High Output Alternator Resolution Discussion

Jdblse said:
Ohio generators is the solution, I run 3 500 jl, two 300/4, drop the money and just by the alternator instead of going crazy trying to figure it out
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Is your LS a gen1 (00-02) or gen2 (03-06)? I think the PCM control on gen2's is different. I could be wrong. Have you done any voltage testing to verify you are getting the correct voltage at idle?
 
I own a 2002 Lincoln LSE... I normally wouldn't join these forums I just was sick of watching everybody struggle, I have been a mechanic for quite some time now many years and have access to every single program that you can imagine... everybody is correct yes the computer is controlling the alternator charge, the object is to trick the computer... which Ohio generators has done, now the only problem that I had as I had to send the alternator back one time for a different pin connector, upon return of the alternator I have a steady 13.8 volts all the way around under any kind of load. at any rpm. Itd very expensive though.... the easiest way to alleviate this is to wire dual batteries. preferably a dry cell with a wet cell battery wired in parallel you must have a battery isolator though and a voltage regulator, it puts very minimal stress on the alternator, and if you really wanna minimal stress on your alternator, you can wire to 6 volts in a series circuit parallel to your wet cell battery, which will in turn create 12 volts your averageamperage will depend on what 6 volts batteries you purchase
 
My phones a Little messed up so if its not clear to you ill send you the information when I get on my home computer.. besides being a auto mechanic I've built tons and tons of systems s and tons of shows, its called ohms law, it's basically physics for electrical systems, the other thing, you would want to do is beef up your be three wire and you will be just fine

I hate giving sercrets up hahaha, anybody out there having problems starting their car in the morning takes too long to start and cant figire it out, or The all mighty Check chargeing light wont Go off, air bag light on??? for all you generation 2 guys out there, is your transmission shifting hard? does your electrical system go crazy when you turn the key. I just want to help my fellow LS friends
 
Thanks for the info. I know quikLS used Ohio generator years ago. I tried to contact him awhile back a bout specifics and got no response. I contacted ohio generator and they said theirs works. But so did the others I tried....looks like we have an answer. Thanks
 
I promise thats your answer, i can prove it too, listen The easiest thing to do is wire a power cell battery, lets just say you have a 1000 watt rms system, get a dry cell battery thats rated For 1500 rms, electrical loads aren't taken off of your alternator The battery is suppose to do that, if you have a Little bit bigger dry cell battery than you actully need it Will handle The load just fine and The alternator Will have no problem catching up... Its super easy and doesnt kill your pockets, you have to remember when you car is running 30% of power goes to the car alone, just keep that in mind. U can keep your stock alternator, ( ford doesnt call them altetnators they call them generators) anyway best cheap solution is get a dry cell, it has to be a dry cell battery and a battery isolater and ur good!! I have pics of everything
 
Any other problems your having gen 1 or 2, ask me I either know or can find out, p.s. If your car takes forever to start sometimes and cant figure out why, your FUEL INJECTORS ARE LEAKING!!
 
Jdblse said:
Any other problems your having gen 1 or 2, ask me I either know or can find out, p.s. If your car takes forever to start sometimes and cant figure out why, your FUEL INJECTORS ARE LEAKING!!
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Since you asked....

I've had a tone through ~2500rpm since I've had the car. Here is Ford's response:


19419 2003-2006 Lincoln LS- High frequency noise in passanger compartment-Advancetrac system- Do not attempt repairs/replacement- Normal operation Some 2003-2006 Lincoln LS vehicles equipped with Advancetrac and a THX audio/Navigation system may exhibit a high frequency noise in the passanger compartment for 2 to 3 seconds during the functional self-check of the Advancetrac system. This self-check happens once per key cycle the first time the engine reaches 2500 rpm or higher, with the vehicle speed between 15 and 55 mph, while not braking. This is a normal characteristic of the vehicle, so no repair should be attempted.

Effective date: 10/06/2006
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Ideas?????
 
They use the same common ground buddy, change the grounds. Its absolutely no different than an aftermarket stereo that makes that same wine... Its the same exact problem, Ford ran grounds RCA's and everything factory in one wire bundle which we all should know when u run a system you keep your power on one one side and anyrhing carrying sound on the other side, power grounds and sound carrying wires are all in the same harness on that car, move them and separate them and your wind will disappear
 
My phone is giving me a hard time trying to answer, excuse my spelling and things of that nature
 
Make sence yet??? Think about it, you wouldn't hear a thing if they weren't combine somehow...... it's a nightmare to fix though and I don't recommend it




Ideas?????[/QUOTE]
 
Well thats the only way to make it go away . its just an annoying job honestly, only other option is to either run ur own power and grounds to the factory or buy an after market unit and do it,that way, I wish I had a better answer, what you can do is disabled the advance Trac but then your life will always be on... That runs threw abs sensors and stuff like that so u will have all types of lights on
 
You have factory amps and seperate power for the headunit too, you gotta do them all, ive done it before and found it very annoying, I mean it wasnt to to bad, I just kept asking myself why am I doing this when there are people making millions of dollars designing cars, and they leave this out,
 
LS4me said:
Since you asked....

I've had a tone through ~2500rpm since I've had the car. Here is Ford's response:




Ideas?????
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I think what I would do, assuming that Jdblse's assumption that it is a common ground issue is correct, would be to get a wiring diagram of the car for the Advancetrac, then install a new ground wire for it. This would likely mean altering one ground wire only. If you don't want to risk messing with the Advancetrac system, relocate the ground wire for each active component in the sound system.

I'm glad you posted this though, because I've had an intermittent tone come on with no message center notation and I've wondered what it is. Now that I know, I can ignore it.

Oh, and if you do this and it fixes it, you can call your engineer buddies over at Lincoln and ask them what kind of cut rate dope they were smoking when they designed that POS system. ;) :p :cool:
 
Telco said:
I think what I would do, assuming that Jdblse's assumption that it is a common ground issue is correct, would be to get a wiring diagram of the car for the Advancetrac, then install a new ground wire for it. This would likely mean altering one ground wire only. If you don't want to risk messing with the Advancetrac system, relocate the ground wire for each active component in the sound system.

I'm glad you posted this though, because I've had an intermittent tone come on with no message center notation and I've wondered what it is. Now that I know, I can ignore it.

Oh, and if you do this and it fixes it, you can call your engineer buddies over at Lincoln and ask them what kind of cut rate dope they were smoking when they designed that POS system. ;) :p :cool:
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The mystery beep from the dash is not the same thing as this tone from the speakers (only happens with THX nav option).
I have an after market head unit and I still get the tone from the factory amp. It's not power and ground at the head unit. It's really hard to believe that it is power or ground at the factory amp, given where it is and how it is wired. I suspect that it is coupling between the line level audio wiring and the power wiring that runs next to it from the back of the car to the front. If so, the solution would be to cut the existing line level wiring and add new line level wiring between the head unit and the amp in the trunk, running it on the other side of the car. To me, the one squeal each trip is not worth doing this to eliminate it.
 
Hmm, out of curiosity, would you happen to know what that mystery beep is? I have no intention of tracking it down, and I'll never lose a minute's sleep if I never find out.
 
Telco said:
Hmm, out of curiosity, would you happen to know what that mystery beep is? I have no intention of tracking it down, and I'll never lose a minute's sleep if I never find out.
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There's no single cause. The issue is that a problem can happen and clear before the message can be displayed and read. Some of the causes are:
Fuel data error: minor glitch with one of the fuel level senders
comms bus error glitch.
loose bulb socket causing false blub out messages that clear to quickly to read.
transmission error.
and on and on...
 
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