on or off. Sounds like your car battery is toast.
Click to expand...

thanks, ill check into it tomorrow, if its not the battery... has anyone had a problem with the power lock actuator in the driver door? the car hasnt shown any sign of the battery going, but you never know with these cars :( lol
 
joegr said:
The PATS light always blinks when the key is off, perhaps you haven't noticed. It does this if the car is locked or unlocked. It is not at all connected to the car's alarm. There is no light to indicate if the alarm is armed or not.

The reason it blinks is to warn would be thieves that the car has PATS and therefore will be harder to steal.

If your car battery is low just from having the key in the run position for six minutes, it's time for a new battery.

The PATS light draws a few thousandths of an AMP. The electric door locks take an amp or two when locking or unlocking. The starter takes around 300 amps.
Click to expand...

so if the car starts, but still wont lock/unlock then its not the battery i guess?
 
i gotta try this tomorrow, i just read it in another thread, seems like theres atleast 4 others that had the same issues,

Insert the key in the ignition and turn it to the right but not far enough to engage the starter. Then turn the key off then on 8 times. Some cars need only 6 times, but you will know if you are a 6-turn car because after the 6th (or eighth) turn, the doors will lock and unlock. Within the next 10 seconds hit any button on the fob. Do this for both fobs. Having them both in hand means you only have to do the key-turning thing once. By the way, they key will still be in the 'on' position. Remove the key and the doors will lock again indicating success. Get out and try the fobs. They should work. Now, I know I might have messed up somewhere along the way and my printed instructions are in my car manual holder---where I won't be able to read them if I'm locked out.
 
I thought you said that the lock button on the inside was not working either. If true,then you problem is not that the remotes aren't programmed, but is something else.
 
joegr said:
I thought you said that the lock button on the inside was not working either. If true,then you problem is not that the remotes aren't programmed, but is something else.
Click to expand...


i know, i have to check it, i just read others had issues with both locks inside and out, also the remote, im going to check the battery first, maybe i might need to replace the door actuator,
 
ok so i wasnt going to be able to sleep if i didnt go check, i think the battery is dead : ( i would turn the key where the cluster should flash and it didnt, when i had the key in the position for the electronics, nothing worked, and now the pats light isnt flashing, so i guess the battery is dead mon? i guess ill just be expecting to buy a battery : ( that :q:q:q:qIN SUCKS! i hate buyin LS batteries : (
 
I would try a jump and recharge before I'd go out and buy a new battery. Especially if this is the first time that it's been completely drained. Unless the battery is 4 or 5 years old, then I'd just get a new one.

If you decide to try and jump it, let the car your jumping from run for about 10 - 15 minutes with the wires connected directly to BOTH posts of your LS' battery. Then try to start your baby and let it run for about another 10 minutes.

Good luck,

TRU
 
Tru-Blu said:
I would try a jump and recharge before I'd go out and buy a new battery. Especially if this is the first time that it's been completely drained. Unless the battery is 4 or 5 years old, then I'd just get a new one.

If you decide to try and jump it, let the car your jumping from run for about 10 - 15 minutes with the wires connected directly to BOTH posts of your LS' battery. Then try to start your baby and let it run for about another 10 minutes.

Good luck,

TRU
Click to expand...

I have to respectfully disagree. If the battery has gone down so low that nothing is working, it will not recover. It has been seriously damaged. It will just keep giving you trouble.

Also, make double sure that the vent tube is correctly connected before you make the last jumper connection on the battery. (Spark + bad vent = explosion) If you must connect to both battery posts, make the last jumper cable connection be to the ground of the car providing the jump. (The battery in the working car is probably in better shape and less likely to be venting.)

Battery explosions are rare, but I would feel bad if my advice caused someone to lose their eyes.
 
joegr said:
I have to respectfully disagree. If the battery has gone down so low that nothing is working, it will not recover. It has been seriously damaged. It will just keep giving you trouble.

Also, make double sure that the vent tube is correctly connected before you make the last jumper connection on the battery. (Spark + bad vent = explosion) If you must connect to both battery posts, make the last jumper cable connection be to the ground of the car providing the jump. (The battery in the working car is probably in better shape and less likely to be venting.)

Battery explosions are rare, but I would feel bad if my advice caused someone to lose their eyes.
Click to expand...


i agree, i believe that since there is no charge from the battery at all, i dont think it should be jumped, i know i should just replace it, its alittle over a year old, at one time i had some water in the trunk so i dont really want to keep the battery since its so far dead, i hate to have to pay for the battery, but what can you do sometimes
 
Yep, just make sure it's the battery and not a loose battery cable.
 
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