I think my OBD scanner is screwing with my LS

[Joshawa]

ok so I plug in my OBD scanner everything on my dash flashes, gauges all go to 0 and then move back, at random times. Then I threw it in and I think it's what caused the brake code earlier, because when I connected it again, not even doing anything other than live monitoring, the monitor told me to check my advancetrac. I unplugged the scanner and moved the key to the off position and back to the on position without starting the car (it wasn't on when it flashed the check advancetrac) and the message was gone. Two pending trouble codes have come and gone on their own just from plugging it in and unplugging it (verified with a different scanner). 3 of my engine monitors are "INC" On my scanner (thinking that means incomplete).

What's going on why does my LS freak out when I have the scanner is connected???

 

[Joshawa]

This has all happened within 24 hours. I just bought the scanner which I think is doing this brand new with this car (Amazon) it's a fox well nt301. It never gives me any warnings when not using the scan tool

 

[joegr]

I don't recall hearing about this happening to anyone else. Certainly, it's possible. It could be interfering with communications, or it could be loading down that power circuit. Alternately, it could be that it is the last straw for some electrical problem with the car.

A good way to start troubleshooting this is to measure voltage at the battery, the front power point, and the OBD II connector (power pins). Be sure to check with the engine off, and with the engine running. You should get at least 12V engine off (ideally, 12.6 to 12.9 volts), and at least 13.8 engine running (ideally 14.2 volts). Over 14.8 volts is a problem.

 

[Joshawa]

Hmm. I'd have to buy a tool to check that, could you point me in the right direction, I'm not the most familiar with electrical things. Could it be that there's not enough power? Would that be like a weak battery or alternator? Or if it's too much what would cause the? Thanks for responding to my threads! I appreciate the insight.

 

[Joshawa]

Or maybe could it potentially be bad fuses?

 

[joegr]

Or maybe could it potentially be bad fuses?

I see that thought here and there. I have never seen a "bad" fuse, and I've seen plenty of fuses. (I have seen bad breakers.) Almost always, fuses are good or they are blown. I suppose that it is not impossible for one to get to some high resistance state due to corrosion or constant stress, but that's unlikely. There are known issues with corrosion of the PCM relay socket in the under hood fuse box. There could also be problems with the SSP relays and sockets in the trunk, particularly if you have the wrong battery back there. (Wrong battery would be any without the vent tube that runs out of the trunk connected.)

Certainly, alternators are known to fail with age. Under voltage is much more common than over voltage, but over voltage can cause a lot of damage very quickly. You can get a decent digital multi-meter pretty cheaply from several places. Walmart is one of those places.

 

[Joshawa]

I see that thought here and there. I have never seen a "bad" fuse, and I've seen plenty of fuses. (I have seen bad breakers.) Almost always, fuses are good or they are blown. I suppose that it is not impossible for one to get to some high resistance state due to corrosion or constant stress, but that's unlikely. There are known issues with corrosion of the PCM relay socket in the under hood fuse box. There could also be problems with the SSP relays and sockets in the trunk, particularly if you have the wrong battery back there. (Wrong battery would be any without the vent tube that runs out of the trunk connected.)

I'll take a picture of the battery in the trunk and send it for you to get a better idea. Where is the fusebox or breaker box I'll take photos and inspect them all as well

 

[joegr]

Your owner's manual shows all three fuse boxes.
www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/2003LincolnLS-OwnersManual.pdf

 

[Joshawa]

Thank you for the link, my LS didn't come with the manual, so I also don't know how to access my pin pad on my door. I'll check and take pictures and get back to you!

 

[joegr]

... so I also don't know how to access my pin pad on my door. I'll check and take pictures and get back to you!

Bad news on that. You need a dealer level scan tool to retrieve the factory code.

 

[Joshawa]

Would they do that for free or am I gonna be SOL and have to pay

 

[joegr]

Would they do that for free or am I gonna be SOL and have to pay

A really nice dealer that you use a lot might do it at no extra charge while changing your oil or doing some other service. If you go in for just the code, most will charge the standard diagnostic fee ($100 or so).

 

[Joshawa]

A really nice dealer that you use a lot might do it at no extra charge while changing your oil or doing some other service. If you go in for just the code, most will charge the standard diagnostic fee ($100 or so).

Thanks for that advice, I'll try and see if I can slide it in at an oil change. Thank you!!

 

[RigsLS]

Needs a brand new vented OEM battery (cheapest)