Gross Polluter needs help!

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uxler

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Had my car (93 Mark VIII, 170K miles) smog checked today and the technician used the words "killing machine" to describe the vehicle emissions condition. In the hydrocarbon test, my car emitted 341 PPM. Max is 81 and anything over 266 is considered a gross polluter. In the CO test, my car emitted 9.37%. Max is 0.47 and anything over 1.97 is considered a gross polluter.

So, not only did I fail but I failed miserably. Within the last month ive replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, air filter, TPS, IAC, fuel filter, reapired an exhaust leak and changed the oil. What could cause such ridiculous CO & HC outputs? Oxygen sensors, cat converter, fuel pressure reg, fuel pump? If ox sensors, should i replace both? Which is the mostly likely culprit, where should i start?
 
Fuel pressure regular *could* but those typically fail and you would notice a low pressure problem.

O2 sensors probably, just replace the two forward ones if you have 96 or newer. Cats, could be, but most members here probably have the stock one (if they have them at all :) ) They last easily over 200k, unless you let your O2 sensors go bad for a stupid long time! Cost, about $60 per side and a little bit of a pain to replace.
 
PM me, I know a good smog guy in the valley that is reasonable and will help you diagnose your cars problems and help you get it to pass.
 
unity said:
Fuel pressure regular *could* but those typically fail and you would notice a low pressure problem.
Click to expand...

Usually when an FPR goes bad, it's because the vacuum diaphragm ruptures inside. Since the vacuum isn't pulling on the diaphragm, the pressure increases (no vacuum=WOT=max pressure). Not only that, but the vacuum hose sucks fuel through the bad diaphragm. I had one die on my T-Bird, and you could definitely smell all the fuel in the exhaust.

It's really easy to check, though. Just remove the vacuum hose and take a whiff. If you smell gas, it's bad.

If not, I'd try the O2 sensors next. Also run the EEC self-test to see if there are any stored codes, even if the Check Engine light isn't on.
 
sometimes i just love living in the middle of nowhere........in CA :p


smog whaaaaa?!?!?!?!?


only time a car has to be smogged were i live is when theres a change of ownership......THATS IT. :D


u sure that thing has a cat? one of my friends brother bought a Civic Si, it was putting out crazy numbers like that, we did a whole complete tune up on it, still failed, nothing changed........


the cat had been gutted out........ :rolleyes:
 
I hate smog tests, and I'm glad I don't live in an area that has them.

But look on the bright side-- if the emissions are really out of whack, it probably means something is causing the engine to run inefficiently. In that case fixing it will improve power and fuel economy, with the side benefit of being more environmentally-friendly. :)
 
Check engine light goes on and off but is mostly on. My coolant level has been a little low lately and from time to time theres a faint coolant smell under the hood. May have a small coolant leak which could be related to a faulty Coolant Temp Sensor maybe? Going to run codes tommorow, will post results. What a nightmare this CA smog crap is!
 
segxr7 said:
Usually when an FPR goes bad, it's because the vacuum diaphragm ruptures inside. Since the vacuum isn't pulling on the diaphragm, the pressure increases (no vacuum=WOT=max pressure). Not only that, but the vacuum hose sucks fuel through the bad diaphragm. I had one die on my T-Bird, and you could definitely smell all the fuel in the exhaust.

It's really easy to check, though. Just remove the vacuum hose and take a whiff. If you smell gas, it's bad.

If not, I'd try the O2 sensors next. Also run the EEC self-test to see if there are any stored codes, even if the Check Engine light isn't on.
Click to expand...


Good point - but I want to clarify a bit. While true, pressure goes UP when it fails - it really does not, a fuel pressure test will reveal low or no-fuel pressure. This is because, as you said, it can dump into the vacuum line. So even in the regulator is stuck in the "high pressure" position, there will be low or no pressure - like a hole in a straw.
 
Ran the codes today and here what I got:

1. Oddly enough the first code i got was 111 which means system pass, go figure.

Then under stored Continuous Memory Codes I got the following:

2. Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor (Bank 1)- voltage signal indicates lean

3. Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor (Bank 2)- voltage signal indicates lean

4. Cylinder Identification Sensor- Circuit Failure (maybe related to plug wires i just put in? possibly loose connection somewhere?)

5.Fuel Pump cicuit open connection- Electronic Control Assemble to battery

I cleared all continous memory codes after the last time I used the code reader so these code are new, reguardless of the fact that theyre showing up under continuous memory. Any ideas on how to fix 4 and 5?
 
Your biggest problem is the O2 sensors,they are showing lean,so the computer is dumping fuel in to try and switch them towards rich,thats the biggest pollution problem you have going on there.












uxler said:
Ran the codes today and here what I got:

1. Oddly enough the first code i got was 111 which means system pass, go figure.

Then under stored Continuous Memory Codes I got the following:

2. Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor (Bank 1)- voltage signal indicates lean

3. Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor (Bank 2)- voltage signal indicates lean

4. Cylinder Identification Sensor- Circuit Failure (maybe related to plug wires i just put in? possibly loose connection somewhere?)

5.Fuel Pump cicuit open connection- Electronic Control Assemble to battery

I cleared all continous memory codes after the last time I used the code reader so these code are new, reguardless of the fact that theyre showing up under continuous memory. Any ideas on how to fix 4 and 5?
Click to expand...
 
Check all of your vacuum lines. You have a large leak. Those o2 codes are an indication, that the computer is at or close to its maximum adjustment allowance on fuel. Since you have a code for both banks, the leak is in a common location. Cylinder identification, I believe has to do with the Cam position senser located behind the power steering res. Fuel pump circuit open to battery, sounds like a power supply problem to the ECA. Check fuses, wires. Also, since these codes are in continuous memory, that means they are intermittent. When your light turns on and off, that means the problem appeared and then corrected itself. The first code you received, 111 was for realtime problems; you don't have any.
 
If the cam sensor is bad, it can also through everything off since it times the injectors, crank position times spark. I agree, replace cam sensors (cheap) and check for vacuum leak. The O2s should correct, they dont typically wear out in pairs for some reason, but replacing in pairs is best. If you find a vacuum leak, fix it and the cam sensor then go play on the high to get the carbon build-up out which may have resulted fro a vacuum leak. Good luck!
 
Get a can of starting fluid and CAREFULLY spray small amounts around the intake gaskets, vacuum lines, brake booster etc. Spray a little and listen, if RPM climbs, you have a leak. One common place is a T off the throttle body in the back. Is large and is made of black rubber with two black tubes coming out of it.
 
Havent contacted your guy yet, been trying to diagnose and fix myself in an effort to save money. As far the problem being the O2 sensors, it seem unlikely to me as well that both would go bad simulataneously. Still trying to figure out what might be causing them to think the engine is running lean.
 
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