i just purchased a 2000 ls v8 and its overheating please help
- Thread starter c.camp420
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joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Okay, first if you have radiator "fans" and not a single fan, then either you don't have an LS or you have one that is very modified.
Second, the overflow is at the degas bottle which is at the windshield at the driver's side. Any water coming from the bottom of the engine is from some ruptured cooling system part.
I wish you the best of luck with this, but I strongly advise that you take it to someone who knows how to work on an LS. At this point, it seems like you may be a bit over your head here. Otherwise, search this forum, there are lots of possible cooling system problems with the LS, and I think that just about all of them have been covered here. You should expect to have to replace pretty much all of the plastic cooling system parts and you may have to do some work on the hydraulic cooling fan system.
Second, the overflow is at the degas bottle which is at the windshield at the driver's side. Any water coming from the bottom of the engine is from some ruptured cooling system part.
I wish you the best of luck with this, but I strongly advise that you take it to someone who knows how to work on an LS. At this point, it seems like you may be a bit over your head here. Otherwise, search this forum, there are lots of possible cooling system problems with the LS, and I think that just about all of them have been covered here. You should expect to have to replace pretty much all of the plastic cooling system parts and you may have to do some work on the hydraulic cooling fan system.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
We're still out of sync here. The LS has just one engine cooling fan. (It has a climate control blower for the AC.)
Anyway, I didn't and don't mean to be harsh, but you're the one who is in sight of the car, not us. If you want useful help, you have to be willing to look closely enough at the car to at least know that there is just one fan and to determine exactly where the cooling system is leaking from. I'll help you, but only if you are willing to put in some effort yourself.
i did not take anything u said offensive, i know you are trying to help and im grateful you'll take the time to help me. i cant tell where its leaking from cuz soon as i seen water i shut her down. but i tried starting it again and it did not leak and now my heater is working again. so i think it was just the overflow that leaked cuz it was hot, but most of the water came from between the rad and motor, witch would be something else right? and like i said it looks like its straight water w/ no antifreeze, would that make it overheat?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Trust me (who you don't know and therefore probably shouldn't), the water/coolant you saw didn't come from the overflow.
Using straight water instead of antifreeze is not good, but that by itself wouldn't cause overheating. The overheating is probably caused by two factors, both related to one or more leaks that you must have.
1. There is air in the cooling system, so it doesn't cool where the air is.
2. The cooling system isn't pressurizing, so the boiling point of the coolant is two low. (Steam does not cool nearly as well as water does.)
The odds are that your degas bottle is cracked and that one or more of the plastic pieces in the middle of the radiator hoses are cracked as well.
Get the leaks fixed first. After that, you can see if the hydraulic cooling fan is working correctly, as well as the DCCV and the aux pump.
Using straight water instead of antifreeze is not good, but that by itself wouldn't cause overheating. The overheating is probably caused by two factors, both related to one or more leaks that you must have.
1. There is air in the cooling system, so it doesn't cool where the air is.
2. The cooling system isn't pressurizing, so the boiling point of the coolant is two low. (Steam does not cool nearly as well as water does.)
The odds are that your degas bottle is cracked and that one or more of the plastic pieces in the middle of the radiator hoses are cracked as well.
Get the leaks fixed first. After that, you can see if the hydraulic cooling fan is working correctly, as well as the DCCV and the aux pump.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
NO, unless it got cold enough to freeze, and break stuff
then you need to give it just enough time to see exactly where the leak is, other wise you'll just spend forever guessing.
its only overflow if it coming from some where behind the drivers side front wheel
yes this would indicate a severe leak, and any place that lets water/coolant out will let air in, and air trapped into the system could make the car overheat.
thank you
Gunther1000
Active LVC Member
I'd be Leary of straight water in a car you just bought.
Common head Gasket fixes avalible from your local parts store mostly
require straight water to set up and zero anti freeze.
The chemicals typicly clog the heater core also so if NO heat what so ever becomes an issue and or your blowing a hose upon warmup, it could be something larger.
I hope not but just thinking out side the box here.
Common head Gasket fixes avalible from your local parts store mostly
require straight water to set up and zero anti freeze.
The chemicals typicly clog the heater core also so if NO heat what so ever becomes an issue and or your blowing a hose upon warmup, it could be something larger.
I hope not but just thinking out side the box here.
Gunther1000
Active LVC Member
How hot was the motor?
And just because it doesn't "feel" like something is moving I'm sure if it was running you would notice a cold hose vs a warm/hot as hell hose right?
it was right below half mark on temp gauge, top one felt really hollow as the bottom felt like their was pressure
Gunther1000
Active LVC Member
But the temp of them was about the same right?
The top one may not feel full of fluid when it infact is.
But if it gets hot then its moving water.
When you look all around where this mystery leak came from your telling me that there is ZERO trace of where it may have come from?????
Just clean as a whisle down there huh...
Odd
I've actually never heard of a head gasket failure on an LS. Not saying it's not possible, but very unlikely.
no it wasnt as warm as the bottom. and yes i looked while it was runing again and i still see no leaks an their is water in resaviour.
Gunther1000
Active LVC Member
I agree, but if one were to run the car hot with no coolant in it causing it
to test its flexability enough times ones bound to see it.
But I'm thinking this guy has a water pump weeping or other leak.
Possible? Maybe. Most t-stats now are designed to fail in the open position, which would mean it would take forever to get to operating temp instead of overheating quickly.
To me it sounds like you need a new radiator, if it's coming from between the rad and engine. I don't really recall what's all there though. I would get underneath and see if you can trace the leak to it's source. Check to see if there are any leaks from hoses first.
Actually, was it leaking/spraying from the engine side or radiator side?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
The thermostat doesn't open until a bit after the gauge has hit the halfway mark.
Trapped air (from the leak) would inhibit water flow as well.
I agree that a head gasket failure is very unlikely. I've yet to hear of one on the 3.9. I suspect that the lack of antifreeze means that it's been leaking for a long time and the previous abuser (I mean owner) just kept pouring water in.
That's why I asked him if the leak is coming from the radiator side or the engine side.
yeah and you know whats funny about that i bought it from a "friend" and he neglected to tell me there was water instead of antifreeze and with the winter coming that would of been bad if i didnt know.
Gunther1000
Active LVC Member
I suspect a pressure tester isnt on hand around the OP's garage... But If it were that would help determine if there was a leak.
I personally would do a inch by inch check for cracks or loose hoses to allow air into the system first then at least bleed the system then run it a while and look for a repeat.
THEN either fix what you find or call it magicly fixed like "Christine" and put some fresh coolant in it.
I personally would do a inch by inch check for cracks or loose hoses to allow air into the system first then at least bleed the system then run it a while and look for a repeat.
THEN either fix what you find or call it magicly fixed like "Christine" and put some fresh coolant in it.
thanks every1 for your info, i appreciate it. i know nothing about this car and by looking at the motor it doesnts appear to be easy to work on. im going to get a chilton book on it so i can go over everything. thanks again you guys responded very quick!
bearsfan39
Dedicated LVC Member
if he doesn't want it, i'll take it