High speed fan saga continues - help

[Ringmaster]

My 03 V8 Sport high speed fan issue continues. I installed a new thermostat. I had the shop flush cooling system and install new coolant. I've done my best to bleed the system although I'm unclear if the degas bottle cap should be off when doing the bleed. I left it on. I have discovered that if I'm sitting in the driveway with the engine running and I run either or both heating controls up to 90 the fan speed will drop to what I guess is normal after a minute or so. In other words you can't hear it. Does this indicate I might still have air in the heater? If so why wouldn't the shop have bled the thing. Ideas? Thanks.

 

[Lincoln Jealous]

1. Remove the engine fill cap.

2. Open the heater air bleed.

3. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.

4. Install the degas bottle cap.

CAUTION: Care must be taken to make sure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.

5. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.

6. Install the engine fill cap.
* Install the engine fill cap until contact is made and then tighten an additional 45 degrees (1/8 turn).

7.

NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
Start the engine and turn the heater to the defrost (90°F) position.

8. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant escapes during engine idle.

9. Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.

10. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any trapped air and close again.

11. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.

12. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.

13. Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F) and allow the vehicle to idle for 2 minutes.

14. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.

15. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.

your correct about the degas cap, you leave that on, so the dealership bleed your coolant and gave it back to you still overheating? could be your fan solenoid, i had that issue

 

[Outkast]

wait...engine fan or blower motor?

im confused because you speak of setting the heat to 90

 

[Ringmaster]

1. The shop didn't give me the car back still overheating. The car was never overheating. The fan just runs at full blast.

2. I'm talking engine fan here not heater blower. When I talked about raising the temp to 90 and the fan slowed down I was refering to the engine fan.

 

[joegr]

Okay, so it's not overheating, but it is (it would seem) getting hotter than the PCM would like for it to be. This indicates that something is sub par about your cooling system.

Make sure there is no air in the cooling system

Make sure the air flow is not obstructed through the radiator, condenser, or transmission cooler.

Make sure the fan's blades are not damaged.

Make sure that all air shrouds are in place.

Make sure that water flow is not obstructed through the radiator.

Make sure that the cooling system builds and holds pressure.

Make sure the water pump fins are not loose or worn down.

Measure the actual engine coolant temperature and compare it to the temperature reading that the PCM has.

The pressure on the high side of the AC compressor can also cause the fan to run too fast, but using the heater wouldn't stop that, so I don't think you have to look there.

 

[Morbid Intentions]

1. fill crankcase with water

2. buy new car

3. profit?


(for those of you not in the know)
http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-general-discussion/368307-im-done-with-this-car.html

 

[Ringmaster]

Joegr, thanks for all the suggestions. I'll need a day off for all that. And some I probably can't do.