Gas Smell when starting in cold weather??

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Alvinpokey

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I bought a 2003 Lincoln 6 Cyl. in the summer. I started to notice that when the temp outside is colder than 20 Deg F and the car has sat overnight, it starts, but the tac goes up and down from 500 to 1200 rpms at around 1 second in between. I get a gas smell inside the car, but it is not leaking onto the ground. while it is doing this, if I put the car in gear and push the brakes, they are hard as a rock. If it is not too cold out (below 10 Deg F), I can turn off the ignition and restart the car and I can put the car in gear and basically drive like I never had the problem, but this morning it was even colder and restarting did not help, the bogging did not stop until I think the motor got a little warmth in it, but that was after it stalled about 7 times....Also, after this happens, the check engine light will stay on and then usually goes away after a day or two. This one has me stumped.

I have run injection cleaner, use gas line anti freeze and use only 91 or higher octane gas.

Not sure if this is related but there is no heat in the car until the guage is right in the middle between cold and hot.

Any help with this would be hugely appreciated.
 
You should probably get the code read at a parts store. Get the actual code number - not just the description.
Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with the V6. It will have a few mechanisms to deal with warmup in extreme cold, although the electronic throttle should handle most of it. If nothing else, should check your air filter, clean the MAF, and take a close look at the throttle body to see if it needs to be cleaned. Won't hurt, but may not fix the problem.
 
+1 @oddball. You need to get the codes read. Report back with the results.
 
Sounds like it's the PCV elbow issue. The indication that there is no vacuum for the brake booster when this happens is a pretty good clue.
 
Thanks for the replies. Will get the codes this weekend and will let you know. Just glad to have a few days of warm weather till then.
Besides this issue...car runs awesome...definitely hooked on this car!!
 
Sorry this took so long to update...The car now has new plugs and coil packs, new PCV Valve and hose assembly from valve to intake manifold (I read that this is under the Intake manifold, but mine was over the top and the PCV Valve was on the drivers side Valve Cover), new air filter, Throttle Body removed and cleaned, and I believe the Coolant Temp Sensor was not plugged in (the plug was tucked away so cleaned both and plugged in). I have read that this motor does not have a Coolant Temp Sensor, but then what sensor is under cylinder 5 below the exhaust manifold. I also have a new Coolant Temp Sensor to install if needed.

The problem still exists as if I did nothing at all to the motor. 2 Codes came up during a scan:

P0430 - Bank 2 CAT Efficiency Below Limit (Probably from the flooding)

P2106 TAC System Forced Limited Power

1 Question...is there a second vacuum line under the intake manifold or a second PCV Valve, I have to be missing something???
 
Yes...they are hard as a rock while the engine is sputtering, but while it is still cold, while driving and then slowing down, the brakes work fine until the rpm's drop to 1000 then they are hard again. whey work great once the car has warmed up.
 
FYI...the scan was done today, but the car had already warmed up. Thinking of buying a code reader that has live engine data and plug it in cold. One other thing...the gas pedal does absolutely nothing if I try to rev the motor, but in drive, it will hesitate a few times and then go, but all symptoms disappear once warm.
 
Alvinpokey said:
Yes...they are hard as a rock while the engine is sputtering, but while it is still cold, while driving and then slowing down, the brakes work fine until the rpm's drop to 1000 then they are hard again. whey work great once the car has warmed up.
Click to expand...

I think you still have a vacuum leak or a bad check valve to the vacuum booster. It could be the booster itself or the plumbing going to it. After engine shutdown, you should still have at least one good full power-assist press of the brakes left. Can you take a picture of the vacuum plumbing to the booster, including the in-line check valve?
 
Taking pics this morning...I know where the vacuum booster is , but not sure where the check valve is located or what it looks like. Is it in the same area?
 
Alvinpokey said:
Taking pics this morning...I know where the vacuum booster is , but not sure where the check valve is located or what it looks like. Is it in the same area?
Click to expand...

It's the plastic thing in the middle of hose 9C490.

48058115.jpg
 
I think you may have led me directly to the issue...Took the pics and discovered that I have 2 rot holes in the booster itself...took a few photos of different hoses and such.
Just have to downsize the pics and will post them
 
After a closer look...the coating was peeling but no holes. I am going to replace the hoses and check valve before replacing the booster. Is there not an easy way to check if I have low vacuum before buying and installing a bunch of parts, just in case they are not the issue, but only a symptom of something. I have checked the web and quite a few LS owners have had this same issue, but no one has posted what the final solution was.
 
@Alvinpokey

Holly F dude, would you do me a huge favor ?


~ Wait until spring, when it starts to warm up outside.

1) go to Canadian tire
2) buy a spray bottle of SPRAY-9
3) cold engine
3) apply SPRAY-9 all over inside of engine compartment
4) let sit for no more then 5 minutes (in the shade)
5) rinse off with garden hose

6) replace cabin filter


* Do not do this while engine is hot or even warm. COLD engine only.



PS: clean engine is a happy engine!
 
You have no idea...lol. Cleaned entire car inside and out in May (yes the motor too) Look online at the new Windsor Bridge Project. There is solid construction for 10 miles (dirt, mud, and now snow and salt) and unfortunately, I have to drive that route 14 times a week for work. So ya it looks nasty I agree, but Ill do another clean and maybe see something I missed before.
 
doesn't take much with a DD in all this winter crap.
 
I finally found the cold weather problem fix. Sorry it took so long to reply but I finally came up with enough time to get my hands dirty. On the back left of the intake manifold, there are 2 round black plastic mechanisms...I don't even know what they are (I'm handy but definitely no mechanic). There is a round O ring seating into the intake for each one. I bought them from the dealer, and replaced them. All of the problems disappeared right away. Hope this helps anyone with the same symptoms.
 
those are tuning valves. the bottom one will s hit oil onto the manifold and possibly the coil thats underneath there (the one closest to the fire wall).

my o rings were shot at about 70 k on an 05
 
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